fuel injected turbo katana

[Guest]

I have added a couple pics due to emails wanting to see the return line into the tank. 90 degree fitting with a 7 inch 3/8 ID stainless steel tube that I machined to fit inside AN 8 fitting.

There sure is a lot of wire to sort out between the EFI, katana harness and the Dyna ignition wires. As usual with products you buy for your resto-mod, the wiring is not fitted to your application necessarily so changes have to be made. Many of those changes are sizing and fitting connectors to the wiring. The Dyna 2000 comes with about 4 feet more harness than you need. I have cut/sized most of the wiring now which includes soldering, crimping and shrink hose for all the turminals. When I could I used sheathing to cover multiple wires that you can get from your local or not so local vintage motorcycle shop.

I also suggest investing in quality electrical tape, and the quality crimper. When shortening wires I cut and solder back together then double shrink wrap before sheathing. Things aren't looking so cluttered now but more work is needed. As you can see in the pics I made a tin cover for the wiring to help clean up the look of things. I am not sure if it is working for me or not. If you are wondering what the polished plate is with the two gold resisters on it is, they are needed for the injectors. I could use the "SIMPLY DIGITAL SYSTEMS" controler for the ignition but I prefer to use the Dyna 2000 system.

The Dyna 2000 has a retard, safety switch, rev limiter and multiple advance curves. By keeping the ignition and fuel seperate, it is less complicated to trouble shoot and set up. I have yet to finish the wheels as there has been some reaction issues with the paint, combined with some chilly days in the shop. I am waiting for a milder day to finish them and get them off for tire mounting.

 

[Guest]

is that cap properly vented i installed a aftermarket aircraft style cap and it spits fuel when hot

Sorry Steve, missed your question.
Yes, it is suposed to be anyway. It is a replacement cap for a harley sportster. It is a harley part, not aftermarket.

 

[Guest]

Bit of a setback today with the usb charger. I spent hrs last night de-soldering and re-soldering to get the iphone charging with this new board. Everything was working fine so I encapsulated it with epoxy.
Today I machined up a frame for the volt meter and wired up the usb, activation switch and the volt meter. I am using a switch so I can control when these items are active. The usb port uses power even when nothing is pluged in (I am told) as well as the volt meter. So, now, I can turn everything on only when I want to check volt status of the battery, or use the usb plug. The volt meter is to monitor battery status generally but also to keep track while charging is happening when the bike is parked and turned off. I don't anticipate any issues with the new Lithium Iron battery I will be using.

I wired everything up and guess what, no charge to the iPhone. There seems to be a problem with the data lines, because as you can see below, the usb is out putting power. For most usb applications this would be fine but the iPhone is a odd duck and needs active data wires. So, back at it again when I receive some more boards.

The surrounds for the push button switch, volt meter and usb plug will probably be painted gloss black and not left raw aluminum. The volt meter is reading high because it is on charge.

YOUTUBE VID of it working :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyWztCHW8Ec

 

[Guest]

katana charging system

katana charging system

OK boys and girls. If you don't know already, the Suzuki charging system stinks. I recommend replacing the stator and the regulator / rectifier with aftermarket components before your harness melts and your battery boils over and explodes.
For the katana, there are two extra wires that are not needed. They are Green with White tracer, and White with Red tracer. The stator connects to one and the regulator / rectifier connects to the other. where do they go? They run through the harness upto the right hand control plug and loop around back. It is a very long way to connect the stator to the regulator / rectifier. A better idea is to just connect all three wires coming from the stator to the regulator.
The regulator will have two more wires. Black, which is ground and Red, which connects to the red wire on the harness which feeds the battery. The aftermarket stators and regulators all have the same color wires because it doesn't matter how you connect the three. Just plug them all into the regulator. In the picture below you can see the Red/white plugged into the Green/white. That is just a closed loop up to the right hand control plug and back down.
If you use another type of reg/rec it may have another wire which is probably the status wire that tells the reg/rec how the battery is. Connect that directly to the battery. If you don't, and connect it to a switched power wire, you run the risk of over charging the battery as the reg/rec may see less voltage due to resistance and corrosion in the wires.
A side note, there are two sizes of reg/rec controllers for the '82,'83 era katana. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators. As far as the katana is concerned, either regulator / rectifier will work on our bikes. It is just some have more wires than others. They will all do the same job. According to the techs at Electrosport.

