free roving third driven pinion. gsx1100ex

[engel]

hi. currently have the donk out of dads 81 gsx1100 as shes been popping over in third under even light load like a sprag clutch. have found the two part lock washer that holds one side of the pinion/bush to have broken its three locating lugs and the two parts turning together letting the pinion shift on the bushing and shaft.

the washer and one of its lugs is one the righthand side of the above picture in the clutch cavity. also witness the gnarl marks in the bearing cap and

gouging where first has at some stage taken a mouthful of alloy from the housing at a rough guess when the clutch side output shaft bearing has failed and spun in spite of the pegging. can't see any damage to the C-ring that locates it so something was amiss at one stage.

if you take a look at where the middle lower gear is in these two pictures in relation to themating gear and the shaft of the screwdriver against it you'll see how far the pinion has been able to float

and in this next i was able to physically lock the two shafts by slipping the teeth of third between the dogs on 5th driving gear while second was engaged. can't occur while the box is in motion due to rotation preventing them engaging as such but still quite scary.

all the selector fork to groove clearances are in order and otherwise she changes fine so i'll have a look at the rest of the bush/bearings on the two shafts and go from there.

this isn't quite what i expected to find before i pulled her down. has this ever happened to anyone else or is it just the result of ill handling by whatever previous monkey put it together?

anyone got a new selector fork they could measure the diameter of the shift drum engaging pin for me please and/or the groove to pin clearance in the drum itself? lastly a limit of axial play on the first and second driven pinions on their bush/caged needle roller please as second when not in mesh with its driving gear seems to have a lot of flop to it.

thanks again for your patient reading, glen.

 

[engel]

got the cluster a bit further open. the circlip against second driven and the thrust washers on fist have copped it pretty bad. the gears don't seem too damaged however. small mercies.

 

[Guest]

Turn the flash off. I can't see much.
Check the dogs before reassembly.
It would be great if it was just a circlip!

 

[engel]

dogs aren't horrific and with the healthier circlip from third gear in the slot for second most of the slop has left it. a mate is sourcing the bushes and spacers and clips for me and i'll drop in new selectors for that shaft while i'm at it. has also been a good excuse to hoik the main crank seal which was lightly weeping after its hibernation.

a look up the bores shows a few light hone marks and the suzuki logo cast on the pistons so till something drastic occurs and i need to dismantle the top end i'm assuming shes standard throughout and the engine side of things is in good fettle.

 

[engel]

got the clutch shaft and its cluster home today. a measure of first through second with verniers showed 111.4 mm at the teeth. the dogs on fourth and fifth have been background at some time so the shaft has been stripped down and reassembled. but there seemed to be a large amount of side play of fifth driving gear. i'm wondering if perhaps the measurement is to be made from the outer edge that sits against the spring washers and bearing rather than from the teeth edge as how this one has been reassembled. photo in the manual isn't greatly clear. i have access to a hydraulic press and sandwich plates if needed.

am pricing bearings, clips and other parts locally and if they're extortionate i think partshark will see some more of my custom. so far the cost of the two selector forks is double what they're after from the states and i fear the bearings will be the same case. would prefer sooner rather than later but on a budget and not keen to have a new one torn from a dealership that give you the "it's that guy again, why can't he just buy one of our new bikes that we stock parts for" look.

could just be the way my circuitry is wired but today i ordered a customer a rebuild kit for a 3 cyl diesel ford 4000 super dexta tractor thats been out of production at least 40 years, and i was wrapped to hear about his vehicle and how long he's had it in the family and how faithful it's been and thats why he's treating it to a freshen up.

yes he also has new tractors but feels no attachment to the soulless electronic beasts of burden and is doing this rebuild himself because he knows what goes where and doesn't need a laptop computer to turn on the headlights.

as always, thanks for your time. glen.

 

[engel]

all new parts turned up from partshark while i was in germany on holidays for a month. all tranny bearings, bushings, spacers, circlips, lockrings and a multitude of other small bits are now replaced and that definitely feels a lot better. have bought duplicates of the bearings and a few spare circlips so should the need ever arise, it'll be in pieces a lot shorter time.

all tinware and plastic is at present with my neighbour copping its previously alluded to laverda orange hue so theres no rush on getting it all back together, and i'll need some threebond and loctite and a fresh bottle of oil before it gets the full reassembly but its nice to see the gear clusters back together and all the play removed.

