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Clutch disengagement issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter brettule
  • Start date Start date
B

brettule

Guest
I've got a '79 GS400 and the clutch has been fine for the past 6 months. I've just recently noticed an odd problem with the clutch.

With the clutch lever pulled all the way in and a gear selected I start the bike but the bike act's like the clutch isn't fully disengaged because there is a slight amount of drive wanting to move the bike forward. I can easily hold the bike back with my feet on the ground but you can feel it wanting to move and dropping the revs. If I ride for a bit it sorts itself out and the clutch feels fully disengaged when I pull the lever in but next time I go to start the engine the symptoms come back. The cable is only a few months old and I've adjusted it so there is no slack in the cable so I presume I'm getting enough throw to disengage the clutch plate.

Any ideas?
 
Yes back the clutch cable all the way back in so you have a slack , then adjust the clutch properly with the helix. Then you can fine tune with the cable adjustment.Your new cable is just stretching and seating it self.
 
The cable is only a few months old and I've adjusted it so there is no slack in the cable so I presume I'm getting enough throw to disengage the clutch plate.

Another more sinister idea is that without any slack or freeplay in the cable the clutch has been slipping, if it slips too much it burns, plates get warped, the clutch will then act exactly as you are describing.

Hopefully that's not the problem, but whatever it is, when you do figure it out make sure the cable has the proper amount of free play.
 
OK, aparently your Aussie models were different that ours. We only had a 425 in 1979, it had a helix type clutch release built into the countershaft cover. On your bike, where does the clutch cable go into the engine case?
 
I'm getting ready to install my new clutch cable...looking at my Clymer Manual...how bout OP post some pics?


Ed
 
grabby clutch.

grabby clutch.

Too thick or just cold engine oil. because it gets better when hot. normal

improper adjustment (cable or helix) effects inner air gap and will get better and worse with various adjustment settings. no difference hot or cold - if it disconnects power ok,,,, if not - not ok

warped plates -- can't hold bike back / shutters at friction point - damage already done. no difference hot or cold , no difference in adjustment settings.



Constant mesh will always have a little pull thru the driveline. as long as you can easily stop the rolling you are in the normal zone. the oil always has drag - sometimes more .
 
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