• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

electrical system redesign

  • Thread starter Thread starter beergood
  • Start date Start date
this simplified diagram will work for a 1100?

In theory it would work for an 1100 but there is no provison for lights, gauges or turn signals. It was intended for bobber and bare bones electrical and those would have to be added as per your desires.

Personally in the same way I would not strip out all the light and indicators for a car, I would try and keep a GS1100 pretty close to stock so this stripped down version I can't really recommend.

I would also add a coil relay mod, if you were going to rewire everything as that gives the most reliable voltage to the coils.
 
In theory it would work for an 1100 but there is no provison for lights, gauges or turn signals. It was intended for bobber and bare bones electrical and those would have to be added as per your desires.

Personally in the same way I would not strip out all the light and indicators for a car, I would try and keep a GS1100 pretty close to stock so this stripped down version I can't really recommend.

I would also add a coil relay mod, if you were going to rewire everything as that gives the most reliable voltage to the coils.

ok cool. atm i am in the process of getting wires and sockets etc. making a new harness/wiring. what would the best wire for this? is there a better brand to look for? or can i just go w/ the typical automotive type wire? also i wanted to go w/ 12 gauge wire but the more i look at it, it seems i want have enough room in there lol. i was told 14 is ok. what do y'all think?

if i hijacked a thread i apoligize. :)
 
ok cool. atm i am in the process of getting wires and sockets etc. making a new harness/wiring. what would the best wire for this? is there a better brand to look for? or can i just go w/ the typical automotive type wire? also i wanted to go w/ 12 gauge wire but the more i look at it, it seems i want have enough room in there lol. i was told 14 is ok. what do y'all think?

if i hijacked a thread i apoligize. :)

The best wire (whether you need it is a different matter) is teflon coated wire. It is harder to strip but is standard practice in miltary and avionics systems. I would only go 12G on the main power lines between R/R and ignition switch, fusebox, battery. Once the current is distributed you can switch back to 14 G.

http://www.bulkwire.com/wire-cable/ptfe-high-temperature-stranded-wire.html
 
The best wire (whether you need it is a different matter) is teflon coated wire. It is harder to strip but is standard practice in miltary and avionics systems. I would only go 12G on the main power lines between R/R and ignition switch, fusebox, battery. Once the current is distributed you can switch back to 14 G.

http://www.bulkwire.com/wire-cable/ptfe-high-temperature-stranded-wire.html

that's some cool stuff. i wouldn't need to shroud/cover it. just run it and be done.
 
FWIW, Teflon insulation just gives you higher resistance to heat before insulation breakdown. I wouldn't spend the money for teflon in this application as the stock wiring insulation has proved itself quite well (unless you are planing to run some wires a 1/4 away from a header pipe or soemthing like that) Standard automotive wiring run in the stock locations should be just fine. If anything, go get marine grade wire because it has tinned conductors(offers more resistance to moisture corrosion) usually has more strands (for more flexibility)
 
FWIW, Teflon insulation just gives you higher resistance to heat before insulation breakdown. I wouldn't spend the money for teflon in this application as the stock wiring insulation has proved itself quite well (unless you are planing to run some wires a 1/4 away from a header pipe or soemthing like that) Standard automotive wiring run in the stock locations should be just fine. If anything, go get marine grade wire because it has tinned conductors(offers more resistance to moisture corrosion) usually has more strands (for more flexibility)

Thanks, I did not realize marine grade wire as fully tinned. I did a quick goodle search and found this thread debating pros and cons. Your right corrosion resistance is more important that the higher heat resistance of the insulation

http://www.sailingtalks.com/forums/...marine-grade-wiring-vs-nonmarine-grade-wiring
 
FWIW, Teflon insulation just gives you higher resistance to heat before insulation breakdown. I wouldn't spend the money for teflon in this application as the stock wiring insulation has proved itself quite well (unless you are planing to run some wires a 1/4 away from a header pipe or soemthing like that) Standard automotive wiring run in the stock locations should be just fine. If anything, go get marine grade wire because it has tinned conductors(offers more resistance to moisture corrosion) usually has more strands (for more flexibility)

ty. i went this direction. and it is way less expensive. i also got a cool braided houseing too. it's flame reatarded and uv resistant. now for connectors
 
Last edited:
Back
Top