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Fuel system cleaner that works as advertised.

Now, what's the advantages of running non-ethanol fuel? Oh, I'm sorry about your thread changing subject. Just kinda evolved that way.

Non ethanol gas = better gas mileage, and doesn't destroy "O" rings and seals.

A big negative of ethanol is that it has 300 times the attraction for absorbing water that gas without ethanol (pure gas) has. The fuel absorbing water into the gas and gumming if not used quickly is the big problem with ethanol.
 
Wait a minute...is non-oxygenated and non-ethanol the same thing?
Yes. Fuel sold in Mn with no ethanol is called non-oxygenated. I am sorry for any for any confusion I have caused. I would like to see if anyone has used the Lubegard in carbs that have stale fuel residue. I hijacked the thread with talk of fuel additives and running problems. Sorry once again. If a station sold you bad fuel and you can prove it by buying more, showing them what they are selling and what is has done to your fuel system, do you guys think there may be some type of recourse?
 
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The difference in winter and summer blends is the Reid Vapor Pressure. The RVP dictates the rate of fuel evaporation.

Under certain conditions Mogas ( auto gas ) can be used in light aircraft. Ambient below something and altitude below something else. It's a vapour pressure thing. Just wondering how Avgas would perform in hot places.
 
I may be wrong on this but I believe that some of the stations that are selling non-ethanol gas is ONLY available in the premium 91 octane pumps.
 
Ours is 91 octane

It is either 91 or 110 here.

An added bonus from doing this fuel system and combustion chamber cleaning is that my gas mileage has increased from the always 43 mpg to 48 mpg on the past three fill ups.
 
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Pure-Gas has iPhone & Android apps that make it easy to find the ethanol-free gas stations.

I've been using the Pure-Gas website lately. I found a gas station not to far from me that sells 100%gasoline. It's about. $.45 per gallon more than regular, but worth it in my motorcycles.
 

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I never use the 91 octane premium stuff but there are a few places in my home area that I can still get the 87 octane without ethanol. I have seen posted on this forum that the 91 is not needed in our old bikes so that is why I never buy it. If I am going through a lot of gas, using the ethanol blend has never bothered me in the past. But when I won't be going through so much gas, I will make sure my tank is full of the non-ethanol product.
 
I never use the 91 octane premium stuff but there are a few places in my home area that I can still get the 87 octane without ethanol. I have seen posted on this forum that the 91 is not needed in our old bikes so that is why I never buy it. If I am going through a lot of gas, using the ethanol blend has never bothered me in the past. But when I won't be going through so much gas, I will make sure my tank is full of the non-ethanol product.
I also have a '79 GS1000E. The factory manual says "use only unleaded or low-lead fuel of a least 85-95 octane (R+M/2 method) or 89 octane or higher if rated by the Research method". I haven't paid much attention to the info regarding rating methods on pumps but I'll look at the pump next time I fuel up. I've always used 91 octane. I'd like to start using the non-ethanol fuel but all but one of the dealers around me sell only 88. The one that sells 91 is unmanned/automated, so you have to use a credit card. I've always paid cash for smaller transactions. Not sure I want to use a card for buying fuel. Just something I'm not comfortable with. I'm always hearing about card skimming/theft at gas stations.
 
I've been using the Pure-Gas website lately. I found a gas station not to far from me that sells 100%gasoline. It's about. $.45 per gallon more than regular, but worth it in my motorcycles.

Thanks for posting that. I see on their website there are a few choices here for non ethanol gas.
 
The last small flat spot in the throttle response at 3800 rpm finally cleared and the fuel system is back to 100% on the B12. The only criticism I have of the additive is that it took about 600 miles to clean out everything using a concentration of 3 oz. per gallon of gas.
 
The last small flat spot in the throttle response at 3800 rpm finally cleared and the fuel system is back to 100% on the B12. The only criticism I have of the additive is that it took about 600 miles to clean out everything using a concentration of 3 oz. per gallon of gas.

In the first post you were using 1 oz per gallon. When did you switch to 3 oz per gallon and did that amount mess with the bikes ridability or because of the carb issues you didnt notice.
Alex
 
I just dump the whole can in. doesn't hurt anything and is concentrated to get the work done much faster.
 
I just dump the whole can in. doesn't hurt anything and is concentrated to get the work done much faster.

With many things, more is not always better. Try taking 50 aspirin for a headache instead of two and see where it gets you.
 
Ive done it forever this way and there isn't any adverses reactions...just a heck of a lot faster refreshing the system. Usualy just one tank and its all good.
 
Ive done it forever this way and there isn't any adverses reactions...just a heck of a lot faster refreshing the system. Usualy just one tank and its all good.

I'm a big fan of B12, always used it for eons. Only thing that concerns me with using a full can in the bike tank is the rubber in the petcock, B12 isn't very nice to rubber in a high concentration.
 
StarTron is what the big boat guys use and they probably abuse their fuel more than anyone else because of the size of their fuel tanks. It works well but nothing beats a proper cleaning of our carburetors. Seafoam is the best fuel injection cleaner I have used. Night and day results on our old RX8, from tired to rev limiter before you could shift. Not so much on carburetors.
 
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