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Conventional "RACING" oil or not???

This is from an article in Classic Yammy written by the guy that was involved in the actual recall and distribution of the recall kits that Yamaha did form their recalls....it explains the problem as they discovered it back then.


"Of course I also cannot recall everything that happened during those hectic days but I remember that one of our race mechanics, Rod Tingate, suspected that the problem was in the oil circulation. He cut the oil tank and glued a Perspex window on it. After running the engine it was clear that not oil, but just foam came from the return pipe.
Oil temperature was therefore the main problem, we were thinking. Only years later we realized that it was something different. Japanese Motorcycles in the early 1970’s were light years ahead of cars. But we only had “old” car-designed 4-stroke oil!
Several oil-engineers have assured me later that if modern 4-stroke motorcycle oils had been available in those years, Yamaha would not have had any recall.... And also Honda would not have had their camshaft and camchain-tensioner problems as another example. But if... does not help."
 
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You are not an engineer, nor am I. let those who test lubricants put your mind at ease.

Send them an oil sample...

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-is-oil-analysis.php

Spectral exam:
In the spectral exam, we take a portion of your oil sample and run it through a machine called a spectrometer. The spectrometer analyzes the oil and tells us the levels of the various metals and additives that are present in the oil. This gives us a gauge of how much your engine is wearing. To learn more about the elements we look at and where they come from in your oil, go to our Report Explanation page.
 
The oil thats in it now is the H4 Honda Racing oil Randy gave me Dale, which isnt exactly cheap stuff. And like i stated earlier, the auto parts place 2 blocks away sells whats labeled as motorcycle racing oil as well. Thing is that if special "racing" oil is just catchy words and nothing more than the smoke and mirros hype then I want to know. I can save money not only on the cost of the oil but also in not driving 30 miles round trip to the dealer for the Honda H4...see what i am saying?
 
All synthetic oils are better at anti-foaming period.
With that said, use a motorcycle specific synthetic oil or Rotella synthetic and don't worry about it any longer.
 
I know exactly what you are saying and I understand why you want to know what you are asking us to help you with. You want a good oil with excellent anti-foaming qualities. Only testing will tell you what you need to know.

Keep in mind, most manufacturers are trying to sell a product and all those fancy terms are nothing more than that; a MARKETING term. For instance, take that Honda oil you've been referring to, it's a synthetic BLEND oil. Not a full synthetic oil. The oils we use here are also a synthetic blend. Are they better than a straight conventional oil? sure!, but by today's standards they are nothing special.

Be weary of a High priced oil with slick marketing, fancy packaging that when it really comes down to it, is nothing special...

When we first rescued her, my buddy Randy had some Honda JP4 synthetic blend that we put in.
 
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I just wanted to be sure and not make a bad choice in oil..seeing that that was the issue with this engine from the get go. If you guys sayn that todays basic conventional oil will withstand the foaming then thats all I need to really know. Just wanting to understand and decipher all this " anti foaming" jargen before i blow this engine up. Thanks for the links and input guys.
 
Thats JP was a typo Dale...I couldnt remember the name of the oil at the time...H4 was the stuff...HA HA.
 
If you guys sayn that todays basic conventional oil will withstand the foaming then thats all I need to really know.
I don't recall anyone suggesting you use a basic conventional oil... quite far from it as I recall.
 
Well as I took things...todays conventional oils are capable of withstanding this "foaming" phenomenin...was i not interpreting the postings correctly? And just what is the author of the article referring to when he states "todays oil technology"???
 
There are conventional oils (dyno), synthetic blends (synthetic- conventional), hydrocracked synthetic oils (synthetic as a marketing term) and true synthetic oils, plus a whole gammit of additive packages for each and every type of oil available.

Just go with Rotella Synthetic 5W40 or Amsoil and be done with it. :)
 
Well as I took things...todays conventional oils are capable of withstanding this "foaming" phenomenon...was i not interpreting the postings correctly? And just what is the author of the article referring to when he states "todays oil technology"???
You are correct. A synthetic is good but not a requirement. I am an engineer and I am trained on how do do research. What you really should use, Chuck, is what everyone else uses: Rotella T 15W 40. I have asked my friends who also work in the diesel industry, and they concur.
 
I think you will find that Rotella 15w40 is not even close to being as shear stable as Amsoil 20w50. When I used Rotella in my '82, the shifts were starting to get 'clunky' at about 2.5K, when I used Amsoil it was still shifting nice at 5K miles.

Just one bike so take it for what it is.
 
I think you will find that Rotella 15w40 is not even close to being as shear stable as Amsoil 20w50. When I used Rotella in my '82, the shifts were starting to get 'clunky' at about 2.5K, when I used Amsoil it was still shifting nice at 5K miles.

Just one bike so take it for what it is.

From what I've read over at the Bob is the Oil guy forum, you can run that Amsoil until all the acid buffers are used up without much concern about the viscosity shearing down. I'm not sure how many miles that would take, but suspect it would be well above 5000 miles. From that standpoint Amsoil helps offset it's high cost. Still though, that cost is a killer. And my inner mechanical sympathy makes it hard to run the same oil for 8000 miles in an air cooled motorcycle.:o
 
Ed, I'm glad someone confirms what experience I had with that oil, and yes, I would be willing to bet that oil would be shear stable long after 5,000 miles.

The worst oil I've ever used in my '82 was Advanced auto's 20w50. I drained that stuff after using it just 90 miles. Absolute garbage! Quaker State conventional 10w40 was good for 800~900 miles then the shift quality started to go south. I tried a few different oils just to see what they would do and that Amsoil was quite the standout in my opinion.
 
I agree on the mileage. 2-3k max, especially for a special engine like that Yamaha. Which leaves the door open for oils that won't go as far as the Amsoil.
Spend the money on the Amsoil, or change it more frequently for dino oil. Your choice.
 
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