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GS1000G questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Backtobiking
  • Start date Start date
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Backtobiking

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I got hold of an 81 GS1000G that had been neglected by the previous owner. I am about to do a few things in my spare time so that I can ride in coming spring. The # 1 carburetor (left most) has a broken float pin hinge. On the way to me is a bank of 4 Mikuni BS34SS carbs removed from a 83 or 84 GS1100 something. I plan to either replace my exisitng # 1 carb with the # 1 carb coming or replace all 4 after cleaning and rebuilding. I have a Clymer book. Are these 2 banks of 4 carbs the same? If not, can I make the newer one work?

Also, what sizes of hose do I need for the fuel cock to carb fuel line and other feed lines? The exisitng ones are pretty bad. I also have to replace the fuel filter. Please help.

Thanks.
 
first...Let me be clear. I don't know the answer to your questions. I do know that you have a better chance of the carbs you have coming fitting your bike if they are from a G model and not an E, that is your first hurdle. If they are from an 1100G I suspect you will be OK. If from an E???? You need to hear from someone with more knowlwedge than I.

If they are the right size....mouth of carb to the boots...You are probably OK. If they don't match up there is no reasonable way to expect them to fit. Of course it can be done, but I used the word reasonable.

You could check bike bandit and see if the numbers match up on the different years.
 
Carbs should be the same, possibly black instead of silver, use the jets from your carbs, the newer ones will probably have a different size. For me it would be easier to swap the 4 carb set, than replacing the #1 carb. Unless it has been removed, there is a filter in the tank. Hoses from petcock to carbs fit better without an in line filter. Sorry, don't know hose sizes
 
yes on the carb model according to my owners manual. A lot of people (including me) run the 5/16" blue urethane fuel line. Inline filters are a love em or hate em item. I have had both setups and couldn't tell the differance. If the bike has been sittng a long time look over the inside of the tank carefully and remove the petcock to clean and check the screen. Enjoy the bike.
 
GS1000G Questions

GS1000G Questions

Thanks for very quick replies. I thank all of you.

The carb set I bought are supposed to have been pulled from a GS1100G. I think the seller indicated 84 and I checked the seller's photos. They looked pretty much like the ones I have. Both are Mikuni BS34SS constant velocity type. ETA is a few days. I am very anxious.

Since the K&L rebuild kits I recently obtained are for the GS1000G. Can I just replace the components with corresponding ones from the kit?

Yeah, I think replacing the whole bank is better. But I have to see the ones that are on way to me. I hope they are in better shape than the set I now have.

The fuel feed line to the carb look bigger than other hose lines. Is this main feed hose 5/16"? What about other smaller diameter lines. What size(s) are they?

Is cleaning the fuel cock difficult? Do I have to buy some sort of rebuild kit even for that?

Thanks.
 
With the K&L kits they have quality float needle, seats, idle mixture screws (Needle screws) and gaskets. If you are staying stock on the motor take out the jets(mains, pilot and pilot air) out of your stock carbs and clean them up and use them. I don't suggest using the K&L jets. Stick with the mikuni jets. Remember if you're changing the float needle and seat adjust your float heigth because it will change with the new parts(VERY IMPORTANT)
I also suggest just splitting the carbs and buying some Berrymans carb dip. Replace all your o-rings with these http://www.cycleorings.com/
Also follow this step by step guide and you can't go wrong.
http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
You will also have to switch out your diaphragms and jet needle out of your stock carbs because the needle in the new carb bank might be different and your bike will not run right with them.
 
GS1000G Question

GS1000G Question

Thanks very much.

I hope I"ll let you know in 2 to 3 weeks.

I am certainly glad I am in this forum because a lot more have to be done on this bike and all of you have been helpful.

Thank again.
 
The main gas feed line is the 5/16" line. Check Bike Bandit, Alpha Sports, and some of the other online suppliers and also look at the buyer review section of the forum for quality suppliers. The online schematics are great for diagrams / sizes and helpful if not always accurate on availability. If you have a local Suzuki dealer check in there as well for parts and pricing. I am lucky that the local dealer I go to is very competitive on OEM parts and catalog parts. They will order parts for me and I do not pay for shipping or have minimum order amounts. I don't mind paying a little extra to support a local business when you are treated as a valued customer. Expect to wait a few days for ordered items since 25 year old parts are not usually on the shelf.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Thanks. I will order not from my local dealers but from Bike Bandit or the likes.

