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Clutch Spring Replacement

salty_monk

salty_monk

Forum Guru
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
Well springs turned up from Z1 - EBC branded, look ok.

Looking through the Clymer seems there is a gasket on the casing, I thought it would be two aluminium mating faces so didn't order one... Can I get away with re-using the old one or is that a definite "no-no"??

If so I'm going to wait till I've got it apart so I can check the plates too.... "just in case".

Anything else I might need that I've overlooked?

Planning on just doing it on the sidestand rather than draining the fresh oil that's in there.

Dan :)
 
I changed my clutch discs a few months ago and put the old gasket right back on with no leaks. I would say if it tears when you take the cover off, get a new gasket, If its intact, I would say use it.
 
Thanks mate, that's what I thought might be the case. No big deal to change it later if a leak develops, gasket usually either seal for life or not at all in my experience. :D
 
Clutch

Clutch

salty_monk said:
Thanks mate, that's what I thought might be the case. No big deal to change it later if a leak develops, gasket usually either seal for life or not at all in my experience. :D
Click to expand...


If i was in there ill be checking the tightness of the clutch nut. Cotton buds to clean the oil level window? If you take the plates out to see if there flat (lay on glass) dont disturb the order or the way they came out. The steel plates are "stamped" so have a rounded edge on one side. If you have use of a bead blaster thats a good option or some sand paper (120 grit) to roughen the steel plates. When u replace the cover make sure the bolt in the pic isnt too long as it will touch the clutch housing, also a tool i made using a old clutch plate with a long handle to butt against the footpeg to stop it turning when doing up the clutch nutwhen no rattle gun available.

GS100014-01-2007001.jpg
,
GS100014-01-2007002.jpg
 
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Thanks mate, not planning to go that far, just whip the cover off, 6 bolts out, have a look at the plates & replace the springs if the plates are in reasonable shape then button it all back up.

Everything is working fine, just a bit of slip in high torque low gear situations so hopefully this will sort that out.

I saw the tool like that in the Clymer, I've got no chance of fabbing one over here even if I was going that far :( all my welding gear is in the UK.

Thanks again for the mag articles.

Dan :)
 
Well the deed was done today or at least finished... EBC springs from Z1 Enterprises.

The old springs were still within spec on free length (all coming in as 39 ish) but also had more coils than the replacements & the replacements were noticeably stiffer by hand. Bad thing is that less coils on the new ones means they will go soft quicker than the old ones....

Image019.jpg


Checked out the drive & driven plates - both were right in the middle of what Clymer gave as acceptable so I guess they are only half worn out then... :D

Release bearing looked in very good condition too.

Managed to re-use the gasket. Everything is in amazing condition on this bike considering it's age & mileage. High mileage is not always a bad thing. It's done a lot of freeway work but been well looked after.

Out of interest does anyone else have a spring on the end of the clutch cable where my finger's pointing in the picture? Doesn't seem to be original fit to me but if not then I don't know how the hell he got it on there...

Image020.jpg


No time to test for clutch slip yet, just a quick run up the road, it's definitely harder to pull but also seems to have a little bit more "feel" to it too.

Why does my release plate have 9 holes in it? The photo in the Clymer doesn't show that, it's solid. Just interested to see if it's for oil flow or?? (is it the GS version of a lightened flywheel ;) )

Dan
 
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salty_monk said:
Thanks mate, not planning to go that far, just whip the cover off, 6 bolts out, have a look at the plates & replace the springs if the plates are in reasonable shape then button it all back up.

Everything is working fine, just a bit of slip in high torque low gear situations so hopefully this will sort that out.

I saw the tool like that in the Clymer, I've got no chance of fabbing one over here even if I was going that far :( all my welding gear is in the UK.

Thanks again for the mag articles.

Dan :)
Click to expand...

