M
mighty13d
Guest
your bike is nuts
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GS(X)1100E turbo EFI
- Thread starter ArttuH
- Start date
Time for an update.
A longer swing arm was priority number one for this winter. I considered building the whole swinger by myself from chromo tube but then Blover offered me a suitable looking gixxer arm with drawings of extension blocks. So I thought it would be easier route.
The pivot tube needed some shaving to make it fit in the frame and some bushings to fit GSX bearings. I added shock mounts to the extension block drawings and did some other minor changes. Drawings were turned to milled aluminium pieces by a fellow Suzuki gearhead. I was very pleased about the result. Only thing to improve was weight, some weight reduction holes would been a good idea. And I also made a slight mistake with the shock mounts, more about that later.
So then all major pieces of the puzzle were collected.
When I started to fit the swinger on the bike I faced a couple of unpleasant surprises. At first the pivot tube conflicted with the engine. Fortunately this was solved with minor grinding. More nasty finding was that the rear brake master cylinder was on the way as well. It seems that I have to change the foot pegs and pedals to something different. Otherwise everything looked fine so it was time to start hacking the arm.
First I removed some dead weight.
A longer swing arm was priority number one for this winter. I considered building the whole swinger by myself from chromo tube but then Blover offered me a suitable looking gixxer arm with drawings of extension blocks. So I thought it would be easier route.
The pivot tube needed some shaving to make it fit in the frame and some bushings to fit GSX bearings. I added shock mounts to the extension block drawings and did some other minor changes. Drawings were turned to milled aluminium pieces by a fellow Suzuki gearhead. I was very pleased about the result. Only thing to improve was weight, some weight reduction holes would been a good idea. And I also made a slight mistake with the shock mounts, more about that later.
So then all major pieces of the puzzle were collected.
When I started to fit the swinger on the bike I faced a couple of unpleasant surprises. At first the pivot tube conflicted with the engine. Fortunately this was solved with minor grinding. More nasty finding was that the rear brake master cylinder was on the way as well. It seems that I have to change the foot pegs and pedals to something different. Otherwise everything looked fine so it was time to start hacking the arm.
First I removed some dead weight.
When I removed the original arm ends I found out that arm tubes had additional wall in the middle. So the extension blocks needed some modification.
Then plugging in the extensions, careful measuring to ensure that everything lines up correctly, some tack welds, measuring, adjusting, more measuring and when everything was looking good final welding with pre-heating and generous amperage. The seams aren't the prettiest but they should be strong.
Fits nicely on the bike too. The rear fender needs some adjusting to make room for the wheel in the most rearward position.
And then that mistake with the shock mount. New swinger is somewhat wider than original one. For some reason I didn't think about the obvious fact that this extra width is mainly added on the sprocket side when I designed the shock mounts. And since I have had some chain-shock clearance problems I placed the mount on outer edge of the extension block. As the result the shock is now angled outwards. But I think it's still acceptable.
Then plugging in the extensions, careful measuring to ensure that everything lines up correctly, some tack welds, measuring, adjusting, more measuring and when everything was looking good final welding with pre-heating and generous amperage. The seams aren't the prettiest but they should be strong.
Fits nicely on the bike too. The rear fender needs some adjusting to make room for the wheel in the most rearward position.
And then that mistake with the shock mount. New swinger is somewhat wider than original one. For some reason I didn't think about the obvious fact that this extra width is mainly added on the sprocket side when I designed the shock mounts. And since I have had some chain-shock clearance problems I placed the mount on outer edge of the extension block. As the result the shock is now angled outwards. But I think it's still acceptable.
G
Guest
Guest
Single S.?
Single S.?
Hello Arttu
Wouldn't it have been easier to just single shock it? With perhaps a '90-'98 GSXR1100 swingarm. Which is about 2.5 inches longer than the stock GS arm. And then just spread the the pivot area. Yes, this actually does work. Or, a Busa swing arm which is perhaps a half inch shorter than the GSXR1100 arm. Just some thoughts.
