Goldwing? What are the usual suspects to watch out for ???

[exdirtbiker]

May take a shot at buying this tomorrow. it's less than $1000.

What should I beware of? It's been "sitting a while". I will find out what that really means. 1982, 30,000 miles.

I know rusted/rotted pipes are an issue.
Carbs any harder to clean than GS ?
If timing belt is not recent? is that a nightmare / stay away, or just a bargaining chip?

Thanks in advance

Pete

 

[chuck hahn]

Many many good links here that pertain to just about any GL. I used tyhe carb rebuild kit from Randakks and did the air jet mod covered in the "how to cure off idel stumble" tutorial. Shop galk link will take you to tutorials much like bikecliffs website has set up.



https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

 

[Redman]

That an 1100? I helped a friend that got an 1100. We took off the front wheel and the bearing fell out of the wheel. FOund out that was a common problem with the "comstar" wheels for a few years on goldwings. I think he had to get newer wheel(s).

That a 1200? Another guy was telling me something about changing the stator is a major engine tear down.

.

 

[Steve]

No, that's an 1100. :-k

With only 30,000 miles, the timing belts will LOOK good, but the general rule is to change them every 10 years or 100,000 miles, so i would replace them. You don't need Honda belts at $50 (each), there is a Gates belt that works just fine for about $15.

Consider replacing the water pump and thermostat while you have the front of the engine accessible.

The GL1100, as well as the GL1000 and GL1200, has a stator and R/R charging system virtually identical to the GS bikes. The stator is on the back of the engine, which requires pulling the engine out of the frame to change the stator. I would highly recommend an SH775 R/R as soon as practical.

One valuable resource is goldwingfacts.com. Almost as good as GSR.

.

 

[Guest]

+1 on the goldwingfacts.com site, stock mufflers from a bagger style harley are an alternative. They are easy to get and usually cheap to buy. My father traded a '79 cbx for a new 1100 back in the day.....

 

[Dogma]

No, that's an 1100. :-k

With only 30,000 miles, the timing belts will LOOK good, but the general rule is to change them every 10 years or 100,000 miles, so i would replace them. You don't need Honda belts at $50 (each), there is a Gates belt that works just fine for about $15.

Consider replacing the water pump and thermostat while you have the front of the engine accessible.

The GL1100, as well as the GL1000 and GL1200, has a stator and R/R charging system virtually identical to the GS bikes. The stator is on the back of the engine, which requires pulling the engine out of the frame to change the stator. I would highly recommend an SH775 R/R as soon as practical.

One valuable resource is goldwingfacts.com. Almost as good as GSR.

.

So, check the charging system if it runs, assume it won't charge if it doesn't run?

 

[Guest]

Stator is a pita, pulse generator is a pita (also at back of engine) I bought one with a bad pulse generator, more work than I wanted to do so sold it forward as a parts bike

 

[exdirtbiker]

Steve, are you the Steve from that website ??? I already signed up !

So it sounds like timing belt = "regular maint" and if it still has original electrical parts = "it's a project bike".

He said it's been about 6 years since it ran. Needs fork seals. I asked if gas turned into turpentine yet, he said "no it still smells like gas".

Going to look tomorrow morning. I'll keep you posted...

 

[GS1150Pilot]

I think the 1100 was the best of the fours in the GL. Sweet bikes when running right-not slow, either.

 

[scratch]

So it sounds like timing belt = "regular maint" and if it still has original electrical parts = "it's a project bike".

He said it's been about 6 years since it ran. Needs fork seals. I asked if gas turned into turpentine yet, he said "no it still smells like gas".

Any bike that has been sitting for 6 years is to be considered a project. Bought a running, driving, registered & inspected '84 gl1200 and still speant a grand in parts on before we took it out of the parking lot.
(no regrets, it ran like a hero for years after that, went cross country, through the Rockies in the snow, through the badlands at 110 degrees... a total champ ).

6 years of sitting and 35+ years of age means, belts, hoses, lines, pads, caliper and master kits, thermostat, carb work, radiator cap, and so on. That's just catching up on maitenance items.

It's all doable, just more stuff to look after than an air cooled GS and everything is a little bit more involved.

He may say it smells like gas to him... but, you wouldn't have asked if you didn't suspect that it is foul. He knows it's foul, you know it, we all know it lol...

 

[exdirtbiker]

Seems the value on these is all over the place. I think I found almost the same bike, running / drive it home, for $1000 in South Jersey.
This one is losing it's appeal, but I'll check it out anyway.

 

[Steve]

Steve, are you the Steve from that website ??? I already signed up !

Nope, not me. I am merely a Goldwing owner that has visited that site enough to warrant a membership there.

So it sounds like timing belt = "regular maint" and if it still has original electrical parts = "it's a project bike".

Did you happen to notice the frequency of that "regular maintenance"? :-k
Every 10 years or 100,000 miles. Yeah, might be "regular", but it's certainly not "often". My Wing is 19 years old now. I am the second owner and still see the previous owner regularly at the Goldwing meetings and rides. He added a few tasteful accessories, but never had to do anything mechanical or electrical, other than replace the alternator. Fortunately, he had the sense to install a high-output aftermarket alternator that more than doubled the available output.

