GS(X)1100ESD Long term project.....

[Suzuki Mad]

This afternoons job......


Turn this.....





Into this.....





Yep the carbs are back together.


Going from one carb....





I stick the tube in the centre with the jet that screws into it. Then screw the smaller jet into the hole next to it using the green handled screwdriver.


Using the O ring kit...





Remove all old O rings (all hard and brittle after 37 years and join to all places.


Choke 1,
fuel tube 4
overflow 2
Needle float holder 1
Mixture screw 1.


Drop the needle float holder into its slot and put retaining ring in with a screw.


Fit the float and remember, the pin only goes one way!





Bowl on, flip carb and get the diaphram with needle in the tube.





Line up the little dimple in the carb body with the corresponding dimple in the diaphram and smooth down. In goes the spring and then the cap. Lastly I do the mixture screws.


These carbs have been altered to take GSX1100EFE mixture screws and the posts have been shaved down so a lot of needle sticks out.





When I removed them they were all at 1 and 3/4 turns out from seated. That done, jobs a good un for that carb.





Now repeat 4 times!

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Repeat 4 times hey.....





I start with No's 2 and 3 carb. Line the fuel supply tubes up and squeeze then sort the springed adjuster part.


Heres 3 and 4 carb lined up...





Get the others lined up right then join them with the rails.





I'm not going OEM here I am using black stainless steel button head Allens keys.


Put the upper rail on, clutch cable holder, fuel line and vacuum line and its all done.





A tad over 2 hours from start to finish. I'm going to have to wait for some more fuel hose to arrive as I don't have any for the overflow drains.


Did I say that earlier in the day I pulled 1 and 2 plugs and spun here over. There was spark on both so in theory with a bit of fuel and hoping we have compression she should fire and run once these carbs are back onboard. Overflows arriving early next week along with new battery......


I did also go through the front master cylinder earlier. I cleaned it out of all the years of sludge and goo. It does amazingly seem to be pumping as I watched as air came bubbling out of the system when I used the lever. It's clearly springing back. The refurb kit has arrived but I'm not sure it's for this model bike. I can try it though.


Next up rebuild the front end, refit the back end and get brakes working .

 

[slayer61]

Well done. You seem all over it! Keep it up!

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Had a small delivery of a headlight bulb, tail light bulb and a relay.

Now the indicators work, the headlight works but sadly the tail light doesn't. The unit on the bike has 5 wires going into a 3 pin socket, 2 browns, 2 black and white and 1 white. All that will work is the brake light when a switch is depressed. All the bulbs have been checked with a multimeter and are good.

When checking the loom feed you only get 6.3V with the headlight on. When going through the light unit the reading is 0v.

I swapped it to another tail light that has a 3 pin socket with 4 wire and a grey spare and I can get a number plate light working and a brake light but no normal tail light.

So scratching my head now. Any suggestions?

 

[slayer61]

According to my fuzzy wiring diagram the white wire is the brake light, the brown is the tail light & the black & white is the ground/return or "earth" for both. with a volt meter on the plug between the brown and black & white you should see a nominal 12 volts. If you only get 6, no light would be an expected result.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

According to my fuzzy wiring diagram the white wire is the brake light, the brown is the tail light & the black & white is the ground/return or "earth" for both. with a volt meter on the plug between the brown and black & white you should see a nominal 12 volts. If you only get 6, no light would be an expected result.

Trying to find out why I only have 6.3v is the key. Wiring isnt my area of expertise.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Clean every connection in lighting path, and all grounds, all the way up through the ones in the headlight bucket. My favorite method is to take the connectors apart, depin connectors that are in blocks, label things as you go if not obvious how things go together (or even if it is obvious), slather the connectors with naval jelly, wait 15 minutes. Flush with water, repeat if still green, dry with compressed air, spray with electrical contact spray to help evaporate any water, then a spritz of Deoxit. Some folks use dielectric grease before putting connectors back together, I typically do not.

methods vary, but all your connections need to be clean.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Well that's me for a few days. Busy with life till Tuesday.

Expected arrivals are :-

New Battery.
Fuel hose for carbs.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Had some time with the bike today.

