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Fusebox Melted - Advice Needed from Electrical Gurus

  • Thread starter Thread starter Suzuki_Don
  • Start date Start date
I imagine his setup is like mine... I have a 15amp fuse in the stock position that goes between the battery & the rest of bike on the "output side".

I have a stand-alone fuse (on a short pigtail) going between the +ve on the RR & the battery +ve terminal. If I remember correctly that one is a 30amp fuse. (I've tried 20amp fuses with the Shindengen RR before & they blew).
I've run it that way for 2 years+

Earlier this year I moved to the SH775 series RR but I haven't changed anything, just plugged it in where the old one was & mounted it the same.

Eventually I might fit one of these. I prefer it to the Eastern Beaver version. You can always switch the circuits over (just by moving the fuse) if the onboard relay goes out to get you home & that relay would be easy enough to replace on the board.
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

Dan :)
 
GSXR7ED said:
So, I can disconnect the R/R wires independently and apply the instructions given?

The POSITIVE RED wire coming rom the R/R is located under the seat area. For the Negative, can I just put the contact on the gounded Black wire?

I'm a little reluctant to do this because I don't want to mess anything up and not be able to ride.


Ed
Click to expand...

nothing is disconnected, you just measure from the closest connection to the R/R to the center of the battery post for the red side and the black side.

It should be obvious that if your R/R is connected right to the battery, then in theory the voltages are the same. That is however seldom true which is the source of the problems.
 
salty_monk said:
I imagine his setup is like mine... I have a 15amp fuse in the stock position that goes between the battery & the rest of bike on the "output side".

I have a stand-alone fuse (on a short pigtail) going between the +ve on the RR & the battery +ve terminal. If I remember correctly that one is a 30amp fuse. (I've tried 20amp fuses with the Shindengen RR before & they blew).
I've run it that way for 2 years+

Earlier this year I moved to the SH775 series RR but I haven't changed anything, just plugged it in where the old one was & mounted it the same.

Eventually I might fit one of these. I prefer it to the Eastern Beaver version. You can always switch the circuits over (just by moving the fuse) if the onboard relay goes out to get you home & that relay would be easy enough to replace on the board.
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

Dan :)
Click to expand...

I know you are getting away with it, but from your description you could theoretically be pulling 30 amps on one fuse and 15 amps on the other and blow neither. That is 3 times stock :-s. There is plenty of room to burn wires that way especially grounds.
 
posplayr said:
I know you are getting away with it, but from your description you could theoretically be pulling 30 amps on one fuse and 15 amps on the other and blow neither. That is 3 times stock :-s. There is plenty of room to burn wires that way especially grounds.
Click to expand...

On my Compufire RR it was provided with a 40a inline fuse and is connected directly to the battery positive post, sound alright?
 
mustangflyr said:
On my Compufire RR it was provided with a 40a inline fuse and is connected directly to the battery positive post, sound alright?
Click to expand...

There are basically two ways to do it:

1.) reconnect the R/R like the harness was designed. When you do this you need to make sure that the other connections (like fuse box) do not have too much resistance. When you do this you can rely on the 15 amp fuse in the fuse box.

2.) You can connect the R/R (+) directly to the battery (I don't do this ) people then generally just leave the original red wire to the harness open (taped back so it will not short). Experience has show you then need to increase the in line fuse from 15 amps to 20 amps and Dan is saying he needs 30 amps.

Lower amperage fuse is better if you can keep it from blowing as it will catch a short sooner. The fuse is to stop the battery from dishing out 50-100 amps in the case of a short (it has nothing to do with the power rating of the Compufire; the stator can not support 40 amps ).

You don't need to use a 40 amp fuse, that is basically like not having a fuse as much of the wire in your harness probably wont be too happy carrying 40 amps. Drop down to 20 amps and see if it blows, carry a 25 amp fuse just in case.

Dan may need 30 amp fuses as he has several accessories like heated gloves.
 
posplayr said:
Don,
I don't quite understand your connections or what you mean by the fuse for controlling the R/R charging? Generally you need a 15 amp fuse between the battery and the rest of the electrical system, because if anything in the electrical system shorts the battery can supply many amps to that short. Under normal operation you don't need more that 15 amps an so that is why that fuse is selected,

If there is resistance the easiest way top find it is using a volt meter. Run the electrical and look for voltage drops where there should be none; those will hot
Click to expand...