Laters
Greg
Single S.?
Hello Arttu
Wouldn't it have been easier to just single shock it? With perhaps a '90-'98 GSXR1100 swingarm. Which is about 2.5 inches longer than the stock GS arm. And then just spread the the pivot area. Yes, this actually does work. Or, a Busa swing arm which is perhaps a half inch shorter than the GSXR1100 arm. Just some thoughts.
Laters
Greg
Hello Greg,
Well, if I was starting completely new project from a bare frame then I would consider mono shocking it. But in this case it would be too much work. Stripping the whole bike to the frame, modifying the frame and getting it painted again, re-locating plenty of components to make room for shock mount etc.
In addition I think that twin shocks kind of belong to this bike
And I already have a pair of high-end shocks.
Well, if I was starting completely new project from a bare frame then I would consider mono shocking it. But in this case it would be too much work. Stripping the whole bike to the frame, modifying the frame and getting it painted again, re-locating plenty of components to make room for shock mount etc.
In addition I think that twin shocks kind of belong to this bike
And I already have a pair of high-end shocks.
G
Guest
Guest
Shocks N More
Shocks N More
Hiya Arttu
I was only wonderdering why not the single shock. You explained it all.
And it looks like your under seat area is rather full as well.
Now, how is the IHI turbo working for you?
Seems like 264 HP at 15 lbs of boost is aboput right. I am thinking, maybe to find one of those as I am trying to save money, or get a new Garret or other aftermarket ball bearing shaft turbo. They are about $1200 with integral wastegate.
I don't need 300 HP but the 250-275 is about right with loads of torque.
Tanks
Greg
Shocks N More
Hiya Arttu
I was only wonderdering why not the single shock. You explained it all.
And it looks like your under seat area is rather full as well.
Now, how is the IHI turbo working for you?
Seems like 264 HP at 15 lbs of boost is aboput right. I am thinking, maybe to find one of those as I am trying to save money, or get a new Garret or other aftermarket ball bearing shaft turbo. They are about $1200 with integral wastegate.
I don't need 300 HP but the 250-275 is about right with loads of torque.
Tanks
Greg
The IHI (VF34) works just great. Though if you are sure that you want less than 300hp and want to optimize low end performance you may want to consider something slightly smaller since this one is capable for over 350hp. But low end response with this isn't bad either. It starts producing some boost well below 4000 rpm but it needs about 5000 rpm to get on full go. Above that the response is pretty much instant.
One really good option could be IHI VF36. It's identical to my VF34 except twin scroll exhaust housing. It should spool up a bit sooner.
One really good option could be IHI VF36. It's identical to my VF34 except twin scroll exhaust housing. It should spool up a bit sooner.
G
Guest
Guest
350+ a little much
350+ a little much
Hiya Arttu
Yes, I think for general use that 300 would be my upper limit. Traction is always a problem. And the wheelies. So, I am also thinking something a little smaller would be better for my GS. I would have to get a new one. And the twin scroll 36 would be a better choice as well. I am just having some trouble finding them here. They don't seem to be as many used.
Thanks
Laters
Greg
350+ a little much
Hiya Arttu
Yes, I think for general use that 300 would be my upper limit. Traction is always a problem. And the wheelies. So, I am also thinking something a little smaller would be better for my GS. I would have to get a new one. And the twin scroll 36 would be a better choice as well. I am just having some trouble finding them here. They don't seem to be as many used.
Thanks
Laters
Greg
G
Guest
Guest
Turbos
Turbos
Yup, mucho expensive now. Used ones for a $1000? I think to just a new, properly sized one for my project. Either the Garret or the Turbonetics.
Tanx
G
Turbos
Yup, mucho expensive now. Used ones for a $1000? I think to just a new, properly sized one for my project. Either the Garret or the Turbonetics.
Tanx
G
S
Silvermachine81
Guest
I've just finished reading the whole thread and watch the videos & I am very impressed. I've been messing with these bikes for 20 years and to have that much power would be a dream!!
