Finally took the plunge.

[Matchless]

Matchless,
Just noticed the polishing job on the final drive housing-fabulous. Do you plan on coating the bare metal with a clear coat?

I am in two minds on that. Some advise to just polish it now and again and others have had problems with the clear coating after a period of time. At the moment it is just polished.
We do not get all the fancy types of coatings around here. I may give it a very thin coat of clear, and this means the wheels, forks and side covers as well. I think the problem after polishing is that microscopic bits of compound is left in the little pits and scratches and the usual clear coat does not etch properly to the metal and loosens up over time. I am not sure if it is possible to get it out any other way than some sort of chemical dip that does not affect the gloss.
If anyone has any advice on this please do so!

 

[Flaggo60]

For my own two cents worth, if you opt not to coat you have to be religious about keeping the bare metal polished. If you let it go, it will pit and be hard to maintain. I did the side covers of my engine and while I maintained it, it looked great. Store it over a winter and the problems start. Just my experience.

 

[Matchless]

For my own two cents worth, if you opt not to coat you have to be religious about keeping the bare metal polished. If you let it go, it will pit and be hard to maintain. I did the side covers of my engine and while I maintained it, it looked great. Store it over a winter and the problems start. Just my experience.

The polisher doing my wheels (they are too big for my machine) said the exact same thing. Do you think an ordinary coat of clear laquer will be good enough?

 

[Flaggo60]

The polisher doing my wheels (they are too big for my machine) said the exact same thing. Do you think an ordinary coat of clear laquer will be good enough?

I have no experience with clear coat products and that, unfortunately, is why I have a pitted surface on my once-gorgeous polished engine side covers. I did once try a rattle can of the stuff from the local all-purpose automotive megastore and ended up having to remove the whole mess. I'll be watching this thread with hope for an answer. I wonder if your polisher could suggest a clear coat spec or product that would work ... ?

 

[Matchless]

I will definitely ask him. We have a 2k clearcoat that is mixed with a hardener that may work, but again I think the main problem is that it is not developed to etch to bare metal like some primers.

Edit: A supplier has confirmed that 2k clearcoat will not work on polished aluminium, but only on sanded.

 

[Matchless]

Here is a product that I was given, but not available here at all. Its called clear4chrome http://www.hardlifestyle.com/alsa_merchandise_clear4chrome.html

You should be able to get it out your way.

 

[Matchless]

As I will be fitting an MLS headgasket when assembling the top end and not much is available for MLS gaskets on my GS, this article gave me some insight
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic010532.htm

It makes me wonder if any updates were sent out by Suzuki as to fitting and torque figures for these gaskets. Does anyone have any experience using MLS gaskets? Do I follow the same guide as was written for the older conventional headgaskets of 1980 and use the same torque figures?

 

[Flaggo60]

Here is a product that I was given, but not available here at all. Its called clear4chrome http://www.hardlifestyle.com/alsa_merchandise_clear4chrome.html

You should be able to get it out your way.

I'll give that a look-thanks.

 

[Matchless]

OK, some poor progress, rims at polisher for 2 weeks, after many calls got them today. Now I still have to repaint the innerspokes.
Re chroming the headlight rim and the steering stem cover/logo was a complete disaster. They had them for 2 weeks and then messed them up completely and I need to find replacements. The steering stem cover is a holdup as I cannot completely assemble the front unless I have that. The operator never buffed and polished them after stripping the old chrome, never put a copper layer on, only nickel plated, saw it was a mess, pulled it from the tank and delayed me. They apologised and did not charge me, but the parts that were in fair condition before are rubbish now.
Not a good day for me.

 

[Flaggo60]

OK, some poor progress, rims at polisher for 2 weeks, after many calls got them today. Now I still have to repaint the innerspokes.
Re chroming the headlight rim and the steering stem cover/logo was a complete disaster. They had them for 2 weeks and then messed them up completely and I need to find replacements. The steering stem cover is a holdup as I cannot completely assemble the front unless I have that. The operator never buffed and polished them after stripping the old chrome, never put a copper layer on, only nickel plated, saw it was a mess, pulled it from the tank and delayed me. They apologised and did not charge me, but the parts that were in fair condition before are rubbish now.
Not a good day for me.

Sounds like its time to down tools and open a beer or other such and look at the sunset for awhile ....

