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Patrino
if you a Facebook member then join Dragbike Trader group and GS & KZ Dragbike Part:BUY&SELL group
if you a Facebook member then join Dragbike Trader group and GS & KZ Dragbike Part:BUY&SELL group
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Does Dragbike.com still have a forum? It was a good forum years ago.
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We'll be at 131 in june for a nhdro race....
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Jets have already arrived! Assuming the weather holds, hope to get back to the track the evening of the 24th.
stetracer, thanks for the Facebook tips. I requested permissions for the Dragbike Trader group, and will do so for the GS / KZ trader group, too.
stetracer, thanks for the Facebook tips. I requested permissions for the Dragbike Trader group, and will do so for the GS / KZ trader group, too.
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A few things, folks had their temperatures checked at the gate, they limited attendance to 100 vehicles, with one driver and one helper each, max. Masks were required for folks not immediately competing. Enforcement of the above policy amounted to stern reminders over the PA system, it seemed to be.
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Good news! Got the air shifter working, tracked the problem down to a disconnected lead at the handlebar button.
From the todo list:
* bench-test air shifter / identify cause of problem
--- see above
* find spare shift shaft
--- found a couple, but probably (hopefully?) don't need; bike shifts great with sprocket cover off, suggesting the shifting problems come down to a bound-up sprocket cover. I tried the cover with only three bolts in (including the doweled hole) and it shifts pretty good. Going to try that.
* extend pegs
--- I turned a couple ~1" spacers in the lathe, now need to get some longer bolts to mount the pegs
* change low-speed rpm pill
--- DONE
* test operation of high/low ignition switch, on clutch
--- tested it, confirmed it works well
* install 140 mains
--- DONE
* bush shift shaft hole, in sprocket cover?
--- probably (hopefully) not necessary - see above about shifting
* find extension cord splitter
--- FOUND IT
* inspect plugs
--- not done yet
* change oil
--- no big chunks, but lots of fine aluminum in the oil. Changed the filter too.
* install carb float bowl drain lines (to make rejetting easier and less messy)
--- not done yet
* move Keihin jets into their own box
--- still need to buy one
From the todo list:
* bench-test air shifter / identify cause of problem
--- see above
* find spare shift shaft
--- found a couple, but probably (hopefully?) don't need; bike shifts great with sprocket cover off, suggesting the shifting problems come down to a bound-up sprocket cover. I tried the cover with only three bolts in (including the doweled hole) and it shifts pretty good. Going to try that.
* extend pegs
--- I turned a couple ~1" spacers in the lathe, now need to get some longer bolts to mount the pegs
* change low-speed rpm pill
--- DONE
* test operation of high/low ignition switch, on clutch
--- tested it, confirmed it works well
* install 140 mains
--- DONE
* bush shift shaft hole, in sprocket cover?
--- probably (hopefully) not necessary - see above about shifting
* find extension cord splitter
--- FOUND IT
* inspect plugs
--- not done yet
* change oil
--- no big chunks, but lots of fine aluminum in the oil. Changed the filter too.
* install carb float bowl drain lines (to make rejetting easier and less messy)
--- not done yet
* move Keihin jets into their own box
--- still need to buy one
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Progress - did a 10.755 at 131 mph last night, with plenty more to give from both me and the bike. Got popped for noise twice (max 103 dB at my local track) and sent home, so top of the todo list is quieting things down.
More detail soon!
More detail soon!
Impressive!
I knew they have noise levels at track days, it never occurred to me they would have them at the strip.
I knew they have noise levels at track days, it never occurred to me they would have them at the strip.
Heh. I figured it’d be pretty loud with no baffle.
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My 'home track' is Portland International Raceway. It's only ~15 minutes from my house, and is actually a city park. Hard to get more convenient! The noise limit for the night drags is 103 dB. I got popped at 106 dB on the 131 mph pass. We dug into my spares, looking for a way to quiet it down on the spot, so we wouldn't have to quit. We wound up rotating the 'muffler' 90 degrees, so that it pointed down towards the ground (thinking that it might take some of the energy out of the exhaust). That got us down to 105 dB! 
Heading up to the shop this afternoon to take some measurements & inspections, see what I can work out. I'll keep folks posted!
Heading up to the shop this afternoon to take some measurements & inspections, see what I can work out. I'll keep folks posted!
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Photos up soon ... I fit a baffled muffler last week. It worked great, and I ran last night without any problems. Best pass was a 10.392 @ 132 mph.
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One of the many interesting things is that my top speed last Friday was only a mile or two per hour faster than my former previous top speed, but my ET was down by ~0.4 seconds. The main difference between my best runs and my former best runs were better 60' times. I've heard that a tenth quicker in a 60' time means three to four tenths quicker on the quarter ... wasn't sure if that was B.S. or not but my time slips suggest that's the case.
A friend who has come out to the track multiple times is good with a TIG. If he's willing, I'll ask him to add some mounting points on the frame and swingarm, to fit some additional struts, to stiffen the rear end. I'm running a strut now, but with the long swingarm and stackup in slop of various bushings and fasteners, there's still a noteable amount of flex in the rear of the bike. I know that stiffer isn't always better when it comes to motorcycle racing, but it's not too much work (figure a half day to make and weld the brackets, and a half day to fashion some additional struts) and can be undone pretty easily if it doesn't help (just undo the new struts).
A friend who has come out to the track multiple times is good with a TIG. If he's willing, I'll ask him to add some mounting points on the frame and swingarm, to fit some additional struts, to stiffen the rear end. I'm running a strut now, but with the long swingarm and stackup in slop of various bushings and fasteners, there's still a noteable amount of flex in the rear of the bike. I know that stiffer isn't always better when it comes to motorcycle racing, but it's not too much work (figure a half day to make and weld the brackets, and a half day to fashion some additional struts) and can be undone pretty easily if it doesn't help (just undo the new struts).
Maybe have your buddy weld you up a set of wheelie bars. That would help with your consistancy and put you deep into the 10's. Keep up the good work and thanks for keeping us posted.
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Here are some exhaust photos. Not pretty or light, but it did the job.
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Another one:
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And a final one. The second hanger bracket was necessary, due to the flex of the first hanger bracket (it's pretty long) and the flex at the header-to-muffler joint (it's flex pipe). One bracket would've almost certainly work but I felt better without the pipe wobbling with only a single bracket.
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@bobgroger, I've only run there three times, always on a Friday or Saturday night, and it has always been 1/4-mile. I believe the bracket racing's run on Wednesdays over the 1/8 mile.
I've been only going to the quarters because I've been focusing on getting the bike and myself dialed in. It's easier for me to do both of those, without at the same time trying to compete against someone. That said, I finally feel like I've got the bike (and me) set up OK, so planning to hit a Wednesday night soon!
I've been only going to the quarters because I've been focusing on getting the bike and myself dialed in. It's easier for me to do both of those, without at the same time trying to compete against someone. That said, I finally feel like I've got the bike (and me) set up OK, so planning to hit a Wednesday night soon!
