GS1000 Base Gasket Replace. w/ Pics

[Guy]

Nice job and well documented.
Just to clarify a point, the 1000 is not a bored out 850. It has a longer stroke and a completely different crank. The 850 is a bored out 750 though.
The egg shaped o rings are critical as they are sealing the two oil passages to the head so always replace them regardless.
An oiled or greased base gasket will seal quicker and more effectively than a dry one. The gasket needs to swell up to seal properly.

 

[Billyboy]

Nice job and well documented.
Just to clarify a point, the 1000 is not a bored out 850. It has a longer stroke and a completely different crank. The 850 is a bored out 750 though.
The egg shaped o rings are critical as they are sealing the two oil passages to the head so always replace them regardless.
An oiled or greased base gasket will seal quicker and more effectively than a dry one. The gasket needs to swell up to seal properly.

Good to know. Should I expect a little leaking to start with? I did replace the egg rings.

I thought the 1000 was a stroked out 750. Same case, isn't it?

 

[80GS1000]

Now cams and timing...

Nice job so far. The cams/timing part I'm waiting on with baited breath, seems like it might be the toughest part of this process?

 

[Billyboy]

Nice job so far. The cams/timing part I'm waiting on with baited breath, seems like it might be the toughest part of this process?

I think so. The plan is to read the manual, ask a few quaestions, make damn sure it's right before start up, (degree wheel check).

I'm only taking it one step at a time. If I look at the whole job I'll get scared and stop. "Too hard for lil ol' me."

 

[Guest]

Nice job so far. The cams/timing part I'm waiting on with baited breath, seems like it might be the toughest part of this process?

i found it scary only in principle. once you go through the manual, theres basically only stamped lines and numbers to align and some cam chain rivets to count :?
literary

 

[Big T]

Good to know. Should I expect a little leaking to start with? I did replace the egg rings.

I thought the 1000 was a stroked out 750. Same case, isn't it?

There should be no leaking at all

Nope, entirely different engine, except for the shims

The cams are really easy. Line up the marks, count the links and install. Rotate the motor a few times and see if everything is still lined up. Torque down the cam caps. Check the valve clearances and adjust as needed. Carefully torque down the valve cover.

If you get stuck along the way, pass the time by bolting up carbs and exhaust. Fuel it, sync the carbs and you're ready to test ride

 

[Billyboy]

MAN O MAN OH MAN!8-O

I screwed up.

I snapped off a bolt in the cam journal caps.#-o

 

[Jackbob]

Hmmm - well i seem to remember mentioning this annoying scenario earlier in the piece. Mine snapped off as i was undoing it. The bugger would not come out using an easyout and i ended up having to take the head to a shop to have it dealt to with an end mill, and then a threaded insert inserted.

FYI - I have sent Z1 an e mail regarding the head gasket oil seals.

A mate of mine said he always uses a little loctite and if anything under-torques these bolts.

Good luck!!

 

[salty_monk]

Anything left to get hold of? Room to get in there with a mig to tack a nut on the end?

Dan

 

[Suzuki_Don]

I got the cylinders and head back on.
It's really simple, just follow the manual and go slow.

Now cams and timing...

BillyBoy I need a bit of info. When you put the cylinder head gasket on did you have to put "O" rings on the four corner studs or did your gasket have them incorporated as part of the head gasket. What type of head gasket was it that you used, Suzuki OEM, Vesrah, or what?
Thanks in advance.
Still waiting on my head to come back from machine shop.
Cheers

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Remove the cam journal cap where you snapped the bolt. If it is one of the outer bolts you may be able to drill it out and do a repair on the head without taking the head off again. If you can file the top of tge broken bolt to make it easier to centre punch it before drilling. Use eziout if possible. If it is an inside bolt you will not be able to line up the drill with the broken bolt as the top frame rail will be in the way. Whatever happens replace all the cam journal cap bolts as they will be fatigued in some way. That's probably why the bolt broke in the first place. Tension on these bolts is only 6.5 lb/ft. I had 6 of the 8 bolts on my exhaust cam side stripped (reason why head is at machine shop).
Cheers and good luck.

 

[Billyboy]

It's the outside left intake bolt.
Nohing left to weld to.
I bought an easyout. or rather a screw extractor.

I'm going to try to drill it and pull it.

 

[Billyboy]

BillyBoy I need a bit of info. When you put the cylinder head gasket on did you have to put "O" rings on the four corner studs or did your gasket have them incorporated as part of the head gasket. What type of head gasket was it that you used, Suzuki OEM, Vesrah, or what?
Thanks in advance.
Still waiting on my head to come back from machine shop.
Cheers

Vesrah gasket set. I didn't put the rubber gasket thingines on. looked wierd.
Jackbob and I are wrestling with it on GS1000 Head-aches" thread.

Check it out.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Vesrah gasket set. I didn't put the rubber gasket thingines on. looked wierd.
Jackbob and I are wrestling with it on GS1000 Head-aches" thread.

Check it out.

OK. Thanks Billyboy. I have a Vesrah gasket set as well so will run into the same issues.
Cheers

 

[UncleMike]

Good luck on getting that bolt out.

 

[Billyboy]

Thanks for the luck. It helped.

I drilled it, tried to use the screw remover, realized I bought the wrong size, drove back to Canadian Tire, bought the right one, back to the shop, VOILA! Out she popped!:-D\\/:-D\\/

The cams are in, timing is right, tensioner is set, valve clearances are adjusted. All I need to do now is: post the pics I took, replace the valve cover and gasket, install the carbs, and tear it up!

 

[Billyboy]

i found it scary only in principle. once you go through the manual, theres basically only stamped lines and numbers to align and some cam chain rivets to count :?
literary

It's exactly as you described. So simple and easy it's scary, as long as you don't snap a bolt off.

 

[Guest]

MAN O MAN OH MAN!8-O

I screwed up.

I snapped off a bolt in the cam journal caps.#-o

not to worry
i stripped more than 1 thread so i ended up heli-coil ALL of them :shock:
yup, 16 heli-coils
no snapped bolts, no stripped threads
oh yes, replaced most of those bolts too
it's part of the game

 

[Guest]

A mate of mine said he always uses a little loctite and if anything under-torques these bolts.

not sure if such a good idea
the torque setting isnt that big to start with
and the camshafts rotate a lot
and the valve springs make for a lot of resistance transfered to the cam journals
you use loctite only so the bolts dont come undone
torque setting is there to provide the correct "fit" between parts and in this case to provide optimum clearance to avoid excessive wear on the journals
especially so on the models that have no camshaft bearings and the camshaft housing is just alu alloy

 

[Guest]

oh, did i mention that i used around 50 heli-coils all together on that engine :shock::shock::shock:
now i can do them with my eyes closed, drill in one hand, the vacuum cleaner in the other (to take the metal shavings out) \\/