 

[Guest]

530 sprocket conversion

530 sprocket conversion

The katana comes stock with a 630 pitch chain and sprockets. These are very heavy and not needed for the street. When it is time for new hardware, convert to a 530 pitch setup. The 530 and 630 sprockets are the same width or thickness but the 630 chain has more distance between each link. When converting to a 530 chain and sprockets there are a couple things you need to know. This is also important to those of you who are updating to a 5.5" gsxr wheel out back to take advantage of the larger footprint, safety and comfort of a radial tire and lets face it, to add meaness to the bike.

Ok, the first issue is size. If you go ahead and buy the matching tooth size to your stock sprockets you will be in trouble. In the pictures below, you can see a stock GS countershaft sprocket and a 530 sprocket side by side. The 530 sprocket is a little smaller than the 630. If you count the teeth you will see the 530 is actually 2 teeth larger than the 630 but is still smaller in diameter. What does this mean? Well, combined with the much smaller diameter of the rear sprocket, you run the risk of chain sawing through your swing arm pivot. A GS1100 katana uses a 15/42 chain set. Would it surprise you to find out that the same size rear 530 sprocket is 50 teeth? YOu are starting to get the picture. Finding the correct gear ratio depends on the rear tire, wheel and preference of the rider.

With a 5.5" gsxr rim and 180/55-17 tire on your katana, you would want a 17 tooth front sprocket with a 47 tooth rear. This will get you to within 0.5 mph of the stock ratio @ 4000 rpm when cruzing on the highway. For another example, if you are running a 130/90-17 tire you will need a 17 tooth front and a 50 tooth rear to match the stock ratio. At 8,500 rpm you are within one tenth of a mph of stock.

Next issue to consider is, the stock front sprocket is sandwiched between two plates. The inside plate has a larger hole to allow the countershaft bushing to but up against the steel sprocket. The outside of the sprocket, has a smaller in the plate and the lock nut buts up against it. In the pictures below I have illustrated this so you can see that there is a 6mm spacer on the stock 630 sprocket. The sprocket you see beside it is a sprocket of my own design that has the 6mm spacer built into it for ease of installation. These sprockets are only available from my website http://www.parts.suzuki-katana.com. Remember, the spacer goes to the outside. I get many, many emails regarding this confusion. If you look on the stock sprocket you can see three philips screws. Take them off and you are left with a flat sprocket. If you try to bolt up a 530 sprocket without the spacer, you will not be able to tighten up the locking nut as it will hit the spline on the output shaft before it comes in contact with the sprocket. This is where the spacer comes into play. Also available from my site is a custom designed aluminum rear sprocket, which is also exclusively to parts.suzuki-katana.com.

Now for the 5.5" gsxr wheel conversion. These rims are much wider than the stock rim so, an offset sprocket must be used to align the sprockets and chain. Generally speaking, a 5.5" wheel with a 180 tire will need a 5/8" offset sprocket to align the chain. This is in regard to installing this rim on a stock gs1100 katana swing arm. IF you are using a bandit swing arm then you need a custom offset sprocket, not the common 5/8' offset. At http://www.parts.suzuki-katana.com you can find the correct offset sprocket for a 5.5" bandit or gsxr rear rim.

