Clutch Kit

[FlyingSteve]

I need to replace the clutch on my 80 550E. EBC sells a set of friction plates for a good price, but I need the steel plates as well, right? Or are they usually good to be re-used? If I can't re-use them, is my only option for replacement of the steel plates through Suzuki OEM?

Anyone here have part #'s for aftermarket sets of friction plates (and/or steel plates)??

 

[Baatfam]

Are you sure you need new clutch fibers? You need to measure them to be sure.
If you do, OEM Suzuki are your best bet.
The steels should be OK as long as they are flat/straight. Just clean them up.
If your clutch is slipping, or even if it isn't, I'd give the springs a good eyeball...they are more likely to be the cause of any problems.

 

[FlyingSteve]

The clutch is slipping. When the engine gets up to around 4K RPM and I hit the powerband, the rev's shoot up and the speed doesn't match... If I let off the throttle a little then I can get the clutch to grab and bring the speed up. I was wondering if it was the springs instead... All I know right now is there is definitely a slip going on, whether it is the friction plates or hopefully just the springs!

Do you happen to know off-hand what the thickness of the friction plates should be?

 

[salty_monk]

Approx 3mm. I think the service limit is about 2.6mm. It's rare to find worn out friction plates but even the aftermarket (except Barnett) seem to be ok from reports here.

With the steels, clean them up, scuff them with some coarse wet & dry & put them back in. There is a service limit for those in the manual as well but I have never seen one anywhere near it's limit.

For springs I would recommend either replace all with new stock springs or get yourself some aftermarket ones from EBC, these are uprated but if you use all of them the lever gets too hard, most people use 50% with 50% stock (alternate them so you get even pressure on the plates)

99 times out of 100 the springs are the culprit.

Dan

 

[tkent02]

And 99 out of 100 times new stock springs are plenty, unless you're drag racing a hipo motor.

 

[salty_monk]

100% right. If you're short on cash using 50% aftermarket with what you have now is a slightly cheaper option but there's only a couple of gallons of gas in it....

 

[FlyingSteve]

Sweeeeeet! I'm so glad to hear you guys saying what you are telling me! I thought that it was strange that the friction plates were going bad all of a sudden. One day fine, the next slipping? Weird. And I know that since the clutch assembly is bathed in oil, it doesn't wear out nearly as fast as an automobile clutch. I am heading to the dealership now to get some other stuff so I'll order some springs whilst I am there!

 

[Baatfam]

One other thought...what oil are you running? Did you just change it?

 

[koolaid_kid]

When you go to clean the plates, get a piece of sheet glass. Lay the w/n/d sandpaper on that, and sand it that way. When I was a broke 17 year old, I actually put a washer on the springs to stiffen them up. It worked, at least on a 1967 T200.
For my GPz, I went aftermarket, cheaper and stronger. I also read about the 50% rule, but mine are good at 100% aftermarket.

 

[FlyingSteve]

Ya, I just changed the oil and filter and I used 1qt of 20w-50 and then the rest was topped off with a 5w-30. I got a gallon jug of the 5w-30 so I could use it in my car too lol. Think that could be the issue? Either way I ordered a set of new Suzuki OEM springs at the dealership today, they were only $1.67/ea

Oh and the oil is regular ol' dinosaur juice, not synthetic.

 

[Baatfam]

Ya, I just changed the oil and filter and I used 1qt of 20w-50 and then the rest was topped off with a 5w-30. I got a gallon jug of the 5w-30 so I could use it in my car too lol. Think that could be the issue? Either way I ordered a set of new Suzuki OEM springs at the dealership today, they were only $1.67/ea

Oh and the oil is regular ol' dinosaur juice, not synthetic.

Check the oil and make sure it is not "Energy Conserving"...
That stuff is just for cars and has friction modifiers or something in it that is not good for motorcycle clutches...

Do a search on oil or someone who knows the details can chime in...

You need something OK to use in motorcycles which is generally motorcycle oil or diesel oil.
I use Rotella...

Since you just changed the oil...it may be the issue.
But changing the springs is still a good idea...

 

[FlyingSteve]

What weight of that Rotella? I've seen it at the auto store before but I obviously never looked at it. If you are saying it's good stuff to use, then let me know exactly what you get and I'll use that.

Something else weird happened today... When I started the bike and put it into first, it started to pull forward... With the clutch pulled all the way in. Then after I rev'd it a little bit, it stopped doing it.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Sounds like you've got some sticky clutch plates. A disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly should work great along with your new springs.

You want the Rotella-T 15w40 Heavy Duty oil (it's for diesel engines). It's got more zinc and phosphorous and junk our old bike engines just love.

About $12 a gallon.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[FlyingSteve]

Good deal. Thanks for the help guys! As soon as I get the new springs I will break this all down and clean it up, measure my friction plates, scuff the steel plates up! I'll pick the Rotella-T up tonight and change the oil out with that stuff tomorrow before I take the bike to my buddies machine shop to work on other issues... I'll let you guys know if it feels any better with just the oil change. I know that the previous n00b owner was using some regular old pennzoil.

BassCliff, you are right about the minerals and stuff for the older engines. They weren't designed for the newer oils... Or should I say the newer oils aren't designed for the older engines? lol