Careberautor maintenance - Where to get o-rings and such

[Guest]

I sent an email to cycleorings, is there anyone else that sells? I need to get it to Norway, I would like it somewhat urgently (due to the corona virus I have been suspended from work until at least 26th of march). Due to me currently being without sensible work to do it would be great to tinker with the carbeurators.

I understand I need an o-ring set, intake boot o-rings (4? 8?).

My friend said one of the carbs were giving too much gas, which makes it like, make sounds when you let off the throttle. I figure cleaning up the carbss is worthwhile irregardles of his diagnosis, he also offered to help me (he also has abundance of time now).

So Id love to hear who is reputable suppliers, that offer fast shipping to norway.

Also if there is anything else I need. Id also love some good advice about things to think of.

 

[Guest]

I'd stick with cycleorings. He's very good at getting packages sent promptly, he's very fairly priced, the kits have been used by hundreds of members here, and you get everything you need in one package.

You'll need an o-ring kit, 4 intake o-rings, probably some BS carb washers, and maybe some float bowl o-rings.

 

[Guest]

I'd stick with cycleorings. He's very good at getting packages sent promptly, he's very fairly priced, the kits have been used by hundreds of members here, and you get everything you need in one package.

You'll need an o-ring kit, 4 intake o-rings, probably some BS carb washers, and maybe some float bowl o-rings.

The prices seems great.

Is mine CV or VM? Im sorry if this is clueless.

I apprechiate your reply.

 

[Guest]

Should be CV - post a pic of the carbs if you want to be absolutely certain.

 

[bwringer]

Robert the O-Ring King a great guy. He'll take care of you, and Norway should be no problem. He keeps hundreds of sets on hand; they don't take up much room. They should ship right away.

The abbreviation "CV" means constant velocity, a generic term for the general type or style of carbs you have. (CV carbs have vacuum diaphragms)

The specific carb model series used on your bike is the "BS" series. Sometimes you'll see both abbreviations used interchangeably. They're talking about the same carbs, at least on a GS, but they don't mean the same thing. Sorry. We're a little sloppy about that around here.

If your carbs look like this, they are BS series CV style carburetors.

 

[chuck hahn]

Save this place for manuals and tutorials. CV rebuild tutorial on right margin.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

 

[Guest]

I got the carberautor off, I got o-rings from cycleorings.

The screws on the carberator seems to be stuck. Any suggestions on how to not strip the screws?

There seemed to be gas going into the airbox from carb #1, like where the air comes in seemed like, wet with gas?

I am getting them ultrasound cleaned next week.

 

[steve murdoch]

A proper sized JIS/Vessel screwdriver, a bit of penetrating oil, a bit of heat and a bit of patience should work on the carb screws.

 

[bwringer]

There seemed to be gas going into the airbox from carb #1, like where the air comes in seemed like, wet with gas?

This is very common. Many times, the old petcock is corroded inside, and particles of corrosion get into the carbs and hold the needle valves open, which makes the gas overflow.

There's also a thin vacuum diaphragm inside the petcock, and after 20 or 30 years, the rubber cracks and it can suck in fuel through the vacuum line.

In other words, replacing the petcock is almost always part of cleaning the carbs.

 

[Guest]

A proper sized JIS/Vessel screwdriver, a bit of penetrating oil, a bit of heat and a bit of patience should work on the carb screws.

I will look for that kind of screwdriver. WD40 for penetrating oil? Air heat gun for heat? Im assuming it cant get too hot for it?

This is very common. Many times, the old petcock is corroded inside, and particles of corrosion get into the carbs and hold the needle valves open, which makes the gas overflow.

There's also a thin vacuum diaphragm inside the petcock, and after 20 or 30 years, the rubber cracks and it can suck in fuel through the vacuum line.

In other words, replacing the petcock is almost always part of cleaning the carbs.

The petcock is new (maximum a few years old). The tank itself seems to have some rust at the bottom, Im assuming condensation made the bottom water.

Is there any point in replacing the vaccum line? I want a new fuel line and in line fuel filter (looks okay the fuel line, but they cut it ugly).

I assume the petcock is fairly cheap, and if I get a new one I can do the whole rust treatment thing in the tank.

Isnt cleaning the carbs a fairly regular exercise?

The weather has done a sharp turn for the worse, so I appear to have more time to get it all ready.

 

[Redman]

....

The screws on the carberator seems to be stuck. ......

A proper sized JIS/Vessel screwdriver, a bit of penetrating oil, a bit of heat and a bit of patience should work on the carb screws.

Boot screw into the head?
Adjustment setting screw on/in the carb?


FOr the Adjustment setting screw on/in the carb I have had good sucsess on stuck screw with Seafoam DeepCreep penitrating oil.
I don't think WD40 is going to help much.