New Yuasa battery arrived and was fitted. Solved the lighting issue. It was suggested that I try the park light system as it doesn't go through the switch and I found O had nothing. A quick check of the ignition switch showed that it has lost its rear cover and the wires were all exposed to the elements. A quick remove of the screw that holds the wire clip in place and the bottom of the switch comes away. Pop the two halves off and that exposes the copper controls and the pins. Well the pin side was really crusty so a quick clean with scotch pad and reassemble gave me all the lights I needed. YEAH!!!!!

AS I had power it was a quick check of the gear position indicator. To do that I put mole grips on the changer shaft. Flipped it into 1st and 1st came up on the indicator. Tried to pop it to 2nd and the neutral light flickered. It also sounded like a bag of bolts and horrible sounds but I couldn't engage 2nd gear. Without a chain on I cant spin the rear wheel to see if I can get it to mesh. The box when moving to 2nd sounds like a horrible rattling of loose washers and parts.

So now I'm wondering if its pull the engine time and strip it or put the carbs on and fire it up hoping that a spinning engine will help it change gear.

I think I know what I have to do.........

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Has to stop to collect daughter from school. When I got home had another play.

After spinning the drive sprocket around a few times tried the gears again and finally found all the cogs in the box! Yeah.

With that success there was only one place to go. The carbs were hold on by the front rubbers and cables only, no headers as she has no front end but it was give it a go time.

No choke, then half choke and all of a sudden very loudly she popped and then reved up to 4,000 rpm and stayed there. Pulling off the choke she sat at 2,000 rpm happily firing on all 4!! result. The engine might be tatty but she fires and works. Needs a lot but she's got potential.

I do have a video but dont know how to post it. Sorry.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Been busy sorting out rear brakes.

The rear calliper had one moving piston and one seized piston. The moving one came out nicely, light rust on the lip where the boot seal goes but nothing on the sliding part that warrants replacement, yet. The boot seal was fine but the inner seal were 'glued' into the recess in the calliper. Had to use a pick to prise it away from its home. The recess was full of old brake fluid congealed and also growing aluminium. A small wire wheel on a dremmel and a brush cleaned the grove out. Soaked the seal in brake cleaner and scraped the worst of the aluminium growth off as I could. The part of the seal that the piston slides on was fine so for now I refitted it. Put the piston back in, it slipped in nicely.

Holding the piston with mole grips and using a front brake lever system pumped the other piston out. It didnt want to go and I had to get a lot of pressure before it finally let go of its hold. Amazingly the piston was fine. It just had lots of rubber seal stuck to it where the seal has seen better days. Did the same to this side as the other cleaning wise. The seal was washed in brake cleaner and tried on the piston. There was clear daylight between the piston and seal. It will need to be changed to be used on the road. Refitted it back in and slid the piston back. The boot seal also had holes in it so that will need to be changed.

The master cylinder was also seized solid. A lot of XP90 freeing agent helped but I had to use a pick to pull away years of aluminium and rust build up on the washers, circlip and piston pusher part to get to the seized piston. Tried to tap it in but nothing moved. I was hoping that tapping it in would break its hold and the spring would do its job and push it back out with nothing holding it. In the end I had to removed the bolt at the top of the unit and put a long punch down inside and hammer it out.

Of the seal kit I destroyed the very top seal fitted to the spring. Once out the internal bore is fine plus the other seals are fine. A quick clean up of the piston and it was refitted for now. The whole guts of the unit will need to be replaced before going back on the road. Amazingly with the damaged upper seal the unit actually pumps fluid. Both parts are now back on the bike as it's easier to store that way.

Today I checked through the replacement front callipers that I bought. Sold as good callipers the bleed nipples are seized the same as mine so they are not an quick fix for Tuesday. With my ones still at the garage waiting to have the bleed nipples taken out it looks like Tuesday she will have no brakes to go to have the gear linkage sorted out. Oh well.

Sorry no photos as cameras and brake fluid don't mix.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Busy day in the workshop.....hit in the head a few times by different things such as bolts washer, brake fluid, brake cleaner in the eye and mouth!!!!


Front end rebuilt with the spare forks. Sadly the left fork seal is leaking but its not being ridden just rolled around. Spare forks right side had a very loose bottom stud. The nut is seized on the stud so had to remove the lot. It was a struggle to get the new front fork brace in under the mudguard and with the pipe holders but managed it on the 11 or 12th go. Then 4 attempts to get the front wheel in pinching my fingers a few times. But is was finally all back in.


