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Fzr 1000

Got down and dirty on the bike the last couple days. (don't mind the old Wing in the background :-\\\ )

First thing was to get it up on the stands. Removed the front plastics and head light. Front nose fairing had a few more cracks that became visible as the plastic was flexed slightly upon removal. Should be easy fix though, and I'll probably be repainting everything red white and blue anyway.

The front was a bit tough since the PO had dropped the triples so far down on the forks.

I wound up having to take the front fender off first to get enough room. Front fender mounts were all cracked, 1 broken and there was a crack running the almost all the way through the fender. I opted to buy a new one. Found one on ebay NOS $70 shipped from South Africa of all places :eek:.

Bike on stands:

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Getting the front wheel off kinda gave me a challenge. The calipers really sit deep in the well of the wheel, so I would up having to pull the right caliper first, wiggle it off the rotor and out of the wheel well, then wiggle the other caliper out.

Nuts and bolts needed a bit of PB Blaster to move.

I've GOT NO LEGS~! :p

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Fork seals were trash, fortunately the chrome tubes are nice and shiney once they were wiped off with some W-D.

Forks have the same dimensions as the GSXR 750 forks of that era 50mm upper and 54mm lower. FZR 1000 are KYB forks and GSXR 750 are Showa. The inner slider tube is 41mm same as the 91-93 gsxr 750. They are a bit longer, more along the length of a GSXR 1100 tube The fzr tubes have preload adjustment but no dampening adjusters. The GSXR tubes have both.

Side by side comparison with 95 GSXR 750 forks:

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I thought about switching out the front for a 95-94 GSXR but I think for now I'm just going to update the stock forks with Trac Dynamics internals.

New springs at a minimum.

Carbs and Valve clearances next, while I'm waiting on seals and springs to arrive for the forks.


Nic
 
Carbs and Valve clearances as well as a full fluid change was next on the list.

Pulled the drain plug and the oil filter. Oil was nasty black, but fortunately no fuel or coolant, so I'll count my blessings there.

Drained the Coolant. Was good and clean, but why not change it and flush the system while I'm there.

Pulled the tank and got a nasty surprise as Gasoline began to run all over my jeans.

Petcock plastic piece for the fuel shut off was broken, so no fuel shut off. Grabbed a bucket quick to let it drain out:

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Got a new K&L replacement petcock for $18 again off ebay.

With the tank off I have access to the 38mm downdraft mikuni carbs:

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Came off easily, probably do to the fact that the PO never really re-tightened the intake boot clamps :clap: Throttle linkage is a push pull.

Set the carbs aside for later. Onto the valves.

Have to removed the electric panel that holds the coils and loosen the radiator from the top mounts and push it forward to gain clearance from the front of the valve cover.

With all the wiring out of the way, and the radiator moved forward, you can now remove the Magnesium Cover. Loosen in a cross pattern evenly, and :

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The FZR 1000 5 valve head (20 total :p).

3 intake and 2 exhaust per cylinder.

I wont go into the method for checking the clearances. It's fairly straight forward.

One thing I wish I had was a set of Narrow or Tapered feeler gauges. Normal feelers have a 1/2" blade, but in order to get to the 2nd intake valve on each cylinder you really need a thinner gauge. Bikemaster has a 32 blade set and of course no bike shop or anyone around me had a set on the shelves. I finally caved and Cut some of my spare feelers with some very sharp sheers, so I could check the clearances. If you go that route, make sure the edges are not rough, or you are going to gouge up your cams...

As with most FZR 1000's the intakes were all tight with the exception of 3 which were JUST in tolerance. only 1 exhaust needs to be changed.


There is no Zip tie method or shim tool for this bad boy. You have to remove the Cams to get to the buckets/shims.

I halted after checking the clearances. Want to get started Early in the morning when I remove the cams and calculate the new shims, so I can hit up my local shop for a swap.


Carbs Next!

Nic
 
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Got the Carbs broken down.

PO said, "Oh yeah I cleaned the carbs, but they need to be adjusted since its running rich."

Classic eh? ;)

Every carb was filthy and had this black Sh*t in the upper part of each carb under the diaphragms:

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Now it begs to wonder if it was jetted properly at all with the Filters and the V&H pipe.

I haven't worked on this particular model carb before. Not sure if these are stock needles or not:

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I'm betting they are though. I'll have to do some more reading on these carbs and figure out what stock jetting was and how far up if any the PO has bumped up the jetting. Emulsion tubes look good! Nice and round, not oval which is pretty common with the 38's.

