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Four into one rejet

My DJ kit for the 1000G was a stage 1/3. I haven't used any of the stage 1 jets, so I too have some thrown in a drawer.
 
While everyone is on the subject got any links to pictures of this needle valve spacer adjustment stuff?
Just so you know, ... it's not the needle valve that gets "spaced". :o

The needle valve is what allows gas to get into the float bowl. What you are asking about is the jet needle, that long thing that sticks out the bottom of the slide. To adjust that, you need to remove the slides (might not have to remove the carbs from the bike, if you're lucky), then remove the circlip that is down at the bottom. Sears offers a set of 5 1/2" needle-nose pliers that work well for this (about $10). Carefully remove the nylon post that the circlip was holding, then push the needle up from the bottom. You will see a little e-clip at the top, with a thick nylon spacer (~4mm) above it and a thin metal washer and a spring below it. The spring pushes up on the needle, so you need to adjust the thickness of the nylon spacer if you want to raise the needle. Find the washers that fit the needle AND slide down the hole, see how many of them equal the thickness of the spacer, then cut that number in half. Re-assemble, install the slide/diaphragm, ride. On the BS (CV) carbs there will be no need to re-sync the carbs, as you did nothing with the throttle linkage.

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You will see a little e-clip at the top, with a thick nylon spacer (~4mm) above it and a thin metal washer and a spring below it. The spring pushes up on the needle, so you need to adjust the thickness of the nylon spacer if you want to raise the needle.

It looked like, by the order you're saying, my bike's P.O. moved the OEM spacers to below the e-clip and replaced them with thin washers on top of the e-clip.

So, the way it should be, from the top down, is the new spacer/washer, the e-clip, a metal washer and the spring on bottom.
 
If you only have a thin metal washer above the e-clip, your needles are already "shimmed" or raised, and about the equivalent of 1.5 notches.

I see in one of your previous posts that you mentioned "airbox", so I presume that's somewhat standard and in place. You still have stock exhaust? If so, you may want to lower your needles a bit. Maybe to a point that would be about one thin washer above stock. This would be about the equivalent of raising it about 1/2 a notch, richening the mid-range just a bit. Do you still have the nylon washers there, too?

How do your plugs look? If your needles are raised that much, you will notice some rich running and possible reduced gas mileage, along with darker plugs.

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While everyone is on the subject got any links to pictures of this needle valve spacer adjustment stuff?
Just so you know, ... it's not the needle valve that gets "spaced". :o

The needle valve is what allows gas to get into the float bowl. What you are asking about is the jet needle, that long thing that sticks out the bottom of the slide. To adjust that, you need to remove the slides (might not have to remove the carbs from the bike, if you're lucky), then remove the circlip that is down at the bottom. Sears offers a set of 5 1/2" needle-nose pliers that work well for this (about $10). Carefully remove the nylon post that the circlip was holding, then push the needle up from the bottom. You will see a little e-clip at the top, with a thick nylon spacer (~4mm) above it and a thin metal washer and a spring below it. The spring pushes up on the needle, so you need to adjust the thickness of the nylon spacer if you want to raise the needle. Find the washers that fit the needle AND slide down the hole, see how many of them equal the thickness of the spacer, then cut that number in half. Re-assemble, install the slide/diaphragm, ride. On the BS (CV) carbs there will be no need to re-sync the carbs, as you did nothing with the throttle linkage.

.
 
I have the factory airbox and have sealed every hole and crack that I could see. There is a 4-1 exhaust.
 
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