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Factory sealant gone???

Kara25

Kara25

Forum Mentor
Ok so during the cleaning of my 550 cases to remove all the aluminium swarf from grinding the upper crankcases i noticed that some orange goo that probably was in the engine from factoty in the clutch area has cleaned off washed away! What is that thing? Was it there intentional? I got a pic from another random thread here to show what i mean and i will post pics from my cleaned case area that it was previously. I hope that is not something irreversible i am too deep in this by now.
 
If they arent holes i wouldnt worry. thats the clutch well so no big deal is my opinion
 
Some JB Weld in place of that brown stuff wouldn't hurt. I seems to be some sort of bonding agent sealing those pressed in parts, whatever they are?
 
The top one looks to have marks left when the casting was cleaned up. Could they be plugs in casting cores?
 
Brendan W said:
The top one looks to have marks left when the casting was cleaned up. Could they be plugs in casting cores?
Click to expand...

Brass plugs. Odd to see such a sloppy application if sealant in a Japanese product. Different installers it seems.
those holes were made to bore the passages for the oil pump. Must be added assurance on a pressure fit.
s-l1600.jpg
 
Last edited:
So should i slap anything on them or not? plus now that we are talking about this area i checked both my factory manual plus my clymers about the 3 retaining bearing screws and the 3 oil pump screws and they dont specify any torque values only to put blue loctite. You just loctite the screws and snag them tight by feel? No torque spec at all?
 
Last edited:
Kara25 said:
So should i slap anything on them or not? plus now that we are talking about this area i checked both my factory manual plus my clymers about the 3 retaining bearing screws and the 3 oil pump screws and they dont specify any torque values only to put blue loctite. You just loctite the screws and snag them tight by feel? No torque spec at all?
Click to expand...

If there's not a specific torque spec, use the "global" torque spec for the thread size. In this case, IIRC, these are 6mm threads, so that's not a lot of torque. Loctite and "snug" will in fact do the trick pretty nicely.
 
Thanks guys for the input i would have thrown a big greek feast for all of you if you were here to repay yoy for all your help but unfortunatelly you have to settle with being the brains behind the soon to be best GS on greece. :p:p:lol:
 
Some of the countersink cross head screws are staked. If you remove any of these, don't forget to stake them again after tightening
 
Kara25 said:
So should i slap anything on them or not? plus now that we are talking about this area i checked both my factory manual plus my clymers about the 3 retaining bearing screws and the 3 oil pump screws and they dont specify any torque values only to put blue loctite. You just loctite the screws and snag them tight by feel? No torque spec at all?
Click to expand...

If these have not popped in 40 plus years no need to add more it won't do anything. The sealant may have also served as a lube or even a visual means to verify no movement after a pressure check during manufacture. Putting anything on now is a finger in a dike.

the oem manuals have a chart for fasteners you can use when none is specified. Useful to use tges as Suzuki would know the yield strength of the alloys used.
 
Filter screen button head machine screws for mine I used a tiny drop of blue Loctite and a firm twist with a properly mated screwdriver.
you see some of the ones in the shifter mechanism deformed in oics I assume because a generous amount of threadlock was used at the factory.
There's charts on fastener supply sites check those.
 
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