GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

Another fuse panel? LOL, I'll put it in the trunk. I think the heat issue was a poor contact surface when I was checking continuity. I have the bulk of the original wiring powered by the Bussmann fuse panel with new wire. I've been busy dong Microsquirt work but will check the wire again next time I test the Microsquirt. It held up for 30+ years, I doubt it will be an issue. If it had, we'd have probably read about it here as a common malfunction.

The fuel rail fix with fuel line seems like it will be a decent fix. JB Weld has a good track record for repairing gas tanks. I have about 50 PSI on it right now and will let it sit overnight to see how it holds up.

 

[posplayr]

Another fuse panel? LOL, I'll put it in the trunk. I think the heat issue was a poor contact surface when I was checking continuity. I have the bulk of the original wiring powered by the Bussmann fuse panel with new wire. I've been busy dong Microsquirt work but will check the wire again next time I test the Microsquirt. It held up for 30+ years, I doubt it will be an issue. If it had, we'd have probably read about it here as a common malfunction.

The fuel rail fix with fuel line seems like it will be a decent fix. JB Weld has a good track record for repairing gas tanks. I have about 50 PSI on it right now and will let it sit overnight to see how it holds up.

I went back to your first post. Looks like you maybe a bit beyond the fuse panel upgrade stage.

 

[Steve]

Have not checked a "bussman fuse panel", but the Eastern Beaver box might be a nice upgrade. I have installed three of them so far, will be doing another one later this summer. I install these as a replacement for the stock fuse panel, not a supplement. A couple of advantages are that there are EIGHT fused outlets in the box. Two of them are "hot" all the time, the other six are switched with the key. One of the "always hot" outlets can be used to run power up to the ignition switch (the stock red wire), then use the orange wire that comes back from the switch to trigger the relay that turns on the rest of the box. The second "always hot" outlet is great for heated clothing or a battery tender. Heated clothing on an "always hot" outlet?? Sure. You are only going to have a short wire feeding the clothing, and when you turn the bike off, you are likely to dismount, forcing a disconnection of the clothing.

.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

This will surely offend someone, but those guys are overpriced. Their basic panel with nothing is $60 and has 8 circuits with no internal relay capability- all relays are external, the "short" relay kit is another $30. The Bussmann is $30 and has 20 circuits: 3 - bussed 280 mini relays or 5 - 280 micro relays & 10+ mini fuses. I wired mine so I have a combination of battery (4) and switched (11) circuits.

Advantage Bussmann. You should check it out. I'll re-post the wiring diagram so the detail is available.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

In the one step forward and one step back department, I'm not leaking any fuel from the rail or injectors. The drip from the center front of the head is still there after re-torquing the head. It seems to be coming from the area of the 6mm bolt from the block to the head. I suspect the aftermarket gasket that came with the pistons may be the cause, or possibly the head is not flat, will have to see if the machine shop checked it. At any rate, lots more work.

My trigger wheel is due in Friday, but I won't be able to get back to work on the bike til Monday.

 

[mrl1000l]

I don't think you ever posted a pic of your head gasket, was cam tunnel opening in the gasket flush with the opening in the cylinder block or was the gasket opening a 1/4 inch larger all the way around? I think those after market gaskets are meant to be used with the cam tunnel o-ring, but the 1074 cylinder block doesn't have a groove for that o-ring.

I ordered mine from cometic and specified that the opening for the cam tunnel to be the exact size as the tunnel in the cylinder block, no o-ring.

If it's already noticeably leaking and it's hardly been run, it could be big trouble later.

Looking forward to seeing this mod finished!

 

[salty_monk]

Assume it's leaking at the joint not travelling up the bolt? Just a thought...

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

The OEM 1100G head gasket is $94! Ouch. I looked for a Cometic head gasket and it looks like the popular one is for the 16V motors. I did find one (Cometic #8030) at Z1 Enterprises for under $50 that says it is fiber. It shows as fitting both the 1000 and 1100 8V motors.
COC8030

Equivalent to OEM: 11241-49000, 11241-49000-H17, (73.5mm) Head Gasket - 73.5mm - 997cc, 1085cc 1100cc .043" Fiber - 2 Valve -

Fits Suzuki GS1000 (all), GS1100GD/GK2/GKD/GKE/GKZ/GLD/GLZ/GZ/LT/SD (2 valve per cylinder.


$48.23 Ea

The OEM GS1000G gasket is Suzuki #11141-49002 SUPERCEEDED BY 11141-49003, and shows as fitting all 78-81 850G and 1000C/E/G/L/N/S models.

The OEM GS1100G gasket is Suzuki 11141-49400 SUPERCEEDED BY 11141-49410, and shows fitting 82-83 1100G models only.

I ordered mine from cometic and specified that the opening for the cam tunnel to be the exact size as the tunnel in the cylinder block, no o-ring.

I found their site, and when you look up by application, it sends you to another site (Shop engine parts) and there is no head gasket listed there for the 8V 1100, only a base gasket.

