Bingo -- there's your problem.
Unsealed chains are not suited for use in any road-going motorcycle. Their only use these days is on racing dirtbikes where the chain is only expected to last a few hours.
You'll be fine with an o-ring chain.
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Bingo -- there's your problem.
Unsealed chains are not suited for use in any road-going motorcycle. Their only use these days is on racing dirtbikes where the chain is only expected to last a few hours.
You'll be fine with an o-ring chain.
B
bwanna
Guest
It has been used VERY hard, running too tight it MUCH harder on a chain than anything abusive you can do while riding. Many times as much force on the chain than doing burnouts or wheelies or anything else. Same with the bearings in the sprocket carrier and on the countershaft, they cannot take that amount of force for very long, they are not designed for it. There is no reason to, the entire system is designed to have some slack at all times. Learn to adjust the tension correctly before the new chain gets installed, or you will ruin it just as quickly as you have ruined this one. Slack in the chain is good, it is how they are meant to be run. The instant the slack is gone you are doing damage. Don't go there.
The manual calls for 3/4" play. Are you suggesting that it too tight?
Way too tight, either you are measuring it wrong or the book is wrong.
A couple inches is more likely correct.
B
bwanna
Guest
Well I'm confident with my skills... have to admit that I was a little surprised at the specs the manual gave, but decided to follow at least for starters. Considering all that's happened and the discussions, I'll use the old rule of thumb approach... tighten just beyond sloppy slack. Usually this would be about 1.5" top to top
OK, but do it at the tightest spot in the suspension's travel. Really there's no difference until it gets really loose, the chain won't come off or anything until it's crazy loose. It hurts nothing to leave it a little slack in it.
Also you must replace both sprockets at the same time as the chain, even if they don't look worn, or the new chain will fail fairly quickly as well. Good quality steel sprockets. I went through all of this many times when I was young and inexperienced. Never again.
It is so much easier to do things right and only do them once. I'm serious, I have 13,000 miles on one bike and haven't adjusted the chain once, it is still tensioned perfectly. Not easy highway miles either, this bike has been everywhere.
Also you must replace both sprockets at the same time as the chain, even if they don't look worn, or the new chain will fail fairly quickly as well. Good quality steel sprockets. I went through all of this many times when I was young and inexperienced. Never again.
It is so much easier to do things right and only do them once. I'm serious, I have 13,000 miles on one bike and haven't adjusted the chain once, it is still tensioned perfectly. Not easy highway miles either, this bike has been everywhere.
B
bwanna
Guest
G
GateKeeper
Guest
is this the manual you are using ?
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=2370B62DDF9F0C6B%211334&authkey=%21APM7hx6Q2ynLu-A
if so he could be right as per the book....
or the book is off.....
.
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My 550 calls for .8 to 1.2 inches of slack and I have mine set to 1". I won't say it's perfect but I haven't had an issue with it yet.
B
bwanna
Guest
Update:
I installed a JT X-Ring chain and took a real close look at the alignment of the sprockets. While the rear sprocket was parallel with the front sprocket, it appeared that the rear sprocket could be offset. I don't know why, but it seemed like a possibility to these old eyes.
To check it, I installed a washer on the left side of the axle between the spacer and the tensioner to slightly move the hub to the right. After lots of eye checks and measurements, it appeared to remove the original offset. I've been riding with the chain for about 400 miles and the tension is holding strong.
I don't recall a washer being in this location, nor does it appear the manual calls for it. But the chain is much quieter and holding tension well.
So, we'll see!
I installed a JT X-Ring chain and took a real close look at the alignment of the sprockets. While the rear sprocket was parallel with the front sprocket, it appeared that the rear sprocket could be offset. I don't know why, but it seemed like a possibility to these old eyes.
To check it, I installed a washer on the left side of the axle between the spacer and the tensioner to slightly move the hub to the right. After lots of eye checks and measurements, it appeared to remove the original offset. I've been riding with the chain for about 400 miles and the tension is holding strong.
I don't recall a washer being in this location, nor does it appear the manual calls for it. But the chain is much quieter and holding tension well.
So, we'll see!
G
Guest
Guest
Maybe your swingarm is slightly twisted or something? I've never noticed an offset in mine... I'll try to remember to look next time I need to adjust the chain...
Oh, and I have a new chain myself, Esjot O ring.
The last chain (SSS O ring) needed adjusting within the first week and always seemed to stretch.
While I haven't abused the Esjot much so far, it's been on for a few weeks and has exactly the same tension as when I installed it.
Oh, and I have a new chain myself, Esjot O ring.
The last chain (SSS O ring) needed adjusting within the first week and always seemed to stretch.
While I haven't abused the Esjot much so far, it's been on for a few weeks and has exactly the same tension as when I installed it.
