Clutch Problems

[gixerbike1]

The Brown truck brought me some goodies today.

The progressive fork Springs:dancing:, MAN what a difference.

The other item was EBC clutch springs.

Dang, what a difference, now my bike won't disengage the trans when the

Clutch is pulled in.

I tried the adjuster at the bars and on the engine end of the cable and nothing helps at all.

The friction's were on the thin side but did have material on them, I'm just wondering if by putting the stiffer springs in if there's just not enough clutch material left to handle the extra load?

Any thoughts or assistance would be greatly appreciated as i'd like to actually ride this bike instead of working on it.

Thanks,

Tommy

 

[Steve]

What bike you talking about?

There are different suggestions that would be based on what bike you are working on.

I am not going to list them all, so give us a clue, if you will.

.

 

[Big T]

Steve's a bit grumpy, but he has a point

UPDATE YOUR PROFILE with your location and bike!


And yes, it is the springs - why did you replace them?

Swap 3 of them back to stock and see what happens

 

[gixerbike1]

This one steve my man

This one steve my man

 

[gixerbike1]

This one steve my man

This one steve my man

The GS650E

Bit T, I replaced the springs because when i took her out for a spin and rolled into the throttle getting onto the interstate the clutch slipped at 7K.

I still have the old Springs, but they are DONE, like stick a fork in 'em DONE...LOL.

 

[blowerbike]

after market plates and stock springs will work most the time.
try it.

i thought you bought a clutch pack.
try 3 and 3 on the springs.
also...
if your worm gear is out of adjustment your clutch can slip.
maybe you didn't need springs?

ok one more edit.
scratch the worm gear part because your model has a ratchet type mechanism.
try 3 stock-3 EBC springs...

 

[Guest]

Try a diferent position on the lever where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch pinion gear.
Hint right above the clutch cover.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. gixerbike1,

In the upper left corner of your forum screen, click "User CP". That stands for 'User Control Panel'.

Then in the left margin under "Settings and Options" click "Edit Signature". Put your motorcycle information in there, year and model.

If you like, then under "Your Profile" you can click on "Edit Your Details" and fill in your location and any other personal information you'd like to share. There may be a member close to you who might be able to help in person.

With this information the members here can more easily assist you without your having to type your bike or your location in every post.

EDIT: Oops, I see you're in Virginia. Never mind about the location part.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[paco13]

I don't think its the springs. No matter how strong they are, If you can squeeze they lever to the bar and it doesn't disengage you have other issues. Like Chef said, Check where you have the realease arm positioned on the mechanism.
Or if that model has the push rod type that goes through the case something is out with that.

 

[gixerbike1]

Release arm position

Release arm position

Hey Paco13,

I've tried adjusting the position of the release arm, both all the way out and all the way in, no help.

This is my setup.

I'm at a loss, so i ordered new steels from Z1, got 'em for $1.50 each and I got a set of frictions on Ebay for $40.00 shipped.

I'll try messing with it some more today, Now one thing I'm not clear on and I hope someone can clear it up for me.

Number 18 in that diagram, which position is it supposed to be in when the position arm is connected to the pinion shaft # 24 ?

I set it all the way against the clutch basket and then placed the position arm on and locked it down, was that incorrect?

 

[TheCafeKid]

Part 18 should pretty much lock into part 24 more or less. If its not possitioned right you wont be able to get the clutch cover back on. But, since you've changed everything around in there, assuming, where is #25 relative to a clock dial? Maybe you could take a pic of that for us? If its too far inboard, no matter what you do, or adjust, you'll never get the clutch to engage/disengage (i can never remember, is pulling the lever engaging it? or disengaging it?? LOL)

 

[hampshirehog]

All you have to do with the top hat (#18) is make sure that it faces the right way round to engage with the pinion shaft #24. It's real easy to miss it - I'm the world's worst for forgetting to line it up. You of course don't get any clutch release when you get it wrong.