If you look up a 2V GS1000, the 8030 turns up along with an 8408, which is more expensive (my guess is that is the copper version, I verified this on a British parts site). Bore is listed as 73.5mm for both. I have sent Cometic an email asking for guidance.

Salty,
I've cleaned it and felt with my finger around the bolt and head/block joint. It seems like it is starting at the joint. Based upon the totality of the circumstances, I think the mismatch of the head gasket is the problem.

 

[salty_monk]

You can sometimes get good NOS gasket deals on EBay...

 

[mrl1000l]

The problem with the 8030 is it is built with a wide cam chain tunnel for use with an o-ring. I called cometic when I ordered mine. I used their 8030 as a base template and had them make the cam tunnel opening smaller to eliminate the need for the o-ring, since the 1074 cylinder block doesn't have the o-ring groove. It was $63 shipped.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

I wonder if they still have the specs? Seems like they'd keep the details in case someone else (like me ) needed one.

I saw a proper # OEM one on eBay for around $50.

 

[mrl1000l]

The OEM 8030 fiber gasket is $54 and they will make them to any spec you request at no extra charge. My sales order number was 290208. I had them make mine with 74mm fire rings as a perfect fit for my bore, which on your 73.5 bore will lower your CR a smidgen. Speaking of which, I know CR was an issue you were worried about early on in this build, I think you can also specify a thicker fiber if you need to. Stock 8030 is .043", ask them what thicknesses are available if that is still a concern of yours.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Good info, thanks a lot.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

The wheels arrived and I was able to press-fit one after grinding down the OEM tooth. I took some pics and will post them here later, the camera battery died. The RPM in Tuner Studio seems to be jumping around a lot. The air gap is larger than expected at .055 (was aiming for .035), so I will have to tweak the pickup a little.

It still did not start, but I got a loud backfire. I need to run the trigger wheel program, which takes some time but will give me a graphic readout of what the MS is seeing from the wheel.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Here are the wheel pics. The first few are of the one with the notch for the OEM tooth. It was an easier fit than I thought it might have been. The last couple are the other wheel that pressed on to the advance shaft. Also fairly easy to do, but of course alignment is critical- though this can be adjusted via the MS trigger wheel settings.









I reloaded the trigger sensor program and the square waves are all over the map for uniformity- some are thick, others thin. I tried both wheels, and also adjusted the VR sensor gap down to .026. That seemed to help some, but you can't output the trigger sensor chart, and I can't easily do screencaps on my laptop.

I've redrawn the wheel with the following changes:
Diameter increased from 1.15 to 1.17".
Outer diameter circle decreased to .75".

This makes the teeth deeper.

I also designed a 12-1 wheel, which should more closely mimic the original tooth.


UPDATE
Since I have 3 wheels and a sawzall, I cut the teeth deeper on one of the wheels with the smooth bore.
Here's a screencap of the modified 24-2 wheel, it is getting more uniform, but I think a 12-1 is the best solution here.

 

[Guest]

Backifire

Backifire

My thoughts.
First, I think the trigger wheel may be too small. You could just get a GSXR one which may also be a 24-2 tooth unit. $25 from Ebay.
Second, you may be missing a cam position sensor. As these systems utilize when and send a signal during the missing tooth section on the main trigger. Not sure if the MegaS system uses this or not. But you could graft a newer, 2005+ GSXR 1000 system onto the GS for less than $500.
Now, I have also thought about letting you borrow my GPZ1100 fuel pump to test but it is going to be in storage for the next three to four months. Same for the 750 Turbo pump.
Anyway, thanks for listening.
Laters
G

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

There is no question it is small. I think it is likely too small for the 24-2 application, and the 12-1 may be just right (Goldilocks GS ).

The cam sensor is optional, from what I've read it looks like this is used mostly for sequential injection, which I am not using.

If I had $500 I'd put it towards the shiny black 1-owner GS1000 in Wisconsin. This is a low-budget operation, as is everything I do.

I'm OK for the fuel pump as far as I know. It may be the controller needs reset. I'm not working on that right now or the oil leak, just want to get it to start once so I know I'm in the ballpark on timing.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Heard back from Cometic:
For your application, the 1000 and 1100 will use the same gasket with our design.


Based on the prior info here, I have questions about that. I'm just going to use an OEM gasket.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Any opinions on the Cometic copper head gasket? The OEM ones on eBay are all sold, but there is a Cometic for under $60 that is supposed to replace the 1100G gasket by part #. From what I've read, the fiber/steel gaskets are best for stock applications.

 

[Steve]

..., and I can't easily do screencaps on my laptop.

You have a "Print Screen" button? Might be "prt sc" or something similar, but I have not seen a keyboard yet that did not have it.

When the screen is showing what you want, press the "Print Screen" button.
Open up "Paint". Might be "MS Paint", "Paint Brush" or some other variant, depending on your version of Windoze.
In the blank screen press CTL+V to paste your screen shot.
Drag the sides of the picture to match the screen shot, save it, upload to PhotoBucket (or wherever), then post the link.

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