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Carb Rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I have an '85 GS550L with the weird dual-throat carbs. An exploded diagram may be found here.

http://67.15.65.225/spst/1985 GS550L/06.htm

When I got the bike, I did a cursory carb rebuild. I didn't have new o-rings, and I didn't take the caps off the idle screws to clean under there. I have been having some problems, so it is time to do the job right.

Is there a thread where the collective wisdom of Carb rebuilds has been consolidated? If not, there should be....

I have been in touch with Robert Barr of www.cycleorings.com to put together a set of o-rings for this carb. As soon as they arrive, I'll tear into this project. I'll be taking some pictures of the carb & application of the o-rings for his website.

How does one remove the caps protecting the idle screw? Do you then just throw the plug away, or re-install it after servicing?

Assuming my idle screws are too gummed up to figure out where they are set, does anyone know a baseline setting for this carb? Does anyone have a good write-up talking about how to make these adjustments and also balance the carbs?

I'm worried about damaging the seal on the throttle shaft (#11 in the above diagram). Is there anything I can do to protect it? What kind of dip is recommended?

When I cleaned the carbs before, the mess inside wasn't too bad. I was able to clear all the passages with a fine wire pulled from a stainless wire brush. If I can manually clear the idle passages, I may not need to do a full dip.

I was concerned with doing a dip before because it stripped the paint right away. I'm not worried about it being pretty, but I was afraid the loose paint would get into the carb. Do you just mask it, or is there some other way to protect? What is the standard procedure for re-painting the carbs?

Any other general advice will be appreciated,

Rob
 
So, no need to worry about a chem dip eating away some mysterious hidden-away seal?
 
85 GS550E owner for 19+years:

If theyare really bad, you will just have to dip them. No seal to worry about, dunk away.

I get the plugs out with air, push the nipple of the air gun up to the hole, pull the trigger, and they back right out. Keep them around to put them back in.

Mine were about 1.5 turns from seated. If you are having problems idling, this is your culprit. Clean all the channels really well, and dipping folowed by canned carb clean works best.

Sucks that the paint will disappear, but that is the consequence of the bad carbs. They don't look so bad in aluminum, but spray carb clean is just not powerful enough to do the job.

Once all clean, these carbs work great! they are very touchy to synch, but one you do, you will be very happy how it runs.

Kenny
 
There aren't many ways to own an '85 for 19+ years. I assume you've done it the old fashioned way? Congrats on that.

Thanks for the tips, next time, I may just poke you directly (:

Also, is there an o-ring around the needle valve under the plugs? Any idea what size?

Rob
 
No o-ring that I can remember. You are welcome to ping me anytime with specific questions.

I purchased the bike wrecked (totaled) from my friend less than 3 months old with 1103 miles on it. Bought/traded/worked off/gifted all the parts I needed to make it new again, and it was on the road 4 month after that.

It has been a great steed over the years, I almost sold it, but think I will keep it until the government takes it from me (shade of 2112/red barchetta) or gasoline is no longer produced. I don't ride it much anymore for I purchased an 85 FJ1100 about 2 years ago, and the big bore rush is just too much to give up.

Kenny
 
Well, it turns out that sure enough, #12 on the diagram is a little rubber seal. I've pulled out the ones on the outside of the carb. I assume there is a similar seal on the spring side, but don't really want to disassemble all that stuff.

Assuming there is a seal in the other side, will the carb cleaner not hurt it, or does it just not matter all that much?

Also, wouldn't you know it, there are two o-rings on the ends of #58. You can see them in the pic, but they don't have a separate number. Hopefully I'll find something to fit tomorrow.

Rob
 
You have those strange two bbl carbs. #58 is just a fuel tube you should be able to find something at your auto parts dealer
 
Well, this rebuild has turned into a nightmare. It looked like I was going to need 4 o-rings. In fact, I need at least a dozen.

Getting the plugs out was a real pain. One went rather badly. I ended up damaging the threads for the needle valve under the plug, so then the valve wouldn't come out. I finally got it out, but the needle is destroyed. And the very tip of it is jammed in the hole in the carb.

So, now I need to get the needle tip out of the carb. Any suggestions? Right now, my only ideas are magic, and a really tiny drill bit. Which will probably just get me into even more trouble.

Also, assuming I ever get the tip out of there, I'm going to need a new needle. Anybody know where I can get one? I've got a dial caliper, so I can take measurements if someone can explain how they are sized.

I took a picture of the needle. How can I attach it to a post? Do I have to host it somewhere?

Rob
 
Bummer buddy!

Well....I guess you should start with ebay. These bikes are not "common" anymore so the carbs go relatively cheap. Thus you could have a whole set of spare parts.

Where do you live? If you are close you are more than welcome to come to my house and I would help you get it done. I am located in Spokane, WA.

Parts for these are on the expensive side from Suzuki. You can get the jets and needles & seats aftermarket much cheaper.

Kenny
 
Thanks,

I managed to post a pic of the needle in another thread. I'm in Atlanta, GA, so the trip to WA isn't real likely right now. Thanks for the offer.

I think the one saving grace is that motorcyclecarbs.com is just up the road (albeit a full tank of gas away). I think I'll head up there this afternoon and see what can be done.

Rob
 
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