For those who are new and are confused about gearing and ratios, there is a rule of thumb you can follow. For every tooth on the front sprocket that you add or subtract, you add or subtract three from the rear sprocket. So, add one tooth up front, add three in the rear to keep generally the same ratio. If you want a little more ummmph off the line and midrange liveliness, add a tooth or two, to the rear sprocket. Doing this will raise your highway cruzing rpm as you add teeth to the rear. So, the higher the number of teeth on the rear sprocket the higher your rpm at a given speed. A smaller sprocket on the rear will drop your rpm when cruzing at highway speed giving you better mileage, if that sort of thing interests you.

Couple things to note. When converting to 530 don't automatically think the chain will be much smaller and therefor you will have no clearance issues when moving to a larger rear wheel. You can actually buy a 530 chain that is wider than your stock 630 chain. For instance the DID 630v chain is 25.3mm wide (this is measured at the pin length) and their 530zvm chain is also 25.3mm wide. You can drop a few pounds of rotating mass by converting but you have to do your research so you don't end up with something you can't use. Don't be fooled by tensile strength either. There are some good articles regarding this myth and when you look at some of the rating vs cc size you may notice that some cheaper chains recommended for 400cc or 600cc bikes are the same tensile strength as your more expensive chain. Tensile strength is tensile strength. Makes for a good study.

 

[posplayr]

OK boys and girls. If you don't know already, the Suzuki charging system stinks. I recommend replacing the stator and the regulator / rectifier with aftermarket components before your harness melts and your battery boils over and explodes.
For the katana, there are two extra wires that are not needed. They are Green with White tracer, and White with Red tracer. The stator connects to one and the regulator / rectifier connects to the other. where do they go? They run through the harness upto the right hand control plug and loop around back. It is a very long way to connect the stator to the regulator / rectifier. A better idea is to just connect all three wires coming from the stator to the regulator.
The regulator will have two more wires. Black, which is ground and Red, which connects to the red wire on the harness which feeds the battery. The aftermarket stators and regulators all have the same color wires because it doesn't matter how you connect the three. Just plug them all into the regulator. In the picture below you can see the Red/white plugged into the Green/white. That is just a closed loop up to the right hand control plug and back down.
If you use another type of reg/rec it may have another wire which is probably the status wire that tells the reg/rec how the battery is. Connect that directly to the battery. If you don't, and connect it to a switched power wire, you run the risk of over charging the battery as the reg/rec may see less voltage due to resistance and corrosion in the wires.
A side note, there are only two types of reg/rec controlers. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators. As far as the katana is concerned, any regulator / rectifier will work on our bikes. It is just some have more wires than others. They will all do the same job.

I guess you have not seen this thread?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397

 

[Guest]

I guess you have not seen this thread?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397

No, had not seen that thread. Looks very cool (pardon the pun) I have been running electrosport reg/rec and stators for years now without issues and at 1/2 the price. System looks good for cooler running. Def has that advantage.

Not sure about your comment though. Is there wrong information in my post? Or were you just pointing out a better option to OEM as well?

 

[posplayr]

No, had not seen that thread. Looks very cool (pardon the pun) I have been running electrosport reg/rec and stators for years now without issues and at 1/2 the price. System looks good for cooler running. Def has that advantage.

Not sure about your comment though. Is there wrong information in my post? Or were you just pointing out a better option to OEM as well?

A side note, there are only two types of reg/rec controlers. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators.


Mainly commenting on this sentence above. I'm assuming you are referring to 5 wire v.s 6 wire. There are also SHUNT, FET (also shunt) and SERIES. At this point I would probably only recommend the Honda 6 wire R/R as they have a low probability of burning a stator or the high end SERIES (like the compufire unit as it is smaller than the Cycle Electric ones.)

Have you actually looked at your stator to see if it is turning dark from heat?

 

[Guest]

A side note, there are only two types of reg/rec controlers. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators.
Mainly commenting on this sentence above.

I see, yes, I was not specific in that statement. I was referring to reg/recs of the era. I will endeavor to be more specific in future.

I have pulled stators both from OEM and electrosport models that have looked fine and I have pulled some OEM stators that were black.