 

[Zook]

Here's something to consider, says it's for aluminum.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=415&itemType=PRODUCT

 

[Guest]

Matchless old mate,I when I got my forks ground and rechromed ,I got my legs cleaned and clearcoated.They looked beeeuuutiful.4 months later when I went to put them on the bike,they had gone to sh#t.Looked like they had been sunburnt and had started to peel.Apparently it's really hard to get clean as the alloy can be porous and absorbs any oils.I pulled them apart and bead blasted them.I didn't put any other finish on them and 2 years later they still look like they've just been done.The only thing I do to "maintain" them is to give them a wipe over with a rag with a bit of WD40 on it each time I wash the old girl.I do the same to the engine covers(same finish) and wheels.I told you I was weird.Works for me.I replaced almost all my chrome with new as I'd heard similar stories to yours and the costs were almost the same.Sorry to hear about your various hassles,but have no doubt you'll persevere.It WILL eventually be worth it.....guaranteed.Cheers,Simon.

 

[Nessism]

I've used two part urethane clear over polished parts with good results. Even used it on engine covers, and while it didn't turn yellow or anything, it was brittle due to the heat.

Rear end shown below was polished and cleared.

 

[rustybronco]

Re chroming the headlight rim and the steering stem cover/logo was a complete disaster. They had them for 2 weeks and then messed them up completely and I need to find replacements. The steering stem cover is a holdup as I cannot completely assemble the front unless I have that.

can I get good pictures of your steering stem cover and emblem. I have a good spare head light ring lying around that has a little rust on the inside lower.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=867474&postcount=3
look at the thumb nail for the steering stem cover.

 

[rustybronco]

will clean up show room on the outside.
came with a head light that I got from ebay.

I have your address.
(did I say anything about price)

 

[Matchless]

can I get good pictures of your steering stem cover and emblem. I have a good spare head light ring lying around that has a little rust on the inside lower.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=867474&postcount=3
look at the thumb nail for the steering stem cover.

rustybronco,
That steering stem cover is exactly the one I have (or had). I painted the wheels today with hammertone grey, which is nearly the same as the original paint and then painted the steering stem cover with the same. Just so I could use it in the meantime and assemble the front. I will PM you on the parts. Everytime I saw the messed up cover plate I just felt sick, then I saw your mail and suddenly even in this cold weather I started feeling better.:dancing:
I fitted the new wheel bearings and now a cold front has just moved over us so I have packed up for the weekend.

Simon,
I have not clearcoated the shiny bits on the wheels, so you suggest I rather leave them? and just give them a polish now and again? I will post a picure of the wheels later.:-k

Nessism,
I wanted to use our 2k clearcoat, sounds same as what you used and someone also said it becomes brittle, something about not expanding with the aluminium over time. The rear drive looks perfect and is a real showpiece!

 

[Matchless]

Latest on 2 August 2008

Latest on 2 August 2008

Finally some pictures.
Steering stem cover painted hammertone grey after chromer messed it up.


Gauges back cover also painted hammertone grey as plastic chrome was faded and scratched.


Rear wheel polished and repainted, new bearings.


Then the mess in my garage

 

[Guest]

Looking GOOOOD!You'll be happy with the Bridgestones.I got 14500km out of my last set.They weren't down to the wear bars but started to get a bit slippery,so,again the weirdness kicked in.Cheers,Simon.

 

[Matchless]

....I pulled them apart and bead blasted them.I didn't put any other finish on them and 2 years later they still look like they've just been done.The only thing I do to "maintain" them is to give them a wipe over with a rag with a bit of WD40 on it each time I wash the old girl.I do the same to the engine covers(same finish) and wheels.

Simon,
As you saw I had the brake disks still off pending the clearcoat on the polished parts. I think I am going to follow your route. Just giving it a quick rub with WD40 is not too bad and a light spray of WD40 all over will also prevent rust and corrosion.
Thanks for that tip.

The black plastic gauge housing I cleaned with liquid black shoe polish, its unbelievably durable and stands up to sun and rain very well. To get tyres to look like new I brush them with a household scouring powder and then the rubber looks as if just came off the shelf, as tyre black makes it look artificial. I fitted those Bridgestones with tubes as well. Always a boon if you happen to get a puncture.

Just noticed I put the headligh 'ears' on upside down with short part to the bottom instead of top. Fortunately quick to fix at this stage.

 

[Guest]

Put something on upside down eh? Did the same thing.Some bits I put on and took off maybe 5 or 6 times before I was happy.Antisieze on all the bolts made it almost a pleasure.Well worth the muck around to get everything just right.I found that I re-routed my wiring harness heaps of times but now I enjoy trouble free riding and the bike is a pleasure to work on.For all my polished and bead blasted alloy,just a little WD40 squirted onto a rag keeps everything looking good.Keep up the good work.That shoe polish sounds like a good idea.I'll give it a go this days off.Cheers,Simon.