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Clutch Slip

salty_monk

salty_monk

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
Seem to be getting a bit on the GS1000G but only when I nail it say in 2nd or 3rd (over 5,000 rpm, it's fine till it gets there slips from maybe 5k to 7k then fine again). Today I got some when I nailed it in 3rd up a hill to get in front of some traffic (I probably should have been in 2nd so more stress on the clutch).

The clutch works pretty good otherwise & seems to be in pretty good adjustment (as to what the manual says about the lever anyway). Is this a clue that it's on it's way out or just out of adjustment?? Any tests I can do or adjustments I can make to see if it makes a difference?

Normal driving it's fine, it stalls if I don't give it enough beans pulling away never slips unless I really nail it (doesn't do it every time either). High revs built up more gradually are not a problem.

I changed oil recently GTX 10-40w but I got this before that although it has made the gear change a bit slicker.

Dan :)
 
New clutch disc's and springs should do ya up fine. It's about a 1.5 hr job with the most time spent scrapping the old gasket off.
 
Dunno about the thou's but the 1100's tend to do it when they are cold but settle down when up to normal operating temp.
 
salty_monk said:
Seem to be getting a bit on the GS1000G but only when I nail it say in 2nd or 3rd (over 5,000 rpm, it's fine till it gets there slips from maybe 5k to 7k then fine again). Today I got some when I nailed it in 3rd up a hill to get in front of some traffic (I probably should have been in 2nd so more stress on the clutch).

The clutch works pretty good otherwise & seems to be in pretty good adjustment (as to what the manual says about the lever anyway). Is this a clue that it's on it's way out or just out of adjustment?? Any tests I can do or adjustments I can make to see if it makes a difference?

Normal driving it's fine, it stalls if I don't give it enough beans pulling away never slips unless I really nail it (doesn't do it every time either). High revs built up more gradually are not a problem.

I changed oil recently GTX 10-40w but I got this before that although it has made the gear change a bit slicker.

Dan :)
Click to expand...

My 1100 did almost the same behavior. Mine ended up being worn out clutch springs. It's very common for 25 year old clutch springs to become "laxed" meaning they loose some of their free hight as compared to new. Slap in a new set of springs, and I am willing to bet you are good to go
 
Over the last few years I have had both a 750 and an 1100 with clutch slippage. On one bike I replaced just the springs on the other I replaced the discs and the springs. I found replacing the springs to be an equally thorough repair and less troublesome than replacing discs and springs. Needless to say replacing just the springs was quite a bit cheaper.
 
Add me to the list of spring enthusiasts...

The clutch plates last dang near forever. Order up a clutch cover gasket and six OEM springs, and you'll be back on the road and happy about 20 minutes after they arrive.

I've checked several pairs of original GS clutch springs, and they've all been sagged far below the use limits in the manual after being squashed for 25 years. Heavy-duty springs are not necessary -- just new ones.
 
bwringer said:
Add me to the list of spring enthusiasts...

The clutch plates last dang near forever. Order up a clutch cover gasket and six OEM springs, and you'll be back on the road and happy about 20 minutes after they arrive.

I've checked several pairs of original GS clutch springs, and they've all been sagged far below the use limits in the manual after being squashed for 25 years. Heavy-duty springs are not necessary -- just new ones.
Click to expand...

When I compared the free height of new OE springs, vs. 25 year old springs there was a difference of .250". In hindsight, I didn't need to replace my drive plates either, but I already had bought a set of Barnett plates, so I just put them in anyway. Some FYI, I also needed to replace the large bronze thrust washer behind the clutch basket, the washer was worn down in thickness about .019" compared to the new one, which caused my clutch basket to have excessive wobble.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info sounds like new springs are in order at next oil change.

When I'm in there is there an easy way to check the plates to see their condition?? (with a car you can check how close it is to the rivet heads for example).

Will the thrust washer be easily visible at this point too? I have a set of digital vernier so measuring heights etc should not be a problem.

Cheers,

Dan
 
Check the lower clutch adjustment too...

Check the lower clutch adjustment too...

I think on your bike there is a lower adjustment??

Maybe not on the 1000...

If there is and if it is a bit tight it will cause slippage and eventually wear out the plates.
 
you could take out one clutch disk and check its width with a caliper. Check your owners manual for the correct spec for the disk
 
You don't even have to drain your oil. I just put the bike on the side stand and you'll only drip a few drops.
 
Ok, maybe it'll get done a bit sooner then... Bikebandit.com for OE springs??

Dan :)
 
bwringer said:
Add me to the list of spring enthusiasts...

The clutch plates last dang near forever. Order up a clutch cover gasket and six OEM springs, and you'll be back on the road and happy about 20 minutes after they arrive.

I've checked several pairs of original GS clutch springs, and they've all been sagged far below the use limits in the manual after being squashed for 25 years. Heavy-duty springs are not necessary -- just new ones.
Click to expand...

20 mins eh? Sounds good to me.

Pardon my asking, but I've just started to work on bikes recently:
Would I need to set the timing up again after changing the springs in my clutch?

Thanks,
Arf
 
Arfdog said:
20 mins eh? Sounds good to me.

Pardon my asking, but I've just started to work on bikes recently:
Would I need to set the timing up again after changing the springs in my clutch?

Thanks,
Arf
Click to expand...

No you wont.

Dink
 
It really was pretty simple. Hardest bit was getting the bolts out of the cover... If I hadn't have been able to re-use the gasket the 2nd hardest bit would prob have been cleaning the face!!

Dan :)
 
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