Engine mounting bolt and shock bolt issues

[RustyTank]

Howdy. I've had my GS850G for roughly 6 months. I recently started going through it and took off the luggage rack and the engine guards. Once those were off some of the nuts and bolts that those pieces were fitted to didn't quite fit right.
Here are the specific examples.

In regards to the luggage rack, as you can see, now that it's gone there's quite a bit of space between the bushing and the nut. Do I need a spacer of some kind?

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In regards to the engine mounting bolt, I took off the engine guards and now the bolt doesn't get tight enough. In fact it seems to long, end of the bolt doesn't go any further, hits a wall. The right side, pictured here, even has a spacer in it. The left side has the same issue, too long. Should I use spacers of some kind or should I get shorter bolts? Would love to hear your suggestions.

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[limeex2]

Look on the microfisch for the proper bolt length on the motor mount. if wrong one gets used it can bottom out on engine case and puncture the case. Look also at shock mounts for proper washer spacing on shocks

 

[Guest]

Needs a spacer behind the shocker, and a "taller" dome nut. (acorn nut) As in side is longer = more thread= goes further on. The lower engine mount bolt, just get a shorter one. Or cut 4mm off the thread?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Yes you should have a couple of washers between the shock and frame; check the fiche to verify how many for certain

 

[Steve]

In regards to the luggage rack, as you can see, now that it's gone there's quite a bit of space between the bushing and the nut. Do I need a spacer of some kind?

In regards to the engine mounting bolt, I took off the engine guards and now the bolt doesn't get tight enough. In fact it seems to long, end of the bolt doesn't go any further, hits a wall.

For the shocks, the factory arrangement has a series of washers to put the shock in a vertical position, yet allow for installation of accessories. There are two different washers. One has a hole just large enough to slip over the threads, the other size can slip over the shoulder. A total of four or five washers is required, but there is no reason you couldn't use a spacer of the proper size.

As far as the lower bolts are concerned, I hope you didn't use any gorilla-torque on them when they hit "the wall". :-k
That "wall" is the side of the crankcase. If you crank down on that bolt, you can punch a hole in the crankcase. Repair is NOT easy.

I would heartily recommend one of two things.
1. Put the engine guards back on. If the ones you took off are damaged, get some new ones and put them on.
2. Get new bolts. Yes, you can use washers or spacers, but somewhere down the line, one of them will be dropped without being noticed, and then you torque down on the bolt, as usual, and punch that hole, anyway.

.

 

[chuck hahn]

BE EXTREMEMLY EXTREMELY CAREFUL. Bolts ARE NOT the same length on each side. If you go in too far you WILL pop a hole in the crankcase. Either use a few washers or get new bolts the PROPER lengths..but under no circumstances tighten anything untill you are 1000% certain the end of the bolts can not touch the engine.

There should be washers on the frame side and the acorn nut side for the shocks. Eyeball so the shock is straight up and down in relation to the swing arm mount.

 

[RustyTank]

For the shocks, the factory arrangement has a series of washers to put the shock in a vertical position, yet allow for installation of accessories. There are two different washers. One has a hole just large enough to slip over the threads, the other size can slip over the shoulder. A total of four or five washers is required, but there is no reason you couldn't use a spacer of the proper size.

As far as the lower bolts are concerned, I hope you didn't use any gorilla-torque on them when they hit "the wall". :-k
That "wall" is the side of the crankcase. If you crank down on that bolt, you can punch a hole in the crankcase. Repair is NOT easy.

I would heartily recommend one of two things.
1. Put the engine guards back on. If the ones you took off are damaged, get some new ones and put them on.
2. Get new bolts. Yes, you can use washers or spacers, but somewhere down the line, one of them will be dropped without being noticed, and then you torque down on the bolt, as usual, and punch that hole, anyway.

.

Don't worry guys, I didn't try and force the engine mount bolts. I realized pretty quickly that something was wrong and backed the bolts off. Although, reading your replies sent me to the garage first thing this morning to feel around where the bolts meet the crankcase JUST to make sure no damage had been done. I suppose I would've noticed a puddle of oil under the bike had a bolt punctured, but felt better given it a feel. It's all good, can't even feel a dimple.

In regards to getting new bolts, I have a great hardware store nearby that has a good bulk section of nuts and bolts of all kinds and sizes. Can you tell me, what type of bolt to look for? I don't want to get the wrong kind, I know different bolts have different types of threading, etc.

In regards to the shock mounting, I checked out the microfiche on Bike Bandit. The stock washers and nuts seem to be available and not expensive, I might as well order them.

 

[RustyTank]

BE EXTREMEMLY EXTREMELY CAREFUL. Bolts ARE NOT the same length on each side. If you go in too far you WILL pop a hole in the crankcase. Either use a few washers or get new bolts the PROPER lengths..but under no circumstances tighten anything untill you are 1000% certain the end of the bolts can not touch the engine.

Yea, I'll be sure before I tighten the bolts. You're right to offer caution, there's very little room for error down there. I can see how someone might puncture the crankcase. Thanks Chuck.

 

[Steve]

Do yourself a favor and ignore Bike Bandit. They are the second-most-expensive vendor out there and they use their own parts numbers that don’t match Suzuki’s numbers.

One of the forum favorites is Parts Outlaw. Find that lower engine mount bolt, look at the number. After the hyphen, the first two digits are the bolt diameter, the next two are the length. There is no indication there to show thread pitch, but you are looking for FINE thread.

.

 

[RustyTank]

Do yourself a favor and ignore Bike Bandit. They are the second-most-expensive vendor out there and they use their own parts numbers that don’t match Suzuki’s numbers.

One of the forum favorites is Parts Outlaw. Find that lower engine mount bolt, look at the number. After the hyphen, the first two digits are the bolt diameter, the next two are the length. There is no indication there to show thread pitch, but you are looking for FINE thread.

.

Copy that that boss

 

[Steve]

At home now, using a real computer. Looking at the part numbers, I see that they are both M10 bolts, the right side is 60mm long, the left side is 50mm.

.

 

[RustyTank]

At home now, using a real computer. Looking at the part numbers, I see that they are both M10 bolts, the right side is 60mm long, the left side is 50mm.

.

Superb information Steve. Thank you. I'll head out this weekend and try to find it. In the meantime, I'll order those washers and what not from Parts Outlaw. Again, thanks everyone.