 

[cowboyup3371]

WD40 is a poor penetrating fluid; better to get something like PB Blaster

 

[bobgroger]

I will look for that kind of screwdriver. WD40 for penetrating oil? Air heat gun for heat? Im assuming it cant get too hot for it?




The petcock is new (maximum a few years old). The tank itself seems to have some rust at the bottom, Im assuming condensation made the bottom water.

Is there any point in replacing the vaccum line? I want a new fuel line and in line fuel filter (looks okay the fuel line, but they cut it ugly).

I assume the petcock is fairly cheap, and if I get a new one I can do the whole rust treatment thing in the tank.

Isnt cleaning the carbs a fairly regular exercise?

The weather has done a sharp turn for the worse, so I appear to have more time to get it all ready.

These carbs sat for 4 months after a cleaning. The bowls were emptied until the engine died. Either drain the bowls completely, or fill with non-ethanol gas.

 

[bwringer]

Isnt cleaning the carbs a fairly regular exercise?

No, not at all. Once you get the carbs clean and working properly, you're done for a few decades. Carb cleaning is not regular maintenance.

I haven't seen the inside of my GS850G's carbs in at least 15 years. Probably a lot longer... I moved to my current house in 2005, and I know it was before that. I removed the float bowls for a look last time I had them off the bike a few years ago for engine work, and everything was fine, with no residue or anything.

1) Ride the damn thing once in a while. This is the most important maintenance you can do for the whole bike, not just the carbs. Seriously, letting a bike sit with gas in the float bowls for more than a few weeks at a time is the absolute worst thing you can do in every way. (For winter storage: full tank of gas, drain the bowls, use gas preservative if it's going to be more than about 4-6 weeks.)

2) If you can't go ride (like engine work that's going to take a while) drain the float bowls BEFORE storage. Not after you suddenly realize you still haven't gotten around to it in six weeks or six months.

3) Ethanol, schmethanol. Dump in whatever 87 octane gasohol brew the corner gas station is selling and GO RIDE. It will be FINE. In most of the US, non-ethanol gas is not available anyway. Ethanol gets 100% the blame for the 90% of damage caused by simple neglect. Even if you can get non-ethanol gas, you will still have a mess if you let the bike sit; it's not magic infinity fluid.

4) If your tank is rusty inside, you MUST fix it or you will have endless problems with your petcock and carbs. The mesh filter on the stock petcock is quite good, but it can still allow fine particles of rust through. External filters are not a solution. Filters with adequate flow are not effective enough, and effective filters restrict flow too much. The POR-15 tank cleaning and epoxy lining kit is excellent, and there are a few other similar brands that work well. I don't know if "Kreem" kits are still being sold, but they NEVER work, and you end up with a hell of a mess in the tank and a lot of wasted money and time.

 

[LAB3]

I don't know if "Kreem" kits are still being sold, but they NEVER work, and you end up with a hell of a mess in the tank and a lot of wasted money and time.

Plenty of Kreem stories from back in the 80's, usually about how you ended up tearing out the carb and cleaning the stuff out of it. That sort of thing tends to happen in a cold rain at 3am.

 

[bwringer]

Plenty of Kreem stories from back in the 80's, usually about how you ended up tearing out the carb and cleaning the stuff out of it. That sort of thing tends to happen in a cold rain at 3am.

Honestly, I sort of assumed that Kreem just had to be out of business. I mean, at some point hasn't everyone heard of this junk and learned to avoid it?

Nope, it's still out there. Amazing. 4.5 rating on Amazon, even.


The same goes for those crappy aftermarket carb and brake kits. They're all dangerous junk, yet still sold through otherwise reputable sources. I don't get it.

 

[Guest]

So I managed to find the right bits, and with slightly more force I was able to take the screws off the carb.

The CV boot/ slide on number one does not move freely like in the other ones. Like the other ones you push up and they bounce down, that one has some resistance. It is also the one that feeds gas towards the airbox. Could this be the cause of the excess gas problem? Like when you let off the gas you hear clackling baning like backfiring.

From the top cover everything looks nice and clean really, a long bouncy spring, and no visible dirt.

I took of the float bowl on one of them and the gasoline was filled with brown/orange particles (rust I pressume?), apart from the sticky googey brown stuff in the bottom it looked pretty good there (like rubbery mud). The brass things looks spotless. I guess this is an indication I have to deal with the gas tank.

I struggle to find the soak kind of carb cleaner and my friend with the ultrasound cleaner seems preoccupied. Can I use the one on a spray can?

When I am done with getting this to run right and the snow melts I am planning on riding it everywhere. But we have long winters, so I need to make sure all the fuel is drained before next winter (we have 4-6 months of snow and ice).

 

[Big T]

The spray can is inadequate, due to the need to soak for a day

Just go "borrow" that ultrasonic

 

[tom203]

The spray can is inadequate, due to the need to soak for a day

Just go "borrow" that ultrasonic

Yes, indeed..and afterwards some steel wool buffing on #1 slide might improve action.