The rear end was more fun. Had to put a bottle jack between the frame where the swinging arm goes and push it out a little to allow the standard 'ESD' swinging arm to go back in. The JMC must be a little bit narrower to have compressed the frame a tad. Rear shocks fitted but I would never want to ride on the road with them. The big issue was Suzuki parts! I ordered all the washers to space out the upper shock mount. What came was a whole load of washers but none that were the parts number I had. So In the end I just guessed, threw it together and will sort it out later. In the parts book it gives washer thickness so I will work off that. I also had spares leftover so that's fine.


I did think about throwing a chain on the bike as I have 2 kits but decided against it in the end. One is a link less and the other has a link. I dont have the compressing tool to rivet it and the bike isnt going to be ridden with no brakes or exhaust.


I also moved all the bits out of the way so the guys can get at the parts that need fixing on Tuesday.


As tomorrows Saturday I will pop down to the local welders and have a chat about getting the headers bolt out and the few little welding jobs I need doing.


On the parts front I have managed to find bolts that go into the crankcases to remove the oil cooler and I have also found a 'ESD' filter front. So it's possible to get it sorted. That said I am going to need a big favour from the members on here from the USA. I'm going to need the fairing lowers for either side if the cooler comes off as they have been chopped around to get the cooler in. I'm going to need a left and right hand fairing lowers in white if people have them spare. Don't mind missing lugs as I can make new ones but I can't repair the ones I have.


So asessment done.


It works and a lot of it can be repaired. Its just a question of how deep are my pockets.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Saturday came and I popped to the welder fabricator. The answer was 'yes' they can fix the swinging arm bracket, weld the chain guard up and put a brace plate in to strengthen it so that's good. They can even sort the snapped header bolt. The guy is into Kawasaki triples......

The reason I have to go to a welder fabricator is I was never shown how to fabricate stuff and I dont have the kit to do stuff like that. No welder, taps and dies, press, drill press etc. I only have what I would say are basic tools.

Tuesday came, bike to the garage to have the gear change shaft repaired. Man with a van turned up and collected the bike. We dropped it off and I was told this might take a few days. About 3pm I get a call. Bike is ready to be collected. On arrival, my blood started to boil. I know she's tatty and needs a lot of love but you dont park a bike up against the wall and just rest it against the brick wall. The new brake lever and bar ends were damaged from wall rash. So a choice. Do you say something or do you just ignore it as you will need them again in the future?

Paid and collected the bike. Brought it home and parked it up. Next up is to play with the Motad exhaust pipes and see if I can get it to fit......

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Prior to garage. You can see no stub for the gear change to go to.



Parts for the garage to use to make it look like original.



How it came home. Its not OEM but it works.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Well not a lot happening on the project at the moment.

Had a small off of one of my other bikes so I am recovering at the moment. That said, its giving me time to sort out parts that I will need and what I will need to get and what direction to go down.

Should have taken her to the local welder to get a few little bits of welding work done but as I am its not a good idea. Maybe next weekend......

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Another week and another week of very limited progress.

Been checking out parts, what I have in my own store and buts that I will have to order in.

Still thinking about what way to go.

I managed to source 2 of the bolts and washers to remove the aftermarket oil cooler but its still down to removing the filter housing and seeing if its a later EFE model one or the original. I am hoping.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

Got a call from the local Suzuki main dealer about a 'cap' for the rear mudguard. Nice bit.....


Popped in to see a London Boards who did my GS1000 carbs and showed me how to do them. Came away with a set of rear indicators and a period Motad Neta from a GS1100G in Gold for the pricely sum of ?0. OK, the collector needs repairing but headers and tail pipe all in good condition.


Also got a call from the local classic bike shop. My callipers were ready for collection. Bleed nipples out and all good. Need to repaint the callipers and they need new seals but the rest is good.


Managed to pick up the bolts and washers to remove the oil cooler from the engine. Just got to take the oil filter housing off and see if its an ESD version (I am hoping.)


Parts wise I need:-


Steering head bearings
Swinging arm bearings
Side stand switch
6 cushions
6 bolts to hold fairing on
5 covers for footrests and exhaust retaining bolt
Exhaust retaining bolt.

 

[dorkburger]

London Boards used to be a regular here. Hope all is well with him.

 

[Suzuki Mad]

London Boards used to be a regular here. Hope all is well with him.

Yes, he was fine.