 

[engel]

cases are back together and so far so good. will be slipping the engine back into the frame tuesday or wednesday evening out at mum and dads. will be nice to hand it back over to him in one functioning piece again. have allotted a little time as well to do some running repairs on the vincent so i can go on another ride with him when the suzi is ready.

 

[engel]

tinkerbell is back together and has on occasions run like a train. the box seems to have respected the new circlips and bearings and is handling all throttle applications just fine. had a spark plug crack at the insulator tonight all the way through while plucking a plug lead and then fire out the electrode from the ceramic nose. sounds like a dredging pump but chasing a new plug tomorrow to get it home to dads. not a bad bike as a 805 cc triple but feels better as a 4. got me home but. resplendent in her new paint too.

 

[Charlie G]

I have a friend who is willing to give me a 1000g. The 1-2 gears keep popping out and need a going through. You made tearing into the tranny sound easy. Could offer an opinion on weither I should take this bike on? I figure I have the space to work on it and am not in a hurry because I have two other bikes to ride. I could muddle through the bike and get it back into shape. Mind you I've never taken on anything related with a transmission.

I know what it's like to walk into a dealership and get that look..."Oh him, why dosen't he get a Modern bike."

Nice to see you posting again but sorry to see trouble keep popping continually. Good luck with finishing it up and back over to your Dad place.

Charlie G

 

[engel]

if its part dead and free charl, then grab it and have some fun and learning all at once.

you may find a small or big problem but either way its experience. and parts are often cheap and affordable overall if you do the work yourself.




hint: do the work to remove while having the odd scotch, and reassemble with rum. add spice to the job.

 

[Charlie G]

I like this wrenching advise 1-scotch 2-rum.

Sounds lke my three beer pot roast. 1-open beer,start fire, cut vegtables, 2- brown meat in dutch oven, open beer 3- add vegtables, open beer, place dutch oven on coals (camp fire), finish beer and take nap. 21/2 hours later when you awake, dinner is done. ( subsitute wine, scotch or rum to taste) Most effective at 6000' alpine lakes and cool summer breeze.

I'll give it a try. Thanks!

Charlie G

 

[engel]

dutch oven has a very different meaning in my locale. yes there's a fuel source, yes there is generated heat, and an aroma is generated that might have at one stage had something to do with food. i believe the similarities would end there.

dutch ovens here refer to the practice of farting in bed and trapping the accumulated warmth and smells under the covers to avoid asphyxiation. i strongly advise against the use of coals in such a situation lest a moon expedition is on your "List of things to do".

re the GS thou: i don't see anything to be lost by havin a hack at it. basic tools and methods are all you should need. i was able to dead lift the motor near intact (sans carbs, wiring, pipes and countershaft sprocket cover) in and out of the frame by myself so its not like the whole job is unmanageable. besides, it's kinda fun splitting the cases to see what nightmares fate and and the voodoo gods of mechanisation have in store for you.

 

[Charlie G]

dutch oven has a very different meaning in my locale. yes there's a fuel source, yes there is generated heat, and an aroma is generated that might have at one stage had something to do with food. i believe the similarities would end there.

dutch ovens here refer to the practice of farting in bed and trapping the accumulated warmth and smells under the covers to avoid asphyxiation. i strongly advise against the use of coals in such a situation lest a moon expedition is on your "List of things to do".

re the GS thou: i don't see anything to be lost by havin a hack at it. basic tools and methods are all you should need. i was able to dead lift the motor near intact (sans carbs, wiring, pipes and countershaft sprocket cover) in and out of the frame by myself so its not like the whole job is unmanageable. besides, it's kinda fun splitting the cases to see what nightmares fate and and the voodoo gods of mechanisation have in store for you.

I never know what I write is going to mean down under in the land of OZ. A Dutch Oven here is a pot with a lid which you set on the coals and on the lid to bake food, while camping. I like your difinition, it has character.

cg