changing REALLY old oil?

[snowbeard]

so this thing has probably sat in it's oil not running since 1999 (last reg date)

I can only assume it's in bad shape, and I just wanted to ask the best way to clean it well and safely? I just changed my fork oil and rinsed it with kerosene, but somehow that doesn't seem like the best idea in our crankcases, it was hard to get it all out for sure..

other idea would be to just buy some really cheap oil for the first change and then change it again after it's run just a short bit?

what do you guys (*and gals :wink: ) think?

 

[Guy]

Dump the oil, run some engine flush in it for a few minutes, then dump the engine flush and the filter.
Replace the oil and filter.

BTW engine flushing agents are mostly kerosene.

 

[earlfor]

Running the engine flush is ok, but dont twist the throttle any more than you need to keep it idling. Kerosene isnt worth squat for lubricating ability.

I would probably drain the old oil and put a new filter and some cheap oil and engine flush in it and let it idle for a few minutes. Then do a normal oil and filter change.

Earl

 

[snowbeard]

so maybe a half and half kerosene and cheap oil would do the trick?

 

[spots25]

Honestly, i would just replace the oil and filter, and call it a day

 

[rphillips]

I'm with spots25, just do a regular oil & filter change. Run it for 500 to 1000 mi. Let the new oil dilute the old oil & wash things out good, then another oil & filter change. Wouldn't use cheap oil, for an engine that has been sitting for a long time, you want the best lubrication you can get, to get to all the parts as quick as possible. How much would be saved on 4 qt. of cheap oil as compared to 4 qt. of good oil????

 

[snowbeard]

I guess I was mostly going to just flush it and drain it, maybe run it for a few minutes kinda thing, possibly around the block, maybe not even that...

guess I'll see how bad it is when I drain it, then decide...

 

[earlfor]

I would feel safe with that.


Earl

so maybe a half and half kerosene and cheap oil would do the trick?

 

[earlfor]

I dont think its going to make any difference what kind of motor oil is used for sitting in the shop and idling for 10 minutes.

Earl

I'm with spots25, just do a regular oil & filter change. Run it for 500 to 1000 mi. Let the new oil dilute the old oil & wash things out good, then another oil & filter change. Wouldn't use cheap oil, for an engine that has been sitting for a long time, you want the best lubrication you can get, to get to all the parts as quick as possible. How much would be saved on 4 qt. of cheap oil as compared to 4 qt. of good oil????

 

[Poot]

I've heard that ATF is pretty good at cleaning things out. maybe thats a less harsh option than kerosene?




POOT

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

DON"T PUT ANYTHING other than oil in the motor or you risk damaging
the clutch

 

[qslim]

Actually, I've used ATF on hundreds of occasions to clean a car engine out before a rebuild. A lot of times we'll get an enging whose oil has 'sludged' due to neglect on the part of the owner, and over the years I have learned that cleaning out all that dark goo during the rebuild is much easier if ATF is run in the crankcase for a few hours of good hot driving prior to the teardown. Never thought about that application for a bike, but the ATF definitely works as a cleaning agent in cars. [/quote]

 

[Anonymous]

I am with the people who said just change it and put in a new filter then do it again in 500. If you just have to do something else, add some rislone which is an aggresive detergent that will tend to clean everything and hold all the guk in suspension so that it will all be removed when you change the oil. The down side of that is that if the engine has megga deposits in it, they could all come loose and overwhelm the oils ability to lubricate. If Rislone was used, one would have to watch the colour of the oil very very regularly until change time. Chances are that it just isnt that bad and an oil change will do. All engine oils nowadays contain detergents anyway, just not in concentrates that approach rislone enriched oil.

 

[earlfor]

I dont know what the result of saturating the clutch linings with ATF would be.

Earl

Actually, I've used ATF on hundreds of occasions to clean a car engine out before a rebuild. A lot of times we'll get an enging whose oil has 'sludged' due to neglect on the part of the owner, and over the years I have learned that cleaning out all that dark goo during the rebuild is much easier if ATF is run in the crankcase for a few hours of good hot driving prior to the teardown. Never thought about that application for a bike, but the ATF definitely works as a cleaning agent in cars.

[/quote]

 

[Jethro]

Oil is made from dinosaurs. It's lasted this long. Change the oil and filter and do it again in 2k miles.

 

[gspaul]

Wouldnt it make the material on the clutch plates swell?

 

[Poot]

Oil is made from dinosaurs. It's lasted this long. Change the oil and filter and do it again in 2k miles.

probably the safest bet. Kerosene or ATF could botch something with clutch, etc.

 

[FTGRET]

When I was riding trials, a lot of used ATF in the tranmissions (2 stroke engines) and never had any problems with the clutches.

 

[BigMattyD]

Oil is made from dinosaurs. It's lasted this long. Change the oil and filter and do it again in 2k miles.

I agree with this statement. I just took apart a 450 engine off a bike that was last inspected in 1995. The oil was dark in color, but the engine was very clean inside. I know the engine hadn't run in quite some time, as the fuel tank was disconnected, and many parts had already been taken off. Igniter, etc.

Matt

 

[snowbeard]

well, the oil itself appeared dark, but still slightly clear.

bad part was there were streaks of dark in the primary drive gear oil, but it was nicely clear.

I think the owner did alot to try to solve the running issues, which at this point I've found to be the coils, the rear shocks, and the carbeurator boots from the airbox. but the oil looks like it was at least changed recently.

I'll do it again once I've actually had it moving a few miles, could still be a bit. without the boots, it bogs horribly and can barely take throttle. course there's so much "not quite" together with it at this point I can hardly blame 'er!!

thanks for the advice!!!