I'll probably go for a Factory Pro kit anyway, but it's always good to know what your baseline is.

SO...just waiting to drop these into the Ultrasonic cleaner, then will wait on reassembly till I can get some more info on what these carbs already have in them.

Nic
 
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1100ES GSXR conversion temporarily on the back burner... Really want to get this thing up and running at least before snow comes!

Nic
 
Looks like there are 138 jets installed. Quite a bump up from stock outer 122.5, inner cylinders 125. So It was jetted for the pods/pipe apparently.

Look like mikuni jets. I know Factory pro uses mikuni, but not sure of the sizes for the kit.

Nic
 
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Need to source an O-ring kit for the carbs. Wonder if Robert Bar would be able to send me a modified kit if I sent measurements of the old O-rings.

According to the boys at FZR Archives I've got Dynojet needles.


Nic
 
Got the forks back together. Decided not to respring right now. The bushings were pretty shot, so they were replaced with racetec super slick slider bushings. Cleaned the internals very well and with new seals and oil, they are ready to install.

The front fender was in worse shape than I thought once it was off. Had a crack almost all the way to the center and 3 of the mounts were cracked/broken.

However I found a NOS fender on eBay for $60 shipped from South Africa. So good to go there.

The valve adjustment is done. Wound up having to replace a few more shims and wound up having to remove and reinstall the cams several times to get everything lined up.

New valve cover gasket and cam chain tensioner gasket. Its all buttoned up now. New synth oil. Coolant system flushed and refilled. Need to get a new plug and overflow line for the reservoir though.

Took a look at the coils and one of the boots was barely attached to the wire, so I'm pretty sure that is why the PO was having problems with richness as one cylinder was misfiring.

Need to get a new jet kit. The needles that were in there are pretty badly worn. Wasn't sure if the Dynojet kit required drilling these slides as I would rather go with a Factory Pro kit. Got a new set of K&N pods since the old V&H pods were in really rough shape. The black residue in the carbs were from the deterioration of the plastic/joining surface between the pod mesh and the filter body.

Hope to have it back to a roller on Monday with more pics to come.

Nic
 
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niclpnut said:
Need to source an O-ring kit for the carbs. Wonder if Robert Bar would be able to send me a modified kit if I sent measurements of the old O-rings.

According to the boys at FZR Archives I've got Dynojet needles.


Nic
Click to expand...

You can buy your own O-rings from McMaster-Carr or similar. I put together an O-ring kit for a Kawasaki 600 that way and it was easy enough.

Measure the ID of the part first. You want the O-ring to have about 1 mm smaller ID than the part it fits on (unless the part is really small like a needle valve). With the O-ring installed, the OD will grow by the same amount as the stretch. Then measure the diameter of the hole the part fits into so you can determine what thickness your desired O-ring will be. Again, you want about 1mm of compression on the OD of the O-ring.

Having the old O-rings to measure is a big help. Don't trust that alone though since the O-rings will shrink as they age and sit in the compressed position.

Viton O-rings are superior to Buna-N, but the later are okay. You will have lots of extras, but O-rings are cheap so it's no big deal. Maybe sell the spares on some FZ site?

BTW, Project is looking good. Keep going...
 
Thanks for that Ed.

I had some left over o-rings from a couple kits from Robert Barr. most of them matched up.

I need to get new o-ring/gaskets for the jet towers now. Bout 8-10 bucks a piece from the usual venders unfortunately.

Nic
 
Going to follow your build here, I just picked up a 1985 FZ750 that will get the restore touch, just back to stock, so I am going to use your thread for inspiration....

I just wish mine was in as good condition to start with, and the blue bike Spyug is going to work on is even more worse off.....

Good luck on your build....

.
 
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niclpnut said:
Exup valve is a non issue.

The bike came with a full ss V&H exhaust system.

I just need to verify the jetting for the pods and pipe.

Nic
Click to expand...


Missed that. I like the EXUP myself, but once it doesn't want to move, your better off getting rid of it... I guess one of the PO's already got to that point.

Very nice bike, perfect road bike.
 
Got the front end back together.

Ran into a couple problems though. Was missing the handle bar plastic/rubber dampners which help the clipons stay in position and limit vibration. Luckily i found a set from a local salvage yard.

Additionally, I think the top triple clamp seems to have been damaged when the PO tried to lower the front end. The clamps are still loose on the upper portion of the forks. Even when fully tightened they will not clamp onto the fork securely. Not sure if they got stretched out or what.

