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Do you rebuild your GS cam chain tensioner?
- Thread starter grcamna2
- Start date
I've ordered the o-rings and seal plus new spring. I may rebuild the one replacement from a GS550E from eBay that I installed when I first bought the bike back in Detroit,Mi.,I noticed the original one was leaking oil (12,000 miles)before I ever started it up so decided at the time to get another one,now after 3000+ miles that one doesn't have much tension(always sounded loose while riding back West with it)plus leaking oil.I will install the original while waiting for the parts from Babbitt's online,then rebuild the replacement.
Do they usually just lose spring tension or possibly get crudded-up with gunk and jamb? Hopefully the pushrod is still useable.
The internal spring on the one I rebuilt was still pretty close to the length of the new one but I went ahead and replaced it anyway. As noted in the tutorial that Bwringer wrote up, the sloped area of the pushrod had a groove in it from the ball bearing. Filed it down and reassembled it. I think in there he also suggests operating the tensioner while it's off the bike to get an idea how it works. If you do this, you'll see at that point if gunk has, or could affected the operation.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Do I rebuild the tensnioner? Definitely. Every 20 or 30 years, it simply needs to be done. I assume that it has not ever been done on any bike I have gotten, so I just order the parts and do it.
The usual "lack of tension" is improper installation. :-k
The manual says to retract the rod fully, lock it in place. Install the tensioner in the cylinder block. Loosen the setscrew to allow the rod to extend. Turn the setscrew until it stops, back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, use the lock nut to lock it in place. Too many times, I have found that the installer did not read the bolded text. The tensioner was installed and locked in place. The set screw needs to be released from the rod to allow the rod to move and do its job.
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I first created and posted these cam chain tensioner rebuild instructions in October 2004, with only a few minor detail updates since then. So far, the instructions seem to have worked for just about everyone. (But of course, suggestions for making things clearer are welcome...)
I usually keep a set or two of the seals and o-rings "in stock"; they're cheap and have come in handy more than once. Maybe next time I'll take a video and put it on Youtube.
