Engine oil replacement:

[Seanie]

In my "Clymer" manual it says to use SAE10W/40 SE or SD rated engine oil in my 750e.

Is there any better/newer option oil I should be using?

Thanks

 

[Agemax]

10/40 synthetic would be best or semi synthetic which is slightly cheaper

 

[Steve]

In my "Clymer" manual it says to use SAE10W/40 SE or SD rated engine oil in my 750e.

Is there any better/newer option oil I should be using?

Thanks

Keep in mind how old these bikes are and when the manual was written.

The SD and SE ratings were surpassed by SF, which was then surpassed by SG, etc., etc. I just looked at a bottle of oil in my garage and saw that it carries an SM rating.

The biggest thing you need to be concerned about is to avoid the "Energy Conserving" rating that would be in the lower half of the "API donut" on the back label, and so far, I have not seen that in a 40w oil.

.

 

[Guest]

Rotella T 15W-40 seems to work very well.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Are you looking at any particular brand? Not sure what is available in Ireland.

 

[Clone]

Time for the debate to start. I actually find that the Rotella "evaporates" and I end up adding at least a liter before the oil change.
The bike doesn't leak but it dissappears. So switched to a different synthetic diesel oil Valvoline and the problem is not the same, 3500km in and still don't need to add. So, I am all for synthetic diesel oil, just try different ones to see which works best in your bike.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

From your "mega-welcome".

A Few Words About Oil

I'll tell you what I use and why. I use Rotella-T Heavy Duty 15w40 oil. It is actually diesel engine oil and contains more anti-wear additives, phosphorous and zinc, that these older high-revving engines love. At about $12 a gallon from Wal-Mart, it's less than half the price of many motorcycle-specific oils, and is the best "bang for your buck" value. The synthetic Rotella-T is just fine too, it won't hurt your clutch. If you like, continue reading the links below for everything you ever wanted to know about oil but were afraid to ask.

Here's a great article on motorcycle-specific oil in general.
Here a 2nd great article, also on motorcycle-specific oil.
Sport Rider Magazine ran a feature awhile back on motorcycle oils as well, and included some testing with detailed results provided. Well worth the read!
Sport Rider "Oil's Well That Ends Well" Part 1
Sport Rider "Oil's Well That Ends Well" Part 2
Richard Wildman (of Richard's Corvair) explains in layman's terms all about grades, viscosity, shear, additives, specs, etc.
Richard's Corvair - Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and Other Engines

And, of course, Bob the Oil Guy is a fountain of information.




Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff

 

[Guest]

Time for the debate to start. I actually find that the Rotella "evaporates" and I end up adding at least a liter before the oil change.
The bike doesn't leak but it dissappears. So switched to a different synthetic diesel oil Valvoline and the problem is not the same, 3500km in and still don't need to add. So, I am all for synthetic diesel oil, just try different ones to see which works best in your bike.

Even though your oil is disappearing, it is not evaporating.

 

[Guest]

I'll tell you what I use and why. I use Rotella-T Heavy Duty 15w40 oil. It is actually diesel engine oil and contains more anti-wear additives, phosphorous and zinc, that these older high-revving engines love. At about $12 a gallon from Wal-Mart, it's less than half the price of many motorcycle-specific oils, and is the best "bang for your buck" value. The synthetic Rotella-T is just fine too, it won't hurt your clutch.[/FONT][/COLOR]

BassCliff

FWIW, bought a jug of Rotella-T 15W40 (Triple Protection) yesterday, and noticed it is also clearly JASO-MA rated (motorcycle safe), as is their latest T-6 Synthetic.....Shell has apparently picked up on the growing popularity of their diesel oils with motorcyclists. :-k

 

[FormerBMWguy]

Your oil isn't evaporating- you're either leaking it, burning it, or blowing it out the breather. It can't evaporate, especially in a semi-closed environment like the crankcase.