For that matter, since the top triple will not clamp fully the clip ons feel loose and will wiggle ever so slightly. Guess I'm going to have to try and find a new top triple somewhere. Need one from a 91-93. Pre 91 is RSU forks and they have a smaller diameter. The 94-95 triple (crown) has a different part number. They look the same in the fisch but could be that the 94-95 forks are a different diameter :-k .

Don't feel safe till I get that figured out as the lower triple clamps are the only ones actually holding the fork in.
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Shiny new front fender looks good though.

Still have some work to do on the nose fairing:

Right edge facing the bike has some cracks which will be plastiwelded/ epoxied.

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Broken piece off at the mirror mount. and on the lower wing.

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i plan on using some semi rigid lexan plastic to cut and shape the missing pieces using the opposite sides as mirror images and then plastiwelding with steal mesh on the reverse for support.

Nic
 
Started a little work on the nose fairing. Started with the broken bit by the mirror mount. For the missing piece I used the other side as a guide then cut a new piece from lexan plastic and plastic weld/glued it. Little bit of sanding and clean up then I'll attach it to the rest of the fairing.

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The piece broken and missing on the bottom will be harder. It is curved. I tested some bending with the lexan plastic I have and my heat gun, but can't get it to work.

Almost think making some kind of a mold, forming the plastic that way would work better.

Nic
 
Got the carbs put back together and fitted the used set of K&N filters.

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I reused the Float bowl gaskets and the special O-rings that sit under the jet tower since I'm still waiting on the new O-ring kits to arrive.

I had some time so I decided to see If it would fire up as is.

Put the carbs on, and went to hit the starter button, but the battery was low :(

After giving it a good charge I was happily surprised to hear it rumble to life on literally the first hit of the starter button! :clap: Amazing what a good carb cleaning and a valve adjustment can do eh!? The engine was also noticeably more quiet with good oil and the valve adjustment.

Fuel did leak from the float bowls but I kinda figured that would happen since the gaskets are old.


There was a good burst of smoke from the exhaust initially from old fuel and what not in the combustion chambers but once the idle stabilized it sounded great.

Need to sync the carbs etc and am having some hanging idle after a blip of the throttle, but those are kinks I'm used to working through.

The screws for the manifold clamps were all kinda buggered from the PO. The angles are tough to tighten them down with a screw driver, so I went to True Value and got some Allen Head bolts as replacements to ensure the manifolds are nice and tight!

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Hopefully I can get running videos shot once the carb kits come next week.


Nic
 
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Got the carbs finished up and reinstalled. New plugs also.

Much different from working on the GS's. Sure not alot of room to maneuver. Challenge in and of itself just to get the plugs changed out lol.

Fired it up and it came to life. The GS engines can be noisy if the carbs are out of sync and the FZR was no exception.

Balanced the carbs then worked on the mixture screws. I'm right at 3 turns out atm and it seems to be running well. #3 was way off but finally got it about right. Was lean to start and the idle was hanging.

Initial sync with the trusty morgan. The fzr takes the larger sync adapters:

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After tweaking the mixture screws it was drawing much better.

Tried to get a running video but photobucket is not liking the file type that my phone saved it as.


Hopefully the weather will warm up some so I can take it out for a spin. Plug chops would be very difficult to do. I'd basically have to remove the coil bracket just to get to the plugs so I'm thinking this one will be going down to the shop for a dyno run/tune.

Nic
 
Little progress on the fairing.

I picked up some JB Weld epoxy plastic weld putty to join the broken upper left mirror mount portion to the rest of the fairing. The product can be sanded, painted and won't shrink.

I started by straightening the break by sanding it down flat. I needed to fill about 2mm gap so the mirror mount would align properly with the windscreen.

The putty was easy to work with and seems to have done the job. It stinks though :p The set time is approximately 30 minutes. I kneaded a bit of the putty together and made a 3mm roll. I had previously taped the two pieces together so I knew exactly the space I needed so everything would line up.

I pressed them together with packing tape on the face side of the fairing and pushed the rest in place on the reverse side to help it all hold.

Had to hold it in place for about 15 min before I dared move it, then I wrapped it all up tight in place with more packing tape.

The tape removed easily and didn't adhere to the putty:

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Now just need to sand everything flat. May need to use a touch more putty to fill a small dimple on the face side of the joint that I didn't press in enough.

Nic
 
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