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Clutch stuck?

  • Thread starter Thread starter snyderman
  • Start date Start date
S

snyderman

Guest
This is my first post, as I just hauled home a 1978 gs 750 last night. It has not ran since 1995. It seems to be stuck in gear. The back tire rotates a little, then locks up. The clutch lever will not budge. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to proceed.

Mike
 
It sounds like the clutch cable is stuck -- very common on bikes that sit.

Fortunately, clutch cables are relatively cheap. :D

Did you get the big old welcome from Basscliff yet? Somewhere in there is a checklist of all the other stuff you'll need to do.
 
Before you do anything take the spark plugs out and spray some WD40 down the holes and turn the engine over but hand using a 19mm spanner on the right hand end of the crank. (behind the points cover) Check oil, spark and compression(stick finger over plug holes) then install new plugs and start your new toy hopefully. If clutch cable ok you might have to rock the bike back and forth with it in gear. Failing that take cover off and undo the 6 bolts holding the clutch together to check the plates. Put everything back in place EXACTLY. see how you go now. enjoy
 
Thanks to both of you. I will try what you suggested and report back. I am in this for the long haul. I signed on for an adventure, not just a vehicle. I have no doubt that I will need a lot of help with this project. I did find the link to Basscliff. looks like an awesome resource, and still just a part of everything that is available on and through The GSResource.com! Thanks for a truly great source of knowledge and support!

Mike
 
Proabable issue is a corroded siezed clutch cable. Second probable cause is "fused" clutch plates. Disconnect the clutch cable at the arm on the engine and isolate which component is bad.
 
Hey welcome to our little Nuthouse! Always like to see another MN rider, even if you may be from way down south, there's a lot of rural MN (won't hold that against you, there are others in your predicament:D). BassCliff will be giving you a mega welcome shortly, even though you've found his page already it sounds like. Have fun getting that bike back on the road, it's only been sitting and seizing up since '95? Guess that makes 16 years od NO mileage....:D
 
I live in Stacy, so there is a lot of MN below me.
Here is my new time/money pig:
View attachment 13129
It was listed on Craig's list for $250, I got it for$200. I have a Clymer manual coming, I will keep spraying Deep Creep and gently persuading these allegedly "moving parts". It would be nice to be able to roll the bike around, and it would be as easy as grinding off the chain, but I also want to use that to know when I finally get it in neutral. I did hook up a battery to it and got the low oil pressure light (nothing else, but at least no smoke!). I am considering starting a rebuild thread...

Mike
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. snyderman,

Sorry I'm late to the party. :o

Let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
snyderman said:
I live in Stacy, so there is a lot of MN below me.
Here is my new time/money pig:
View attachment 13129
It was listed on Craig's list for $250, I got it for$200. I have a Clymer manual coming, I will keep spraying Deep Creep and gently persuading these allegedly "moving parts". It would be nice to be able to roll the bike around, and it would be as easy as grinding off the chain, but I also want to use that to know when I finally get it in neutral. I did hook up a battery to it and got the low oil pressure light (nothing else, but at least no smoke!). I am considering starting a rebuild thread...

Mike
Click to expand...

Just douche the whole bike with PB Blaster, especially the exhaust studs sounds like you are going to need it.... If the siezed bolts don't drive you insane, the corroded electrical components (peticulary, inside the headlight housing) will ! LOL
 
Thanks Basscliff for the great welcome. It will take me awhile to digest all that info!
 
Road_Clam said:
Proabable issue is a corroded siezed clutch cable. Second probable cause is "fused" clutch plates. Disconnect the clutch cable at the arm on the engine and isolate which component is bad.
Click to expand...


It looks like the answer is both! The cable is definitely locked up. I disconnected it and I can move the clutch lever on the motor, but the clutch does not disengage. I can get the bike in neutral or in gear by moving the shifter, but moving the clutch lever gets me nothing. Looks like I need to tear into that next. I did a bit of searching, but did not find a tutorial on clutch teardown. Is there one?
 
Mike

Before you tear into the clutch itself (right side) look at the left side of the motor where the clutch cable attaches

Pull off the small cover right where the cable goes in. See the locknut? Loosen that. Now, take off the larger cover this sits in and turn it over. There's the mechanism that turns the cable movement into clutch disengagement.

See if you can move the mechanism If not, Deep Creep everything, after it sits, disassemble the mechanism, clean and grease.

Lube your clutch cable and that part is done. If the clutch is still stuck, take off the clutch cover, the plates are probably stuck together

Rural MN? I thought you were going to say Frazee
 
I can move the mechanism (the lever inside the motor that the cable connects to), that does not dissengage the clutch.
 
Big T said:
Pull off the small cover right where the cable goes in. See the locknut? Loosen that. Now, take off the larger cover this sits in and turn it over. There's the mechanism that turns the cable movement into clutch disengagement.
Click to expand...
I need to clarify this View attachment 13264Sorry for the lousy pic. But are you saying that I can remove the large cover with the red arrow in it? It looks like I need to remove the lever and the piece that is behind it. Please forgive my ignorance, I don't even know what to call that piece.
 
Yes, that is the sprocket cover and you can remove it by undoing the six or so screws around the edge of it.
 
Thanks! What do I need to remove before I can remove that cover? The lever that the cable attaches to? That round piece behind the lever?
 
You'll need to remove your gear shift lever (has a circlip around the back bolt); pay very close attention to the orientation of that lever so you put it back on right. Pictures will do you lots of good so take them.

If you want to remove that cover completely in order to paint or to place it somewhere while changing then yes, remove the clutch cable from inside of it, paying attention to the orientation of the little worm gear like device.
 
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