 

[gixerbike1]

pics. sure i can

pics. sure i can

I'll pull her down again to show you guys what i have and how i've lined everything up so you can see if i'm doing something wrong or i'm just being a blockhead..:lol:

Tommy

 

[gixerbike1]

pics of clutch mechanism

pics of clutch mechanism

O.K. Guys,

I pulled the cover off again to make sure i had everything lined up properly.

Here are the pic's:

Clutch cover:

Clutch Release bar:

I made sure the release rod (#18 ) was situated so the teeth would line up with the teeth on part #24 inside the clutch cover.

I put the clutch cover back on, then the adjuster, removed the oil fill cap and pulled the clutch in, with a flashlight I can see the clutch being disengaged and it has plenty of movement.

when my friend removed the clutch fibers to measure them with vernier calipers, does it matter what order they go back in?

The manual doesn't say and no one i've spoken with around town can give me a definitive answer.

Any other ideas ?

Tommy

 

[TheCafeKid]

O.K. Guys,

I pulled the cover off again to make sure i had everything lined up properly.

Here are the pic's:

Clutch cover:

Clutch Release bar:

I made sure the release rod (#18 ) was situated so the teeth would line up with the teeth on part #24 inside the clutch cover.

I put the clutch cover back on, then the adjuster, removed the oil fill cap and pulled the clutch in, with a flashlight I can see the clutch being disengaged and it has plenty of movement.

when my friend removed the clutch fibers to measure them with vernier calipers, does it matter what order they go back in?

The manual doesn't say and no one i've spoken with around town can give me a definitive answer.

Any other ideas ?

Tommy

Yeah! Where is part #25 in the fiche like i asked to see?? That stuff looks all in good order, but the relation of that throw out arm is very important. If you put it right back where it was before you changed things, its probably NOT RIGHT. As those springs/clutch cables wear out, or are replaced, people move that thing, and sometimes it works fine for what they have, then you change things (springs, cable, etc) and then it doesnt work.. PLEASE, take a picture of where the arm (#25) in the fish is positioned when you put it back together...

 

[Rick65Cat]

O.K. Guys,

I pulled the cover off again to make sure i had everything lined up properly.

Here are the pic's:

Clutch cover:

Clutch Release bar:

I made sure the release rod (#18 ) was situated so the teeth would line up with the teeth on part #24 inside the clutch cover.

I put the clutch cover back on, then the adjuster, removed the oil fill cap and pulled the clutch in, with a flashlight I can see the clutch being disengaged and it has plenty of movement.

when my friend removed the clutch fibers to measure them with vernier calipers, does it matter what order they go back in?

The manual doesn't say and no one i've spoken with around town can give me a definitive answer.

Any other ideas ?

Tommy

It doesn't make any difference when you are re-installing the fiber plates as to the order. Just be sure they alternate with the steel plates..steel fiber steel fiber etc.
I can't remember how many of each there is either. there IS a sequence...just dunno which goes on first, steel or fiber.

 

[gixerbike1]

order

order

Hey Rick,

Yeah, I followed the correct order, Fiber goes in first and is the last to go in as well.

Thanks.

Tommy

 

[Turtleface]

Hey Rick,

Yeah, I followed the correct order, Fiber goes in first and is the last to go in as well.

Thanks.

Tommy

First in is the steel, according to your part's fiche. First steel holds in the wave washer (#11) and the wave washer seat (#9), and is held in by that little piece of piano wire. (#10)

 

[paco13]

Ok just checking but you see good movement through the oil fill, Did you start it and try it? does it still no engage?
If you can see the plates seperating through the oil whole, and it still doesn't disengage, then you have something bound up. Shaft or bearing, maybe missing thrust washer.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Gixerbike, Please listen to me. Part number 25 on your fiche, the throwout arm, is what spins the shaft to disengage the clutch. If you dont have the throwout rotated far enough, the shaft will not disengage the clutch all the way. Its a wet system. Oil between the plates will still cause grab. The throwout is actually pretty far, so even if you see it move some, it may not be enough. Try moving the throwout arm a couple splines counter clockwise and see if it helps. If it doesnt, I will shut up, but you just cant put it together in the same place it came apart because new springs mean more resistance, which means the spot where it was before may not be enough "pull"..