I will look more into the "series" as oil temp is a concern for my 1260 engine. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Guest]

katana led signal lights

katana led signal lights

I was unhappy with my last set of signal lights. Not very bright, not many leds and a little small. I have found a new set that I really like. I haven't seen this shape before but maybe I just don't get around very much. There has been much discussion about getting led lights to work properly on a bike. There are expensive solutions on the internet if you have too much money and want to stimulate the economy. You can go the cheap route like me two seasons ago. I hid the incondescent bulb signals under the katana plastic in a way that they would splash the engine and rear wheel when activated, while using the led signal lights in the usual signal location. A bit of bling for no bucks. I may do it again, or I may just go to my local automotive parts store and pick up a signal flasher unit for led lights (10.00) The reason the led lights won't flash is they don't draw enough current to activate the stock flasher. At least that is what I was told. A few years ago the solution was not as simple as today.

The old oval signals only have 8 led lights, where as the new ones have 18. The new leds also light up the tips for warning anyone to the side of the bike. They are a little larger than the old ones, brighter and a better design in my opinion. Another reason I like them is they match my new billet mirrors pretty good. I should have them in a couple weeks from Hong Kong.

 

[Guest]

I got the wheels back today from powder. As usual, there is some clean up afterwards. The bike shop was very carefull not to mark the new rims. I don't know what you all pay for mounting and balancing wheels but I think $85.00 is a little excessive for two wheels.

The pictures do not do them justice. These rims are spectacular. They are powdered with "110% gloss black". That is what powder dude told my anyhow. All I know is, they sure are shiny. As usual all did not go as planned. I bought 4 "All Balls" bearings for the wheels from the local shop and they need to come out and be replaced. They are tight to turn and not smooth at all. Back to get some Japanese bearings.

Make sure if you powder or media blast wheels, you replace the bearings. I leave them in to protect the bearings surfaces and knock them out when the wheels are blasted. You can't leave them in for powder and 400 degree baking.

I protected all the rotor threads with rotor bolts because I thought may as well instead of painting them myself. As you can see in the pic that I had to refit the socket head to the rotor bolt. Remember, powder is thick. There are a million and one things to do on this bike, and if I was not already nuts, I sure would be by the end of this build. See pic, I had to turn down the locking nut on my lathe for the rear brake push rod. Its OD was a little large and to close to the swingarm. I turned it down until there was just a little flat surface left to get a wrench on it to tighten. There has been so many of these little details, sometimes it takes the fun out of doing it. I still have to do some more adjusting of the rear brake pivot as I don't want to scratch the new powder on the swingarm.

There are days when I feel light pushing it all to the curb and buying a brand new bike, but, I know it will all be worth it when I'm ridin her. Oh, yeh, the tires are Shinko Podiums ( I am sure some of you have comments about them), rotors are Galfer.

 

[Guest]

Usd fork brace

Usd fork brace

Hey Joe, thanks M8.
I love that fork brace you posted on your thread. I had to get one too.

Well, mounted the front forks today and re&re'd the wheel bearings. Bought 4 "All Balls" bearings and did not like they way they roll, so, bashed them out and replaced them with NSK bearings, that's how I roll.

Mounted some plastic to check fitment and had to change the mounting bolts for the cooler due to contact with lower fairing pieces. then I couldn't get the signals in so, more adjusting. Very happy to have rubber on though and will have a roller in couple days. Couple more adjustements out back with the swing arm. Looking for the best thing to use for the chain slider. My nice new shiny gloss black swinger would not fair very well with chain contact.

Having a stretched swinger adds to the chain droop so I am running an 18/50 tooth setup. That equals the same size as the stock diameter sprockets so don't think that they will look huge on there.

The 2006 gsxr 1000 fender needs some fabbing as well to mount. In the pic there is a bolt missing in the brace cuz the fender was on the wrong side of the fork mount. Fits much better with it on the inside.

