Compu-Fire SERIES R/R Install

[Hammered]

SO the CompuFire you listed is for all the GS'? Or just the 1000s? Im probably going to swap the R/R when I do the stator on my 650.

 

[Hammered]

So I am searching for thjs R/R. I run into this and I would like to know if I am looking at the wrong part or is this really a good price.

http://www.debrix.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CF55120-MCA

Thats for a Harley.

 

[Richsuz]

Thats for a Harley.

Aren't they all? There isn't one made for GS's, this is being adapted for our bikes...and IF it were for a HD, why would it not work on our GS's? 32 A, three phase.

 

[posplayr]

The only compufire that works is the part number listed in the link.

 

[first timer]

Jim the compufire works better then those fjr RR you were using? All your tech talk is over my head but seeing you in action first hand (Bill knows what i am talking about ) and knowing your are a electrical engineer I have all the confidence you are right the compufire is a better mouse trap.

 

[posplayr]

Jim the compufire works better then those fjr RR you were using? All your tech talk is over my head but seeing you in action first hand (Bill knows what i am talking about ) and knowing your are a electrical engineer I have all the confidence you are right the compufire is a better mouse trap.

yes SERIES R/R's will solve chronic problems with cooking stators ; none of the SHUNT regulators will do that.

 

[first timer]

ahh so the GSXR and FJR stuff are shunt type which are not as good at the series RR. Ok thats simple enough.

 

[posplayr]

ahh so the GSXR and FJR stuff are shunt type which are not as good at the series RR. Ok thats simple enough.

Early GSXR have alternators which control outputs with feild control so it not the same and doesnt have the same issues.

 

[Richsuz]

My battery was dry every couple of weeks. Last week it died. Put a 12V 7ah battery from the GS125 to start the bike and it started easely. BUt my Charging system was showing 13.5 volts at 3000 RPM and 16.6 V at 4000 and UP. Bought a new YB14L-A2 battery but the charging was still high. Removed the R/R and it has some blueish greenish (potasium color?) paste oosing from it.Time to change the R/R. Just placed an order from www.debrix.com. $204.64 for the Compu-fire R/R, shipped to Guatemala, Priority mail. Hope they are a good supplier and ship ASAP.

On inspection, I see that one of the leads from the Stator does not go direct to the R/R. goes into the Harness and another wire from the Harness connects to the third input lead from the R/R. Is this going to change with the series R/R?

 

[Dogma]

For those riding shafties, here is a description of mounting the less expensive, but larger Cycle Electric 601 series regulator in a GS1000G.

 

[salty_monk]

On inspection, I see that one of the leads from the Stator does not go direct to the R/R. goes into the Harness and another wire from the Harness connects to the third input lead from the R/R. Is this going to change with the series R/R?

It will if you change it..... It goes to the headlight switch if you have one & nowhere if you don't have one.
It's much better to go all 3 into the RR direct. If you peel back the binding you'll find a splitter in that harness about 6" in if you don't want the odd connection flopping around. The other two coming from the front of the bike you can just plug into each other for the sake of neatness or even cut them off... it's just a loop.

Dan

 

[Richsuz]

It will if you change it..... It goes to the headlight switch if you have one & nowhere if you don't have one.
It's much better to go all 3 into the RR direct. If you peel back the binding you'll find a splitter in that harness about 6" in if you don't want the odd connection flopping around. The other two coming from the front of the bike you can just plug into each other for the sake of neatness or even cut them off... it's just a loop.

Dan

No mine is a 650GLD, but I don't understand, the headlight gets fed AC from the Stator, not regulated 12 DC?

 

[Richsuz]

In regards to the instalation. I read other postings of people relocating the R/R to the front of the bike to improve cooling. Do I need to consider this with the Compu-fire? Will it make it easier to install? Does the increase in wire length make a difference? I would assume I need to keep cables as short as possible, but since I have time to prep, before the part gets here, I am considering my options....

 

[Guest]

im sure this is a stupid question, but is there an "ideal" oil temp? is there such a thing as a too cool oil temp?

greg

 

[Dogma]

im sure this is a stupid question, but is there an "ideal" oil temp? is there such a thing as a too cool oil temp?

greg

Multi-viscosity oils like 10W-40 are formulated with a certain operating temperature range in mind. As temperature rises, viscosity of the oil drops. If operating temperatures are lower than the design range for that formulation, then you are wasting power with an oil formulation that is too viscous. If operating temperature is too high, then you may not have enough viscosity to lubricate the engine. The oil also degrades faster at elevated temperature.

From a design perspective, lower operating temperature is desirable for a given volume of oil in an engine developing a given amount of power. It means there is less waste heat. Get the temperatures low enough, and you may need to run a lower viscosity oil. Car owner's manuals will have a table describing what to use in cold or hot environments.