A few tips. When draining the engine oil and servicing your clutch, lean the bike hard over the the left and set the left handlebar up against a wall. You will be able to remove the clutch cover without draining the oil. Lastly you don't need a special tool to hold the clutch basket to remove the large primary nut. I wedged a 2X2X20" long board between the rear wheel casted spokes, and let the board rest on the swingarm. Put the bike in 1st gear, and now everything is locked, allowing you to remove the nut.
 
Out for a test run this morning, everything working fine, no clutch slip. Lever is a bit heavier but manageable even for my small fingers.

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
Out for a test run this morning, everything working fine, no clutch slip. Lever is a bit heavier but manageable even for my small fingers.

Dan :)
Click to expand...

hopefully you won't ever get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic...... that's when you appreciate an OEM SOFT pulling clutch.
 
Road_Clam said:
hopefully you won't ever get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic...... that's when you appreciate an OEM SOFT pulling clutch.
Click to expand...
Yeah buddy !! I lasted about a day with the Barnett springs. Went back to the orig springs and there still in there today.
 
Road_Clam said:
hopefully you won't ever get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic...... that's when you appreciate an OEM SOFT pulling clutch.
Click to expand...

You reckon... living in LA??? :-D

It seems ok so far, the clutch slip has disappeared & the lever is not that heavy. Also it seems to have more feel & it's easier to make a smooth shift.

I thought I was going to be getting OE springs but Z1 sent me the EBC branded ones. They were less than half the price though.

It's good arm exercise... :D

I'll see how it goes, it was a simple job so I can always try 3 new & 3 old or get a set of new OE springs in the future.

Dan :)
 
I have some Vance and Hines heavy duty clutch springs for you iron hand:wink:
 
I'll pick them up in Yosemite ;) :D

You'll know me... I'll be the small guy with the big left arm :lol:
 
Road_Clam said:
A few tips. When draining the engine oil and servicing your clutch, lean the bike hard over the the left and set the left handlebar up against a wall. You will be able to remove the clutch cover without draining the oil. Lastly you don't need a special tool to hold the clutch basket to remove the large primary nut. I wedged a 2X2X20" long board between the rear wheel casted spokes, and let the board rest on the swingarm. Put the bike in 1st gear, and now everything is locked, allowing you to remove the nut.
Click to expand...

I plan to replace my springs on the GS450 later this week. Do you think the leaning trick will work for my bike too? How far do you have to lean it, like 45 degrees?

Thanks,
Arf
 
Put a pan underneath with some carboard under that, you will lose a few drops & it's not very "directional".

Dan :)
 
For the benefit of anyone reading this thread that is experienceing clutch problems and about to change springs/plates like I was, perhaps you needn't do it: Read on...

Problem A: Clutch slips above 7000rpm in higher gears. I thought recently changed synthetic oil was the problem, replaced it with mineral oil, no luck. Then I thought weak springs or eroded plates, read this thread, and was about to open my clutch housing and get to work... Before I did so, I very luckily opened up the housing on the other sideof the bike and inspected the pushrod. It was caked with crap thrown off from the chain, and was a little ground away. I cleaned it and smoothed it off and replaced the pushrod. This fixed the slippage problem completely..

Problem B: Clunky gearchanges, impossible to find neutral when bike is running and I am on it. Neutral could easily be found when bike is on cantre stand and rear wheel is in the air, or when I am on the bike and the engine is not running. I thought: dragging clutch, bent plates or something to that effect. On advice of a friend, I tie wrapped the clutch lever pulled tight up to the bars for the whole night. In the morning, neutral was exactly where it should be, and whats more, the clunky changes are no longer - gear changes in any gear, at any speed, are smooth, effortless, and quiet!!

Just thought I'd share that.. I am smiling today.
Arf
 
For extra insurance, roll your front & rear tires, up on a piece of 2X6 or 2X8 board, before leaning it on the sidestand, bike will lean much farther & you won't need to worry about oil pouring out when the cover comes off.
 
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