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De-stinking Penelope

Then keep watching this space.
The welder called saying the lower case is ready to be picked up and I already have the engine paint.
 
"Something" tells me you're going to take Dremel and smooth out those welds... :p
 
I've given that idea more than just a fleeting thought or two.

One of the shift rail pockets has about a mm of melted aluminum from the heat of being welded. I need to remove it and I mght touch up the welds at the same time. I don't want to weaken the weld by removing too much material but the desire to neaten things up a bit is overwhelming.
 
Personally if it doesnt interfere with the cover in any way I would leave it. Nice and beefy in that areas a good thing.
 
A slight application of a half round file and some crocus cloth to make it look a little more respectable... much better.


 
Hit the cases and valve cover with prep and etch. One of its uses is to etch aluminum for paint. I need to pick up a few more detailing brushes tomorrow to remove what's left of the corrosion then they'll be ready to paint. Could almost clear the lower engine case as it sits! Decisions, decisions. :)


 
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rustybronco said:
Could almost clear the lower engine case as it sits! Decisions, decisions. :)
Click to expand...

I have done a lot of research and tried a few recommended CLEAR-COAT products (applied as per the manufacturers specs) but I am yet to find a product that will keep the aluminium from corroding or that will not "yellow" over time. I'm done using clear-coat on the alu bits on these bikes, especially on the parts that go through the heat/cold cycles...
Hope this helps with your decision and doesn't confuse you more :p
 
I shall quote a famous painter from these realms, when I had the same quandary;

Larry said:
Aw c'mon, Flyboy, you know you'll never be able to surround that engine with all newly painted parts w/o also painting the entire engine..
Click to expand...

Thats all your honour, the prosecution rests.
 
No need to prosecute :eek: ... I'm certainly FOR painting the engine cases, jut not using CLEAR finish but "solid" paint
 
I am with the others on just painting the entire thing. I cleared over the engine on the 77 750, which was my first go at such a project, and its brownish yellow in some spots and is gonna need redone at some time. BUT the VHT Universal aluminum WITHOUT clear over it still looks just as awesome as he day it was applied.
 
If the use of clear-coat on the engine tends to yellow over time when subjected to repeated hot-cold cycles, what do any of you recommend using as a clear-coat for the clutch and stator covers? Hi-temp powder coating?

I had planned on using Glisten PC on the aformentioned engine covers and I will still can use it on my wheels and fork tubes if heat is going to be an issue with the covers.
 
Autosol and elbow grease once a week. :D

3404787_autosol.jpg
 
Sorry Stan, but it's gotta be clear-coat or something similar to it. The factory did it that way and if at all possible mine will be the same.
 
rustybronco said:
If the use of clear-coat on the engine tends to yellow over time when subjected to repeated hot-cold cycles, what do any of you recommend using as a clear-coat for the clutch and stator covers? Hi-temp powder coating?

I had planned on using Glisten PC on the aformentioned engine covers and I will still can use it on my wheels and fork tubes if heat is going to be an issue with the covers.
Click to expand...

YES on the powder coating or Ceramic paint coating.

NO on Glisten PC.
I tried it and while I think the product is excellent the alu covers still found a way of corroding UNDERNEATH the clear-coat, so in a year it looked like some dumb-ass clear-coated the parts with no prep. Just answering all the questions, like: "Oh, did you do any prep before spraying that clear?" made me sick... :mad:
 
The factory did it the way they did so bikes would look good IN THE SHOP and that coating deteriorated fast once on the road...
 
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