For motorcycles, we can't really reduce the operating temperature to make a significant change in what viscosity oil we use, other than riding in the winter. We do have to guard against running too hot and degrading the oil prematurely, which leads to accelerated part wear. We can run the engines harder if we can keep the oil cool. So, the bottom line for motorcycles is, take any relatively easy steps to cool the oil as much as possible in performance applications.

A lot of folks want to see the engine oil temperature reach the boiling point of water. The idea is to boil off any moisture that has condensed inside the crankcase. My thinking is that dew evaporates as ambient temperatures rise during the day, and that's no different inside an engine. Unless the engine is completely sealed, moisture will come and go. Reaching the boiling point is the only way to make sure all the water has been converted from the liquid form, but it will be back the next morning when everything has cooled. A properly designed and maintained engine will have anything that can corrode bathed in oil, and thus protected.

Geez. Ask a simple question...

 

[Richsuz]

So, I got my regulator today. wooohooo! The thing is HUGE! So has anybody with a GS650GL gone through the install? It will def. have to be relocated. The output cables are long enough, but the AC input cables are very short and already have a connector attached.

On the subject of connecting it to the stator. The kit came with a housing that mates to the connector already on the R/R AC input. No pins came to crimp on to the stator wires. What type/size/etc do I need to take advantage of this nice setup? Can I find an automotive application pin kit that is right for this?

 

[posplayr]

So, I got my regulator today. wooohooo! The thing is HUGE! So has anybody with a GS650GL gone through the install? It will def. have to be relocated. The output cables are long enough, but the AC input cables are very short and already have a connector attached.

On the subject of connecting it to the stator. The kit came with a housing that mates to the connector already on the R/R AC input. No pins came to crimp on to the stator wires. What type/size/etc do I need to take advantage of this nice setup? Can I find an automotive application pin kit that is right for this?

They are a standard automotive type pin. MARVAC has them; you will have to do a little search.

http://www.marvac.com/

 

[Guest]

this is exactly the type of answer i was looking for, thanks! so, even with an oil cooler fitted, sounds like too cool wouldnt be an issue. i am already running below boiling on my (tck's) 1100es with the oil cooler, at least if i can believe the oil temp gauge. thanks!!

greg

Multi-viscosity oils like 10W-40 are formulated with a certain operating temperature range in mind. As temperature rises, viscosity of the oil drops. If operating temperatures are lower than the design range for that formulation, then you are wasting power with an oil formulation that is too viscous. If operating temperature is too high, then you may not have enough viscosity to lubricate the engine. The oil also degrades faster at elevated temperature.

From a design perspective, lower operating temperature is desirable for a given volume of oil in an engine developing a given amount of power. It means there is less waste heat. Get the temperatures low enough, and you may need to run a lower viscosity oil. Car owner's manuals will have a table describing what to use in cold or hot environments.

For motorcycles, we can't really reduce the operating temperature to make a significant change in what viscosity oil we use, other than riding in the winter. We do have to guard against running too hot and degrading the oil prematurely, which leads to accelerated part wear. We can run the engines harder if we can keep the oil cool. So, the bottom line for motorcycles is, take any relatively easy steps to cool the oil as much as possible in performance applications.

A lot of folks want to see the engine oil temperature reach the boiling point of water. The idea is to boil off any moisture that has condensed inside the crankcase. My thinking is that dew evaporates as ambient temperatures rise during the day, and that's no different inside an engine. Unless the engine is completely sealed, moisture will come and go. Reaching the boiling point is the only way to make sure all the water has been converted from the liquid form, but it will be back the next morning when everything has cooled. A properly designed and maintained engine will have anything that can corrode bathed in oil, and thus protected.

Geez. Ask a simple question...

 

[Guest]

The only compufire that works is the part number listed in the link.

are you a dealer for these guys?
why do we need a 40amp reg and why is the 55402 the only reg that will work? why isn't a 32amp good enough for a GS?

 

[posplayr]

are you a dealer for these guys?
why do we need a 40amp reg and why is the 55402 the only reg that will work? why isn't a 32amp good enough for a GS?

Rob, No I am not a dealer; you can buy them from where ever you want.

You don't need 40 amps, but the 55402 is the only 3 phase SERIES R/R compufire has. All the rest are two phase.

Motorcycle Electric also have SERIES units like the 602 that are also 3 phase but as I mentioned before they are physically much larger.

Billy may have found a OE SERIES model but I have never seen or test one of the.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1407392&postcount=4


I did test this one two weekends ago,and it was a fraud.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=173731

Compufire 55402

Even though the ElectricCycle 600 series R/R's are also SERIES and very robust in almost every way to the Compufire. The Compufire is significantly smaller and will fit under a GS1100E side cover. The CE600 is a monster and has to be mounted someplace where there is space like under the battery box. The Compufire runs very cool so there is NO benefit to having the larger package of the CE 600 series. Both are 40 amp+ designs which way exceeds what a GS requires.