Forks, wheels, WHOA - I'm a bit overwhelmed

[MilesDad]

I just bought a GS750, 1981, with 3000 miles on it. I want a relatively stock-ish/classic look as I refurbish this beauty, but wonder about the front forks. I am a bit divided on the leading axle, and have thought of going to the 82 version's forks, or going with those of a (non-leading axle) 1100E.
What makes sense here? Will the 1100E forks bolt right on? They are larger diameter, so maybe I could go without a fork brace. Do I stick with the stock forks and just put better springs and a brace on them?
Are there other easy-to-install options? I don't prefer to change out a lot of other bits just for better forks. Wheels, gauges, etc., would preferably stay.
I just can't figure out what makes sense.

I apologize if this has been asked already, but this abundance of information can become overwhelming to a new GS-er.
Thanks in advance.

 

[jwhelan65]

Leave it stock, first off do all the proper maintenance, oil change, brakes, plugs, battery check. You have a low mileage classic don't tear it up.

 

[tkent02]

For what purpose will this bike be ridden? Road racing? Drag racing? Long distance touring? Beer runs? Slow riding with the HD crowd?
You want comfort or do you want handling? Both?
The forks on that 750 work pretty well as they are.
The bike handles well enough for most in mostly stock form, but with upgraded suspension only.
Get some decent springs, maybe a pair of emulators, good to go.
For high performance riding, some folks like braces, some don't.

 

[MilesDad]

I don't plan to "tear it up," which is the choice I made when I sought a "classic" bike. I do, however, want something that is reasonably stable and safe.
I am not a crazy rider, but had, once, a wobble in a long, sweeping turn on my other bike, which was scary, to be honest. I just want to be able to turn moderately sportedly (if that's a word) without the forks getting unsettled. I am not what I'd call an aggressive rider. I don't do stunts, I don't go for top speed, but I do like the acceleration of a motorcycle.

I do understand what needs to be done to the bike, being relatively untouched for a long time. I have a million things in my head, and am trying to sort out the details.

 

[Steve]

Simply changing to non-leading-axle forks will bring up a bunch of complications, too.

Because the wheel will be moved back, the trail will change, making it harder to turn. It will be more stable, however.

You will have to get a complete front end to do it effectively. Besides the triple trees, you will need the fender, calipers and everything else, including the speedo drive.

Sounds like an awful lot of work for ... er ... why was it you wanted to change? :-k

.

 

[gearhead13]

I swapped on an '82 1100 front end, bigger fork tubes, preload, damping and air adjustments, and I found out that my 750 lower triple was steel vs aluminum on the 1100

 

[bwringer]

Before making changes, whether it's engine, suspension, or gluing Hello Kitty dolls all over, FIRST get the bike functioning correctly.

Let's assume you've already installed some nice sportish tires -- Avon RoadRiders are my fave, but Pirelli Sport Demon, Bridgestone BT45, and a few others are good as well. (Avoid older designs, such as the Dunlop 501 and 404, or the Bridgestone S11.)


First, install Progressive or Sonic Springs fork springs ($80-ish) with nice clean fork oil and set sag properly for your weight and riding style.

Ooh, better, huh?


Then, drop about $200 - $250 on Progressive or Hagon shocks and springs. (If you're feeling flush, you can get VERY nice Ikon shocks for around $350 - $400.)

Niiiiiiiice, eh?


You might also need to change the swingarm bearings if they're wiggly, and you will certainly need to install new steering stem bearings. A Total Control Riding class or three will also help upgrade your skills.

I guarantee that with these few inexpensive updates your bike will handle far better than you can imagine.

 

[Steve]

... I guarantee that with these few inexpensive updates your bike will handle far better than you can imagine.

Many times, the BEST improvement on a bike is to adjust the nut that holds the handlebars.

.

 

[tkent02]

Unlike Hondas and Kawasakis of the era, GSes had adequate frames for anything but full on racing.
If it's in good shape, it's as safe ans stable as they come.
Speed wobbles are not a problem.