I got the bike with just about 91,000 miles on it (it was six years old). Still had the original belts, hoses and spark plugs. I replaced the belts (and tensioners) and spark plugs at about 115,000 miles, haven't done anything else, except an oil seal around the shifter shaft.

The stock electrical bits are no worse than Suzuki GS bits. Actually, they are a bit better. The only major difference is the location and accessibility of the stator. Changing to a SH775 R/R will help ensure that the stock stator will keep going.

I think the 1100 was the best of the fours in the GL. Sweet bikes when running right-not slow, either.

I think the 1200 was the sleeper of the bunch. 1984 was the first year of the 1200, and the last year that it was available 'naked'. The 1200 had quite a bit more low-end torque and better carbs. Hydraulic lifters on the valves ensured proper clearance at all times, so the engine was running near peak potential at all times. All of the touring accessories definitely added weight, which reduced performance a bit, but the bike was oriented more toward touring comfortably rather than keeping the front wheel in the air.

.

 

[exdirtbiker]

So I looked... and passed.
At least one hanging caliper, it didn't roll much. Both front calipers dripping, maybe from fork seals, maybe not.
Gas smelled pretty bad.
He has no history. His dad bought it as it sits, and never touched it, 6 yrs ago.
He came down to $600, but I stuck to my plan..."I don't want to fix it, I want to ride it."
The search goes on...

 

[Wingsconsin]

I have owned MANY Goldwings over the years

I have owned MANY Goldwings over the years

Passing on it may have been a good idea-
Here are some important things to know for anyone looking at Goldwings

www.goldwingdocs.com is a GREAT resource for old Wings - especially the GL1100's

We had one in the stable for a few years -
The 1980 & 1981 had a lower rear end ratio making a tiny bit quicker -
1982 and 1983 GL1100s had a bit higher rear end for improved MPG

The carbs are a challenge to GET OUT -
Once they are out theey are no more difficult to rebuild (even easier) than the GS rack
4 cylinders either way - BALANCE is KEY - to get it running really well--

I have read somewhere there is a shortage of rear master cylinder parts / kits so finding one that works is important

The 1200s were the ones notorious for stator issues - but the 1100s benefit greatly from upgrades & updates like R & R and FUSEBOX replacement.

I LOVED my 1200 when I had it - very fast - but the 1980 GL1100 was a blast and really quick for a heavy bike - handling was light once the suspension was properly sorted with new Progressives all around - and a custom seat is the only way to log big miles for any comfort .

Here is my son getting ready to go to work one day on the GL1100 -

 

[Nessism]

So I looked... and passed.
At least one hanging caliper, it didn't roll much. Both front calipers dripping, maybe from fork seals, maybe not.
Gas smelled pretty bad.
He has no history. His dad bought it as it sits, and never touched it, 6 yrs ago.
He came down to $600, but I stuck to my plan..."I don't want to fix it, I want to ride it."
The search goes on...

Geeze, for $600 you would have had a lot of headroom to get it up to snuff. Any 40 year old bike is going to need a LOT of work, even if it's running when you pick it up.

 

[LAB3]

Geeze, for $600 you would have had a lot of headroom to get it up to snuff. Any 40 year old bike is going to need a LOT of work, even if it's running when you pick it up.

Agreed, with a non running $600 bike you're likely to be going through it to check everything out. With the fully running $1000 bike you be crying when one of the belts snaps and wrecks the top end.

As to charging issues on 1200's I've heard the fail point is where the stator wires connect into the main harness. It's known to corrode and cause a short, the fix is to clip off the connector and solder the wires together.

 

[exdirtbiker]

Yes, I agree with everything stated above.... a $600 couch is kinda hard to go wrong... but I have lost all desire to spend months in the garage anymore.
The more I think (and type) the less I want to work on stuff.
My next bike will be a good runner, not a fixer-upper. I hope.

 

[Big T]

You are correct
A bike in that condition will take a good $1,500 of parts and who knows how much labor to get in good running order and look nice.
Better to spend that money upfront and get a bike that runs and rides

 

[850 Combat]

I bought a '79, as I recall, 1000. It had Comstars. I bought it from a high school auto shop teacher. It had been a project bike there. New belts, everything worked. New tires. It wasn't fun to ride though. It didn't handle all that well. Overall, a GS is much better, and way easier to maintain to boot. Pull the motor to change a stator? That is worse than having to pull the fairing lower and right exhaust head pipe to change the oil filter on a BMW RT or RS airhead. Needlessly hard to work on, and no comfort or performance upside.

Of course they sold well, so obviously there are differing opinions. A big GS is better though.

 

[chuck hahn]

Engine really does come out rather easy. follow the service manual on what needs removed and take the section of the frame that bolts on out and it slides right out. I gotta do it on my 75 1000 to do the primary chain and clutch plates. Doubt it will take 5 or hours tops to do the work and get engine back in.