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GS1000 fuel cap gasket/seal - anyone found a replacement?

philosopheriam

philosopheriam

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Folks,

I searched the forum but did not find anything definitive - has anyone found a replacement seal for the a GS1000 fuel cap? It's not just a washer, otherwise, the replacement would be easy.
 
The fuel caps are available new, ($76.00) but don't show the gasket as a separate part.

I bought a new one, so probably have a spare one, let me check what it's like.

If you do buy one they are very easy to rekey to make the ignition key fit.

David.
 
Kiwi Canuck said:
The fuel caps are available new, ($76.00) but don't show the gasket as a separate part.

I bought a new one, so probably have a spare one, let me check what it's like.

If you do buy one they are very easy to rekey to make the ignition key fit.

David.
Click to expand...

I took my old one apart and soaked the seal in some silicone spray for awhile - the seal itself isn't cracked or dry-rotted, so, I might be ok. I'll polish the top of the cap to make it shiny again, and I'll bend the "spring" on the backside of the seal a smidge to allow it to have more contact pressure. Hopefully, I will be ok, but if not I suppose a new cap will be in my future.

I thought of buying an aftermarket cap and stealing the seal off of it, however, they don't look the same.
 
David,

How do I remove the lock from the old cap to gain access to the wafers/tumblers? I just accidentally dropped my old cap and dented the snot out of it, so, I just purchased a new OEM one. :-/
 
philosopheriam said:
David,

How do I remove the lock from the old cap to gain access to the wafers/tumblers? I just accidentally dropped my old cap and dented the snot out of it, so, I just purchased a new OEM one. :-/
Click to expand...

Ouch, I did the same to one of mine hence the new one as well.
Remove the 2 screws from the back and remove the cover, you should see a rubber O-ring around the end of the cylinder plug, remove that and with the key inserted you should be able to depress the retaining wafer and pull the cylinder plug out. (if not remove the key and push it out once you depress the retaining wafer in)

BTW I posted a tutorial on rekeying locks, just can't find it right now though.

Don't file the tops of the wafers, it will render the lock almost useless and the key may not stay in when you unlock the cap and it will go flying off as you remove it.

There are 5 cuts (wafers) and only 4 depths, 1,2,3 & 4, (1 is the full height of the keyblank, 4 is the deepest cut) try and find the correct ones to match your key and then take the old ones from your old lock, watch out for the little springs, so don't lose them.

If you ever have to file a wafer take one that is too high and file the inside with a mini file, that way it maintains the integrity of the lock.

If you send me the old key code and the new key code I can give you the codes for each to make it easier.

Hope this helps.

Regards, David
 
Kiwi Canuck said:
Ouch, I did the same to one of mine hence the new one as well.
Remove the 2 screws from the back and remove the cover, you should see a rubber O-ring around the end of the cylinder plug, remove that and with the key inserted you should be able to depress the retaining wafer and pull the cylinder plug out. (if not remove the key and push it out once you depress the retaining wafer in)

BTW I posted a tutorial on rekeying locks, just can't find it right now though.

Don't file the tops of the wafers, it will render the lock almost useless and the key may not stay in when you unlock the cap and it will go flying off as you remove it.

There are 5 cuts (wafers) and only 4 depths, 1,2,3 & 4, (1 is the full height of the keyblank, 4 is the deepest cut) try and find the correct ones to match your key and then take the old ones from your old lock, watch out for the little springs, so don't lose them.

If you ever have to file a wafer take one that is too high and file the inside with a mini file, that way it maintains the integrity of the lock.

If you send me the old key code and the new key code I can give you the codes for each to make it easier.

Hope this helps.

Regards, David
Click to expand...

Thank you - when the new cap arrives I will go down this road. A month or so ago, I had to buy a new used ignition switch for my restoration and I was able to move the wafers around and only file one a smidge to get the lock to work perfectly...
 
I now remember reading your write up on the ignition, nice job on removing those hardened roll pins, did you just drill them out?

And I'm sure you'll have no trouble with the gas cap rekey, but then again you may want to rekey the ignition and seat lock to match the new keys as there's nothing like a brand new set of keys to go with a brand new fully restored bike.

Good luck and all I can say about your rebuild is WOW, you have taken this hobby to a whole new level.

David.
 
Kiwi Canuck said:
I now remember reading your write up on the ignition, nice job on removing those hardened roll pins, did you just drill them out?

And I'm sure you'll have no trouble with the gas cap rekey, but then again you may want to rekey the ignition and seat lock to match the new keys as there's nothing like a brand new set of keys to go with a brand new fully restored bike.

Good luck and all I can say about your rebuild is WOW, you have taken this hobby to a whole new level.

David.
Click to expand...

Yes, I carefully drilled the roll pins and installed one size larger.

I actually already have a set of new keys - when I bought the bike, it had no keys. So, I had a locksmith cut a set of new keys for me based on the key # which was stamped on the gas cap.

So, in this instance, I'll opt to just rekey the gas cap.

Thanks for the compliments, btw!
 
For what it's worth. I just replaced the rubber "seal"on a 71 BMW by cleaning the old gasket/seal completely. Then I used a couple of drinking glasses to make a couple of circles on an old bicycle inner tube that I had cut to give me a flat piece of rubber. Then once I had the size correct I used Honda Bond to glue the new seal onto the old cap. Worked like a charm.
 
When I was doing it my wife said it looked like it was cork that BMW originally used. Since it doesn't really live in a submerged fuel environment and what I wanted was an air seal I thought an inner tube would be just fine. Personally I've never opened a fuel cap and saw that area wet unless you turn the tank upside down.
 
Kiwi Canuck said:
The fuel caps are available new, ($76.00) but don't show the gasket as a separate part.

I bought a new one, so probably have a spare one, let me check what it's like.

If you do buy one they are very easy to rekey to make the ignition key fit.

David.
Click to expand...

How easy? Is there a thread? I couldn't find one...
 
JoeNashville said:
How easy? Is there a thread? I couldn't find one...
Click to expand...

Joe,

It's been awhile since I re-keyed my new gas cap, but it wasn't difficult at all - look at some earlier posts in this thread and the procedure for removing the lock cylinder is given.

By rearranging the wafers in the new lock cylinder and substituting some of the old ones, I was able to get my new gas cap to work perfectly with my existing ignition key.
 
Buy a cheap china knock off and take the gasket off it. thats what i do all the time. throw the rest away
 
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