FR caliper holder doesn't fit

[claygs750e]

Ok, so I did a full brake job (new SS lines, pistons, cleaned and pained) and now putting everything back on, but the right front caliper mount won't fit. When I bought the bike he was only using the left caliper, but had all the hardware for the right side so I figured I would install both. The left one mounts just fine, but as you can see on the picture the right mount hits both the right rotor and the mounting hole on the forks? Any ideas why? Could I possibly be missing a washer on the axle?

EDIT: I answered my own question. I was missing the washer near the axle nut.

 

[Guest]

Ok, so I did a full brake job (new SS lines, pistons, cleaned and pained) and now putting everything back on, but the right front caliper mount won't fit. When I bought the bike he was only using the left caliper, but had all the hardware for the right side so I figured I would install both. The left one mounts just fine, but as you can see on the picture the right mount hits both the right rotor and the mounting hole on the forks? Any ideas why? Could I possibly be missing a washer on the axle?

EDIT: I answered my own question. I was missing the washer near the axle nut.

BAZINGA!:clap:

 

[claygs750e]

Well I thought I found the problem, but I guess not. So when you look at t he attached picture I was missing the washers next to the axle nut (#9). Even with those on I think the forks are going inward too much and not giving the right side enough space between the rotor and caliper bracket. I know I must be missing something stupid.

When looking at the picture #8 is supposed to through through the fork with the big end out correct?

Please help?

 

[chuck hahn]

Got the axle spacers facing the right way Theres a shoulder that has to go the rim and the fork hits against it so you cant tighten it too much and draw the fork in..which will also make the caliper jam all up in there like your describing.

 

[chuck hahn]

Its actually shown backwards on the fiche..turn them so the shoulders are on the rim side and tighten the forks against the shoulders.

 

[claygs750e]

Looking at the diagram it looked like the shoulder went out through the forks?

 

[claygs750e]

So basically flip it so the shoulder is on the inside of the fork then? ugh, I'm an idiot. thanks

 

[chuck hahn]

Yes...the shoulder hits against the inside of the fork where the axle bolt goes thru. the spacer is jammed between the bearing cover and the speedo gear drive and thus keeps the legs from drawing in and bowing like they did on you.

ALSO ALSO ALSO.....Hook up the speedo cable and be sure the two dogs on the speedo gear drive mesh with the spots on the rim and dont gorilla tighten the axle bolt..it will squish the tabs and bend them. Then the speedo wont work right.

Get the speedo cable hooked up and be sure the arrow on the drive is pointing up and paralell to the fork. Hold the axle with a phillips screwdriver to keep the axle from turning the drive assembly as you tighten the nut.. And this also keeps from kinking off the speedo cable itself.Follow me??

 

[claygs750e]

Okay I follow everything you said except "the arrow on the drive is pointing up and parallel to the fork?" Not sure what you mean there. I did flip the spacer and its great now and the speed is in the grooves you mentioned

 

[cowboyup3371]

There is an arrow on the speedo gear that needs to be pointing parallel to the fork

 

[claygs750e]

The arrow I see is on the main shaft near the "made in Japan" print and it's pointing at a 45 degree angle toward the front down of the bike. If I try to point it up and down there's a hump on the other side that pushes it out too far.

 

[chuck hahn]

As long as the speedo cable is straight comming off the gear drive and you dont kink it as you tighten the bolt is all good.

 

[Steve]

There are different speedo drives for the bikes with leading-axle forks. For them, the locator bumps and the arrows are in different locations.

The only really important parts are to have the two drive tabs properly engaged and to have the cable coming out the back so that it is not kinked.

.

 

[claygs750e]

I think I'm good then because it is engaged in the two tabs and does come out the back. The cable goes downward slightly, but no kink and everything buttoned up nicely. Thanks again guys....8 months for this build and almost done!