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For those with pods - what to do with breather hose?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JimmyR
  • Start date Start date
On my '78 I just used a "ricer" looking breather/filter from O'Reilly's hose-clamped onto the nipple on the cam cover.
 
I've accepted your challenge Jimmy...

I'm sick of seeing this:



So this is going together to make a catch tank:

 
There wouldn't be enough clearance around the base of the pod to tap into with any sort of hose fitting, and I wouldn't be surprised if that would affect the air flow either... although I'm certainly no guru on that, which is the other reason not to interfere with them :)
 
sorry, i was referring to tapping thru the top of the pod with a 90 degree elbow. we do this with air-cooled VW motors that get switched to dual carbs and lose the stock airbox
 
hampshirehog said:
Triumphs and BSAs just run the hose out along the rear mudguard - special hose as well, witha D shape cross section so it tucks in nicely on the mudguard. I guess our guys thought it ok to drip oil out as long as it was behind you.

And if you think a proper catch tank (meets racing standards) sell for just $10:

http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/parts-in-aluminium/oil-tank-round/prod_6.html
Click to expand...

That would be an excellent product to use but isn't 56 pounds closer to about $70 U.S. Dollars?

Eric
 
There's s afew people selling "go kart catch can" on eBay. I've seen guys running those on bikes. Size is appropriate. And they're cheap.
 
what tooo do with breather pipe,,,,,

what tooo do with breather pipe,,,,,

hi guys,,,, all right its not gs ,,,,,,,,but mikesxs sells chrome breather filters that you can stuff in the end of the hose and a light clamp fairly cheap to buy regards oldgrumpy :):):)
 
I think I'll stick with the PVC jobby... so far it looks like it'll work, and will have set me back $15 for the breather filter, $10 for the hose fittings, and the rest is stuff I have laying around...
 
Reviving an old thread just a bit.

I recently worked with GSR here who had something of an interesting set up. (At present I'm just letting my hose dangle and was searching for a K&N air breather part number when I found this thread).

As mentioned previously, one fellow connected the hose back to the pods.

The guy I worked with had gone to home depot and bought a number of L fittings and and thick gauge hose and run into each of the pods.

What seems to make a bit of sense to me now is that the suction from the pods should add at least a little of vacuum pressure, which others say the bike actually likes. Additionally, and oil that is pulled simply ends up burning in the engine (which may not be the worst thing from a lubrication standpoint too).

Personally, I've yet to see anything leak out of my hose but then I haven't really done any distance riding recently, so perhaps that has something to do with it.
 
I just got a longer hose and routed it so it exits behind and down around the rear shock area. I don't know if I would want oil vapor (or worse, the condensate mixture of oil and water vapor) going through the carbs.
 
I drained mine about a week or so ago for the first time since installing it as I could see there was some fluid in it when leaning on the side stand. I knew the sight glass in the side idea would be helpful :)

Turns out there was bugger all in it... but I'm still glad I didn't have to clean that off the battery box cover...
 
OldVet66 said:
I just installed a Hayden Krank vent plus on the breather with a K&N filter. It seems to me that the old Zooks like 3 to 5 lbs. of vacuum in the crank case. It immediately smoothed out the idle and it seems to, "by the seat of my pants", have more low end grunt. I just did the Maiden Hayden run this afternoon and haven't had time to really check it out. As it was explained to me, by Hayden, The real benefit is at high rpm where the pulses in and out of the breather become so fast that it effectively sets up an air dam allowing a positive pressure to build up in the crankcase. The Krank Vent Plus is ported so the umbrella valve that is only one way (out) can only produce a 3 to 5 lb vacuum, but it is consistent over the rpm range. I have seen it work on a early Harly evolution motor, with blown base gaskets that immediately stop leaking with the introduction of the Krank Vent. I'm looking forward to some high speed runs, but that isn't in the cards for the daily commute. I'll have to check out the schedules at Summit Point for the high speed tests.
Click to expand...
I think you should post your full findings of the performance of the Hayden Vent. Here is a lower cost copy of the Hayden. Its a pretty simple device. A one way vent. Lowers crankcase pressure, smooths idle, easing pressure off pistons and reducing oil blowby. Pretty cool. Here is the cheap one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CASE-BREATH...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d028df13f&vxp=mtr
 
heavily debated Modification on the KLR's.... They use a Mercedes turbo wastegate reed valve.

Pages of info on many forums for anyone interested. There was one on mine when I bought it & I haven't bothered to take it off... (so I can't comment if it's doing any good or not).

Link to one of the threads:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=3904
 
Speaking of the breather system...I just rebuilt my 1100e engine and made my breather cover gasket from some stock gasket material I had to save a few bucks.
Anyways, I went on e bay and looked at the other ones for sale for reference as to the cut out configuration. The only hole in the gasket (at least on mine) is a small 5/8ths hole in the front left corner of the gasket.
Is this a engineered hole? meaning does it have an effect on the pressure of the crankcase letting just the right amount of pressure out or keeping just the right pressure in?
Would any releif of pressure be increased or improved if the hole was bigger or if the majority of the gasket was removed being fully open?
I guess the breather hose is still the same size no matter how much the breather cover gasket is open.
Any thoughts , ideas, or more ramble on this matter from anyone?
 
cableguy said:
I just got a longer hose and routed it so it exits behind and down around the rear shock area. I don't know if I would want oil vapor (or worse, the condensate mixture of oil and water vapor) going through the carbs.
Click to expand...


I find your comment here to be a bit funny.

Before I installed the pods where did this hose go? Hmmm....
It went into the forward airbox, not the rear airbox. This pretty much means that whatever gets aspirated into the airbox can in fact make it back into the Carbs. If the engineers wanted to avoid that they could have routed the hose to the rear airbox where at least the air filter would act as a baffle preventing the oil from getting back into the carbs.

I don't see any of this being an issue b/c minimally it's similar to how a 2 stroke functions and, at least in my bike, there's no significant volume of oil coming up.

I think I'm going to plug the hose up with something in order to increase the back pressure a bit. I don't think I'm gonna spend $40-$50 doing it though.

With regards to the last post here I'm not quite sure if the breather is outbound or inbound. My guess would be out and that the smaller the hole in the gasket the more back pressure there'd be. If I'm wrong and the hose has some sort of inbound cycle than I'd worry about anything that could disintegrate and flow back into the crank and probably go for more of the metal unit.
 
got myself one of these little beauties. perfect size, drain screw, level indicator, 2 inlets, 1 for crankcase breather and 1 for valve cover breather hose.
strangely,for a breather catch tank there is no vent to the atmosphere but that just needs a small hole drilled in the top with a small length of coiled hose attatched. dont see the point of fitting a filter as its only to expel fumes so a filter is not required.
not bad for ?20..............

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261048963...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_731wt_1037
 
Last edited:
Wirelessguy, I know where the old hose was routed but is that the best design? The goal was to have a closed system to meet EPA requirements. If my bike was fuel injected I would have no issue with routing back through the intake but I don't want even the chance of blowby vapors from my 28 year old motor of getting in my carbs. I figure if it's eliminated then it can't be a factor if/when a problem arises. It's not the motor won't run with that crap going through it but I certainly don't want it to.
 
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