I'll add something that no one seems to have said....
Given that you have 264HP at the rear wheel, It's quite likely that you have 300HP or more at the crank so the design brief has been met with the reliability factor as well.
Congratulations!
I'll add something that no one seems to have said....
Given that you have 264HP at the rear wheel, It's quite likely that you have 300HP or more at the crank so the design brief has been met with the reliability factor as well.
Congratulations!
Thanks for comments!
Yes, with realistic 10-15% drivetrain loss estimation it is around 300hp at the crank. And it's plentiful in practice. However, during coming summer I'm going to try some small tricks to squeeze out more power with the same boost level. And maybe try higher boost as well, just for curiosity.
Yes, with realistic 10-15% drivetrain loss estimation it is around 300hp at the crank. And it's plentiful in practice. However, during coming summer I'm going to try some small tricks to squeeze out more power with the same boost level. And maybe try higher boost as well, just for curiosity.
Oops, it seems that I have forgot to update this...
One of nice findings with new swinger was that rear brake master cylinder must be relocated. Originally the cylinder is inside of the frame and push rod from the pedal goes between the frame tube and swinger and since new swinger is wider at that point this isn't possible any more. So I had to change cylinder location and the brake pedal as well.
For starting point I found foot pegs and pedals from some gixxer, probably 750W. First some mocking up.
Then some planning for new mounting plates.
And the same printed on aluminium sheet.
One of nice findings with new swinger was that rear brake master cylinder must be relocated. Originally the cylinder is inside of the frame and push rod from the pedal goes between the frame tube and swinger and since new swinger is wider at that point this isn't possible any more. So I had to change cylinder location and the brake pedal as well.
For starting point I found foot pegs and pedals from some gixxer, probably 750W. First some mocking up.
Then some planning for new mounting plates.
And the same printed on aluminium sheet.
The fuel system needed upgrade too since the old pump was probably on its limits. The first bit was take-off from tank since I wanted less restricted supply for the pump. I made an adapter plate for dry-break quick couplings that allow 10mm hose for the supply and 8mm for return. Genuine hand made billet parts (tm) 
I changed the fuel pump to Walbro GSL392. That's a compact and powerful pump. Only downside is over 8A current consumption which is almost twice more than my charging system can supply. I solved this by making a simple circuit that reduces voltage supplied to the pump. So in normal driving conditions the pump gets lower voltage and consumes about half of the maximum current. But when the boost reaches certain level the pump is switched to full power by the ECU, at the same time when water injection is activated.
The water injection pump got some maintenance too. On last summer it had some hiccups when it refused to supply full pressure. So I disassembled the pump but didn't find anything tragic. So I got a spare parts set from Aquamist, including all seals, springs and valves, and put the pump back together. Hopefully it will work better now. At least initial testing was looking good.
I changed the fuel pump to Walbro GSL392. That's a compact and powerful pump. Only downside is over 8A current consumption which is almost twice more than my charging system can supply. I solved this by making a simple circuit that reduces voltage supplied to the pump. So in normal driving conditions the pump gets lower voltage and consumes about half of the maximum current. But when the boost reaches certain level the pump is switched to full power by the ECU, at the same time when water injection is activated.
The water injection pump got some maintenance too. On last summer it had some hiccups when it refused to supply full pressure. So I disassembled the pump but didn't find anything tragic. So I got a spare parts set from Aquamist, including all seals, springs and valves, and put the pump back together. Hopefully it will work better now. At least initial testing was looking good.
Then it was time to get the bike back on the road.
It seems that this moderate 4" increase in the wheelbase was a good choice. There is still enough traction to lift the front wheel but wheelies are now much easier to control. And in addition now it's quite easy to spin the rear tire if I like so
One of the goals for last winter was to get the front brakes in perfect condition but that was a bit more challenging than I imagined. The brakes that came with the front end have never worked perfectly for me. They were always a bit soft and apparently the system got air in it from somewhere so they kept feeling soft no matter how much I bled them. So I thought get them sorted at once now.