As usual Jim you are right on the ball - yes that is insulation protecting the top part of the fusebox that is live. A piece of cloth covered fuel pipe split down it's length actually.

Jim I'll explain my wiring to you and get your approval hopefully. Looking at pics I have posted you will see a red wire coming into the fusebox at the top left is the power source from the solenoid (battery).
The power then goes through a 15A fuse to a red wire exiting at the bottom left of the fusebox.. This wire goes through the loom to the ign switch. When the ign switch is turned ON the power comes back to the fusebox via the green wire at the top right which feeds the ganged lower four RH fuses.

From right to left: Yellow wire - RH handlebar switch, to lights and instrument panel, etc. Red wire blue stripe - turn signal relay and blinkers. Orange wire - oil & neutral lights, both brake light switches & horn. Orange/white wire - kill switch, starter button, coil relay & Dyna S.

The other connection is the R/R+ wire coming at the bottom 2nd in from the left which feeds through a 10A fuse which is ganged to the left hand fuse and goes back to the battery via the wire to the solenoid.

I would like comments Jim if you see any issues with the way this is wired.

I now plan to put an inline fuse in place going from the R/R+ to the battery as Dan suggested. I do not have any accessories like hand warmers, etc. Not brought up on that sort of stuff. Can you see any issues with that inline fuse?

Also should I put dialectric grease on the fuses where they plug into the fuse box. If so how often should I do this to prevent high resistance

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Suzuki_Don said:
As usual Jim you are right on the ball - yes that is insulation protecting the top part of the fusebox that is live. A piece of cloth covered fuel pipe split down it's length actually.

Jim I'll explain my wiring to you and get your approval hopefully. Looking at pics I have posted you will see a red wire coming into the fusebox at the top left is the power source from the solenoid (battery).
The power then goes through a 15A fuse to a red wire exiting at the bottom left of the fusebox.. This wire goes through the loom to the ign switch. When the ign switch is turned ON the power comes back to the fusebox via the green wire at the top right which feeds the ganged lower four RH fuses.

From right to left: Yellow wire - RH handlebar switch, to lights and instrument panel, etc. Red wire blue stripe - turn signal relay and blinkers. Orange wire - oil & neutral lights, both brake light switches & horn. Orange/white wire - kill switch, starter button, coil relay & Dyna S.

The other connection is the R/R+ wire coming at the bottom 2nd in from the left which feeds through a 10A fuse which is ganged to the left hand fuse and goes back to the battery via the wire to the solenoid.

I would like comments Jim if you see any issues with the way this is wired.

I now plan to put an inline fuse in place going from the R/R+ to the battery as Dan suggested. I do not have any accessories like hand warmers, etc. Not brought up on that sort of stuff. Can you see any issues with that inline fuse?

Also should I put dialectric grease on the fuses where they plug into the fuse box. If so how often should I do this to prevent high resistance

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Don,
Schematics are always best. . Attached is basically what I think you have. The next post is a recommendation. I think what you have is OK except:

a.) Not sure there is any reason for connecting the battery through one fuse to the R/R and another to the ignition switch.

b.) Second are you running the coil relay power through the ignition switch? A coil relay is a good compromise on reducing the power through the ignition switch but only using one relay controlled by the kill switch. The ignition switch now only has to carry about 1/2 the current it normally would.
Jim
 
This one is closer to the OEM charging single point "T" configuration but includes the ignition relay mod.
 
Thanks Jim, much appreciated.

BTW when I rebuilt the wiring loom I fitted new 15A earth wires thoughout as well as the wiring going from fusebox to ign switch and from ign back to fusebox.
 
posplayr said:
This one is closer to the OEM charging single point "T" configuration but includes the ignition relay mod.
Click to expand...

I noticed that about the OE circuit too - the wiring from the R/R to the ignition switch (red) and back to the fuse box (orange) is therefore unprotected by fuse(s)?
 
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