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Front sprocket spindle. worn

ukjules

Forum Sage
I think my front sprocket spindle is worn
(on the old engine) (new one is fine)
- this engine has done 72,000 miles.

I bought a new sprocket and it is loose
on old engine but ok on new one meaning
the spindle is at fault.
Nothing noticeable while riding and also
I found it to be loose !!!
My mistake as had not checked it for a
long long time.

This means a engine strip down and new spindle?

Also the clutch push rod seems loose. loose
at the engine inside end where on new engine
it is nice and tight.

(take it as read I am guilty of neglect on
my GS as it is the one bike that just keeps going
while you do up others)

20201117_104213_resize_19.jpg
 
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That output shaft doesn't look too bad. The splines are still intact. Nothing available new afaik - and a used one won't be any better.
Just tighten the retaining nut properly next time.

You won't know what the story is with the clutch pushrod until the clutch is off the other end.
It may be as simple as one engine having a one piece pushrod - and the other a two-piece.
 
do any Suzuki fsm. sugges using a paste on output shaft splines?
mine are a bit free but nit wobbly
I recall the Suzuki shop mechanic fighting to remove my original sprocket nut
gave up used a nut splitter
recently a friend lost a chain (scotoilers suck it seems)
anyhow case damage aside he was also saying it was blood curdling removing the sprocket
I think folks use improper techniques and they loosen
maybe the factory employs a wizard to wish me on
 
(scotoilers suck it seems)
anyhow case damage aside he was also saying it was blood curdling removing the sprocket
I think folks use improper techniques and they loosen
maybe the factory employs a wizard to wish me on

my own experiences with scotoilers has been good, I had it on my hayabusa, tl100s, RF900RW And 2 GSX750F's
and never had to adjust a chain between tyre changes.
Personally regarding front sprocket removal a powerful air/battery rattle gun does the trick with a stout piece of wood across the swing arm threaded through the cast spokes if none available a long heavy duty strong arm on the socket does the trick if you have a second person get them to tap on the sprocket whilst you are putting pressure on the strong arm.
 
I tend to agree ...it was my lack of
mechanical checking and simply not doing it up
tight enough.

even with the slight looseness I can solve that
with a socket and bar.
being so lax I cant even recall if I torqued
it properly. an outrage.
 
do any Suzuki fsm. sugges using a paste on output shaft splines?
mine are a bit free but nit wobbly
I recall the Suzuki shop mechanic fighting to remove my original sprocket nut
gave up used a nut splitter
recently a friend lost a chain (scotoilers suck it seems)
anyhow case damage aside he was also saying it was blood curdling removing the sprocket
I think folks use improper techniques and they loosen
maybe the factory employs a wizard to wish me on

Hi, from the photo it looks like the spline is toast. I always use a anti sieze past on the threads and spline, don't know if it helps for wear but it does prevent rust. Rust= wear. I use a air impact for removal holding the sprocket with a gloved hand. It does take some skill and experience to tighten the nut to the proper torque using a impact.
 
On looking in more detail and attempting to
do up new final drv sprocket on new engine I noticed it needed
a 32mm socket. (I dont have)
The old one was 30mm socket.

checking more :
new engine final drv - m20*1.25 shaft with 32mm nut
thread in good order
old engine - m19*2.0 with 30mm nut
thread works but butchered. so prob came undone

it looks like the old one has been butchered on the thread
which goes with how the bike has been mistreated.
I missed that .... guilty of bike neglect on the GS.

Will return to this when I recon old engine.
Off to spend Vacuum pipe money on socket and gasket cutter ...
 
Final drive spindle.
As per details I am gonna have to strip the old engine
and sort this spindle. I have all the time in the world
to do this as have the new second engine on bike.

Basically the thread is butchered and the nut too.

So its either 2nd hand one - unlikely
or
To an engineering works for rethreading the spindle
and a corresponding nut .
So it would end up a m18 * 1.25
( original is m20 * 1.25)
- what's think that should be ok for torque of 60nm

the high level on this project is to strip
and make sound as my backup ......
 
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