I disassembled the calipers and the master cylinder, carefully cleaned and checked everything and put them back together with new seals. But for my disappointment the result was even worse than before. I spent numerous hours first by trying to bleed the system and then trying to identify the faulty component. I tried different combinations of calipers, brake hoses and so on. Finally I was sure that the master cylinder was the culprit. Since I was totally fed up to play with old parts at that point I bite a bullet and bought a brand new Braking radial master cylinder (ouch$).
With high hopes I installed the new master cylinder, bled the system again and finally realized that the result was pretty much the same than before. Now I had got enough for brakes so I forgot them for few months and returned to the topic when everything else on the bike was ready.
On that new try I disassembled the calipers once more, checked everything twice but didn't find anything. Put everything back together and for some reason the result was now slightly better. Not even close to perfect but good enough for use.
So the brakes were still needing improvement. I spotted six pot calipers from a Busa on sale for reasonable price and bought them. Since they were in nice condition I just cleaned them outside and bolted them on the bike. It was still quite tedious job to get them bled properly but finally the result was good. So it was a long and hard road but now the brakes are finally on the same level with the rest of the bike.
And a pic of the "finished" bike though there isn't much visible changes from last year.
It seems that this moderate 4" increase in the wheelbase was a good choice. There is still enough traction to lift the front wheel but wheelies are now much easier to control. And in addition now it's quite easy to spin the rear tire if I like so
One of the goals for last winter was to get the front brakes in perfect condition but that was a bit more challenging than I imagined. The brakes that came with the front end have never worked perfectly for me. They were always a bit soft and apparently the system got air in it from somewhere so they kept feeling soft no matter how much I bled them. So I thought get them sorted at once now.
I disassembled the calipers and the master cylinder, carefully cleaned and checked everything and put them back together with new seals. But for my disappointment the result was even worse than before. I spent numerous hours first by trying to bleed the system and then trying to identify the faulty component. I tried different combinations of calipers, brake hoses and so on. Finally I was sure that the master cylinder was the culprit. Since I was totally fed up to play with old parts at that point I bite a bullet and bought a brand new Braking radial master cylinder (ouch$).
With high hopes I installed the new master cylinder, bled the system again and finally realized that the result was pretty much the same than before. Now I had got enough for brakes so I forgot them for few months and returned to the topic when everything else on the bike was ready.
On that new try I disassembled the calipers once more, checked everything twice but didn't find anything. Put everything back together and for some reason the result was now slightly better. Not even close to perfect but good enough for use.
So the brakes were still needing improvement. I spotted six pot calipers from a Busa on sale for reasonable price and bought them. Since they were in nice condition I just cleaned them outside and bolted them on the bike. It was still quite tedious job to get them bled properly but finally the result was good. So it was a long and hard road but now the brakes are finally on the same level with the rest of the bike.
And a pic of the "finished" bike though there isn't much visible changes from last year.
G
Guest
Guest
Arttu, Thanks for posting all of your build details, very enjoyable following your progress. If there is a more powerfull, great looking GS out there, I haven't seen it. Congrats on completion. Ray
B
Bandit
Guest
This is an incredible bike :clap:
Would love to see and hear your beauty in a clip, Arttu.
Not often you see a luggage rack on a hot rod.
Not often you see a luggage rack on a hot rod.
Thanks for all kind compliments!
Steve, there is an onboard video from race track a couple of pages backwards.
Well, the luggage rack doesn't exactly make the bike more beautiful. But this is my daily ride during riding seasons and I need to carry some stuff with me every now and then. So some compromise between form and functionality is necessary.
Steve, there is an onboard video from race track a couple of pages backwards.
Well, the luggage rack doesn't exactly make the bike more beautiful. But this is my daily ride during riding seasons and I need to carry some stuff with me every now and then. So some compromise between form and functionality is necessary.
