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Fixing Rusted Out Gas Tank

I only have one complaint to make on this thread Ed... there's no pic's!

Good luck, sounds like it's going to turn out a-OK...
 
Okay Pete, today was picture day.

Finished the derusting and patching today. Used phosphate wash to derust which leaves the metal a little dark. After rinsing the tank was doused in WD-40 to reduce the flash rust tendency.

Have some Caswell's sealer on the way. Going to use the entire batch to reinforce the patched areas.

The worst is over, but will be glad when this thing is all done. I'll most likely sell it so if anyone needs a serviceable skunk tank, please PM me.




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Quite the project Ed. Seems like a lot of effort to sell it, were you bored and needing something to work on?
 
I was looking for a project, but had no idea it would be so much work. Seller said the tank was sound, just needed a failed liner stripped. NOT!
 
Ed, you were right, that must have been one heck of a leaking tank to try and plug up.

Is it your plan to grind away most of the patches, leave them in place and hammer them down so you can resurface the underside, or just leave it like it is and concentrate on the top side after you re-line it.

Just curious...
 
I used the caswell stuff on the GS400 and had it thinned too as others said it was TOO THICK..I thinned it slightly per the instructions with laquer thinner.

It was still VERY thick and wouldn't swish around in the tank even if I held it steady for 5 minutes.. it was way too thick. at approx 70 degrees ambient.

I think I'd thin it out MORE, but test it first with a small portion, then thin out as needed. If you put it into the tank and it's too thick, you'll end up trying to put more into the tank like I did and the bottom was coated with 1/2 inch!!! plus I used ALL OF IT.

if it werre thinned out more, you will have better luck ..i think!
 
It looks nice Ed. The brazing looks pretty flat. Maybe I should just turn mine into a lamp or mail box :eek:.

cg
 
rustybronco said:
Ed, you were right, that must have been one heck of a leaking tank to try and plug up.

Is it your plan to grind away most of the patches, leave them in place and hammer them down so you can resurface the underside, or just leave it like it is and concentrate on the top side after you re-line it.

Just curious...
Click to expand...

Dale,

The outside braze filler has been ground down and just need a bondo skim coat. The bottom won't show so thinking about leaving it alone.

You think I should try to hide the patches?
 
Nessism said:
Dale,

The outside braze filler has been ground down and just need a bondo skim coat. The bottom won't show so thinking about leaving it alone.

You think I should try to hide the patches?
Click to expand...
How much do plan on asking for it? If you are trying for the upper ranges after its finished (say $500), then yes it will require the bottom side to look nice.

It all depends on the selling price and how well do you think the tank will survive without the patches in place. Personally, knowing your handy work, I'd try finishing the bottom side a wee bit better and test a skunk tank price limit. Keep in mind this tank went for $215. http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/320994066282?item=320994066282&ViewItem=&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

After looking at the tank's underside a few more times, I'd say skim coat what you can, blend the large patch's edges into the tank by grinding or with filler as best you can, then call it good enough.
 
rustybronco said:
After looking at the tank's underside a few more times, I'd say skim coat what you can, blend the large patch's edges into the tank by grinding or with filler as best you can, then call it good enough.
Click to expand...

Dale,

Wasn't planning on doing a full restore. Just get it ready for paint. I'll follow your recommendation as noted. As for selling price, at this point I just want to get my money back plus a nominal effort payment. All the restore chemicals add up: acetone, phosphate wash, sealer, ect.

Dan has a skunk tank we will do next, so now that I'm warmed up that one should go quickly (hopefully there are no holes). That tank is more worthy of making right, this one is best targeted by someone with a runner, not a full restoration.
 
Nessism said:
Dan has a skunk tank we will do next, so now that I'm warmed up that one should go quickly (hopefully there are no holes). That tank is more worthy of making right, this one is best targeted by someone with a runner, not a full restoration.
Click to expand...
Now that I know your intent for it, I agree, best used as a daily runner. It's too bad the seller wasn't a bit more forthright about it's condition or at least took the time to properly look it over before selling it to you or it could have been a money maker for you.

On good thing about it, the topside of the tank should look excellent after it painted!
 
There will come a time in the not too distant future where even the condition of that tank will be considered a bargain. Finding a clean one is getting harder and harder all the time. You did a lot of work on that tank, Ed. Nicely done. Might not hurt to get it pressure tested at a radiator repair shop after it's sealed just to ensure it's good to go. ;) Someone will be happy to get it, for sure.
 
Any idea on price? I have a 79E in bad shape and am looking for a reolacement. I'm sure with enough time and effort mine could be saved,but for now am looking for another.
Bill
 
This one is slightly different to a 79 (the 78 is more attractive in my opinion). Just thought I'd point that out.

It will fit though, the only difference is the side flashes... Matching tailpieces can be found relatively cheaply. :)

Ed - I wouldn't sell that tank too cheap, most "ebay" tanks are a lucky lottery to internal condition, leaks etc.
Having a dent free tank that is leak free & sealed on the inside plus can be finished to perfection if required on the outside is worth a lot, especially when you have pictures like these to back up the work done.

:)
 
That's some good work Ed! Looks like she'll hold up mighty fine with some fuel in there :)

Thanks for the pic's, sorry haven't been on all week..
 
Wound up using WD-40 to stop any flash rusting. Then washed out the WD-40 after a few days using acetone.

The exterior sheet metal on this tank is in really good condition, other than the rusting issue. Filled a couple of shallow dents and put a thin skim coat over my braze repair areas. Next thing to do is seal the inside.

During the last few weeks the tank has taken on a dark gray patina where the phosphate reacted with the metal. On the inside the dark gray is supplemented with some grayish green color from the oxalic acid sauce originally used. To be honest, it looks pretty ugly. The Caswell's tank sealer Epoxy is clear and this grungyness is going to show though unless I can figure out how to clean it up some. Thinking about one last round with the aquarium rocks and some solvent to see if I can physically scrub down the metal a little before sealing. Not sure how the body filler will react to the solvent though.

Any suggestions?
 
Well aquarium gravel is fairly smooth maybe mix it with some granules of pumice or other abrasive?
 
Not a clue at all.

http://www.finishing.com/59/57.shtml
If the phosphate has been sealed with oil you will need to degrease first. Cold inhibited HCl will totally remove phosphate without damaging the steel surface.
Click to expand...
http://www.finishing.com/70/46.shtml
Straight HCl will attack steel as well as scale and rust. Inhibited HCl has organic additives that tend to coat the cleaned steel to inhibit the attack on the steel, directing more of the power of the acid into dissolving rust. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I would 'think' an abrasive should work as well.
 
rustybronco said:
Not a clue at all.

http://www.finishing.com/59/57.shtml
http://www.finishing.com/70/46.shtml

I would 'think' an abrasive should work as well.
Click to expand...

Holy crap man, most of that stuff is beyond me. Just want to seal up this tank, and not scare the crap out of the next owner when they look inside. Too bad Caswell's didn't color the sealer silver like Por-15.

So my main question at this point is whether or not the body sealer will be damaged by contact with solvents, or maybe alcohol?
 
Again my two cents.

If there is any solvent (alcohol) leakage from the repaired tank into the body filler, I'd consider the filler suspect after that point.
 
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