Clutch Actuator

[Guest]

So, in the ongoing adventure fixing a 1981 GS450, I have been busy with the clutch actuator.
The clutch arm is broken and some previous "fixing" has been attempted. Unfortunately the arm at this point has play in it and I think it would fail at some point.
I don't know if trying to weld it to the actuator worm gear would be advisable, but perhaps someone can provide a little more clarity, from the pictures provided.
If not, does anyone know of handy dandy replacements that would fit in. I will spend some time now x-referencing part numbers, but there's probably someone who's done this before.

 

[Guest]

Not sure if it is clear from the pic, but around the attachment of the arm there is some spot welding (perhaps more spatter welding) holding things together. There is a crack where the arm has separated.

 

[LAB3]

As with anything else the quality of a repair is dependent on the skill of the person who performed it. Welding that looks like cottage cheese doesn't inspire a whole lot of confidence!

A quick eBay search for "gs450 clutch actuator" shows a few of them available in the $20-30 range. Guess it's a matter of how well you trust what you have now vs spending what it takes to replace it. It would be a toss up for me.

 

[Guest]

It's hard to imagine what would break that; my guess is that someone botched a shortening job or a modification of a somewhat different arm.

Back when, I recall hearing that the mechanism from a GS500 will fit - no surprise - and it has a ball ramp rather than the plastic spiral that tends to crumble over time. That's what I plan to get if mine ever finally dies. May not be any more expensive used as I don't think they ever wore out. The one from an SV650 looks the same but is clocked differently.

Not having actually done it, I'm not going to vouch for the swap, but I think it's been reported on somewhere.

The crude looking self tapping screws that hold it in are OEM, not a kludge...

 

[Nessism]

I'd remove the helix and find someone that knows how to weld to fix it.

 

[LAB3]

I'd remove the helix and find someone that knows how to weld to fix it.

Good idea depending on who you know.
If you have a buddy with a grinder and welder who would be willing to do it then it's probably worth doing. If you need to take it to a welding shop you're not going to get it done for less than 1/2 hour labor, in which case you're better off getting a used one and be done with it.

 

[Guest]

yeah, I have zero confidence in the spotty welding holding anything together. Will probably be sufficient whilst the engine is in pieces, but definitely won't rely on it to actually go anywhere. Reckon I'll try to find a replacement for it. In the meantime I'll lean on some friends for a little help, see if we can do something with it. Thanks for the suggestions, maybe the sv650 version could be a solution

 

[Guest]

yeah, I have zero confidence in the spotty welding holding anything together. Will probably be sufficient whilst the engine is in pieces, but definitely won't rely on it to actually go anywhere. Reckon I'll try to find a replacement for it. In the meantime I'll lean on some friends for a little help, see if we can do something with it. Thanks for the suggestions, maybe the sv650 version could be a solution

The SV 650 one doesn't fit; well it goes in, but the screw holes relationship to the arm is way off. I have one and would be using it if I could.

The GS500 is likely a drop in - you need the whole assembly - but I'd search and google a bit before pulling the trigger on one. The original 400/450 one is pretty common used. If you get totally stuck I probably have one around somewhere but it's going to cost more to ship halfway round the world than at a salvage over there.

 

[bwringer]

That's a really weird failure, and an awful repair attempt.

Find another assembly. This is not a common failure at all (I can't really even imagine how this happened, other than someone ignorantly bent and broke the thing in frustration while trying to replace a cable or something), so pretty much any used example should be fine.

This is one of those safety-critical items; if the arm bends or snaps at an inopportune time, the consequences could be deadly.

 

[GregT]

I've seen loose arms before. The hole in the arm is a flat sided oval. It fits over a protrusion on the helix center which is then swaged over.
The swaged piece is quite light gauge and can work loose.
I've usually been able to salvage it by lightly peening the swaged area back down. Never tried welding it.

Good replacements should be common.

As an aside I grafted a 450 mechanism into a CB350 Honda sidecover for a race engine. The OE Honda 3-ball ramping setup is horrible with a beefed-up clutch.

 

[Guest]

thanks for all the tips and suggestions guys. I actually went through the whole thing and cleaned it out, but that arm was bothering me. Given the rubber seal was cracked I figured best to get a replacement if possible.
Found a new old stock item on ebay, and have ordered that. So that should be good to do whenever it arrives