Great find Joe. Cheers,

 

[Guest]

katana speedometer

katana speedometer

Well, not sure which way to go on this one. I like the digital tach/speedo but I have this nice updated stock set of clocks. ONe I bolt on the other will take all sorts of fabbing. Like I don't have enough to do.

I will have to make a decision pretty quick I think. I am leaning towards the digital clocks with shift lights, 1/4 mile time, 60 foot and all the other bells and whistles.

Which one do you guys like better?

 

[Mindless]

I've always thought the stock Katana instrument cluster was the coolest of all. Regardless of make, model or year.

 

[still_bluenoser]

Stock .

 

[Guest]

bandit 1200 swing arm conversion

bandit 1200 swing arm conversion

On thing I need to address is chain droop. With my nice new (expensive) gloss black bandit 1200 swing arm all mounted up and looking so fine, the last thing I want to see is two train tracks from my chian contacting the top of the swing arm. Remember the post about 530 conversions? This is where it comes into play. The bandit 1200 swing arm is much wider at the pivot than the GS or GSX swing arm is, so sprocket diameter plays a big roll. Also, the bandit swing arm is at a greater angle than the stock GS or GSX arm. Add to that the extensions and we are getting dangerously close the the pivot.

I will be running larger sprockets front and rear. My front sprocket will be 18 teeth and the rear 51 teeth. Sounds HUUUUUGE!! doesn't it, but, they are the same diameter as the stock katana sprockets. Physically they are the same size just more teeth on them. As you can see in the pics I also installed the chain slider. As it comes with the bandit 1200 swing arm it is much too wide so I trimmed it down to fit. Another thing you can do is drill and tap the swing arm, then bolt a strip of "DELRIN" onto it. I decided just to go with the stock one for now.

 

[salty_monk]

Would that be Delrin - it's an engineering grade nylon

 

[Guest]

Would that be Delrin - it's an engineering grade nylon

The figners don't always work as they should..

 

[Guest]

Got some more work done today. Was working on wiring, fuel pump, surge tank and rear brake master and reservoir. I am using a Ducati rear brake reservoir. They are nice and small, so easy to hide behind the side cover. I will be replacing the Tygon F-4040 fuel line with Tygon 2075 clear brake line. Acording to many as the best tubing made for brake fluid. You can't use it for the presure side just from the res to the master cylinder. I just don't have any at the moment.

Mounting was pretty easy off the custom battery box. I cut an angular spacer to get better hose routing. Avid katana enthusiasts my notice that the master is not off a GS. It is a GSXR master cylinder. I used it because I wanted something smaller and less in the way. It required cutting fabbing and welding a new bracket for it as it does not have the same bolt pattern. Since I had to do that work anyway, I moved the master up so the bottom mounting hole is on the original top mounting hole of the frame. I added the top mounting hole further up to get the master more out of site and to clean up that area giving it a less cluttered look.

Of course that meant machining up a new brake rod out of stainless. The one side is flat for clearance as the bandit 1200 swing arm forces some adjustment of the rear brake pivot arm. Also missing from that area is the rear brake light switch and spring. I did away with that all together. On previous builds I moved it under the peg stay running parallel with it, but this time I used a hydrolic switch that is incorperated with the brake banjo bolt. My new brake lines are ordered and should be here next week. Stainless steel with translucent blue coating, red banjo fitting and blue anodized aluminum banjo bolts.

For those who don't know, it is not recommended to use aluminum fittings with stainless steel lines as the two metals react to each other and cause corrosion. Especially in a salt water environment, like in a coastal city. That being said I have used them without issue for a couple seasons at a time. These ones are all stainless accept for the banjo bolts which have copper crush washers between them and the stainless so I am not concerned. More on that when they arrive.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Rob did you ever sort the iPhone/USB issue? I'm trying an aftermarket powerport box I got run straigh to the battery on my ZRX and I'm not charging from the USB port in it. It's 5volt like it's supposed to be but I know iPhones are picky about the USB ports.