It's better to order old parts at night with a drink in my hand than to explain to a local Suzuki dealer the parts I need and be marked up 2X or more.

Thanks for advice.
 
I find it cheaper to buy from the dealer. No shipping costs and for original equipment, it is cheaper than bike bandit.
 
Gs1000g Questions

Gs1000g Questions

Regarding buying from local dealers, I think you are right most of the time. Here in NYC the situation is slightly different. NYC is not moto-centric and real estate has shot up over the last few years. I have a feeling that dealers also buy by mail order on light and low cost stuff. But they need a markup to survive. Some are greedy.

When it comes to new original parts that are heavy, say-the engine block- I don't think I have a choice but to visit them.

Thanks for the tip.
 
I received my Mikuni constant velocity carb set 3 days ago. Following instructions recommended, I removed the top cover, the slide assembly, the main and pilot jets of both sets and identified them. As I removed the 2 holding plates that hold the 4 "new" carbs together, I was having a hard time removing 4 of the many screws. Once removed, I saw the aluminum from the carb casing embedded between the screws' thread. This "new" set is not as clean as I expected.

The only problem I have with my existing carbs is a broken hinge for the float pin in carb # 1. The part that broke off took away roughly 170 degrees of the round hole where the pin goes into. The float pin is still being held by remaining the 190 degrees of the broken hinge hole.

Also, with the cover and slide assembly removed and looking down the inside of the carbs from the top in the "new" set, I noticed a very small hole about 1/2" from the main jet in each carb which I don't see in my existing carbs. I also notice the while my exising carb # 2 has a vacuum hose the "new" carb2 has a red rubber cap on the vacuum port.

Late last night, I was thinking about replacing only carb #1, transfer existing main and pilot jets over and replace some components from the K&L kit. But with the difference(s) I notice, I am skeptical.

I am also thinking about finding a way reinforce the float pin by applying a drop of aluminum bond at the broken hole.

I am disappointed and desperate.

Please advise.
 
Digital camera + Photo bucket.com & copy and paste IMG = even better advice - the guessing.
If they are BS34SS carbs they should work. I added a different year carb to my rack and had no problems. If your having trouble getting the rails off that hold the carbs use an impact screwdriver. If you don't have one and plan on working on your GS just get one. It will save alot of headaches.
You didn't take all the threads out of the hole did you? Can you still thread a bolt into it?​
 
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IIRC the 850 also used 34 mm carbs, with rejetting they might work as well. The 750 - 550 models used 32 mm carbs, although there might be exceptions. At least it would broaden your search if you could use 850 carbs.
 
Based on what I have, it looks I don't have much choice but to go ahead and continue work on my "new" carbs. Again, my only problem is the broken float pin hinge in my # 1 stock carb.

carba.jpg


The newer used BS34SS carbs I bought very recently has a tiny hole about 1/2" from the mainjet housing while my stock carbs don't have. What's that tiny hole for? Would it affect my 81 GS1000G's carburation. I do want to keep my bike stock and will transfer the main and pilot jets over along with other appropriate carb components.

carbhole.jpg


Also, two screws bolting the carb tie rail (bracket) to a carb are stripped 1/3 the length of the thread. Actually, the bad 1/3 contains the aluminum from the threaded hole of the stripped carb casing.

stripped.jpg


In a little while, I will cut off the bad 1/3 of the 2 bad screws, apply Locktite and use only 2/3 of the good thread to bolt the tie bracket back to the carb.

screw.jpg


I hope it works.

Please advise.

Thanks.
 
That's what I would do. Is the hole you are referring to next to your slide port in the top diaphragm section of the carb?
 
No. The tiny hole I was referring to is pointed by the red arrow. It is all the way down at the bottom of the slide tunnel and about 1/2" or less from the larger hole where the needle jet used to seat in. None of my stock carbs has such a hole. According to the seller, these carbs were pulled from an 82 or 83 GS1100GL or GK.


carbhole1.jpg
I I am still curious if this hole may affect my carburation with my stock main and pilot jets transferred over.

My family obligation took me away from my garage. I hope to get up early tommorrow and start work.

Thanks very much for quick reply.
 
That is a "progression hole" is a good thing, much sure it is clear.

Dink
 
He already bought a replacement carb. I'd say just add it to his existing rack.
 
Following Chef?s suggestions, I reused the main and pilot jets from the original carburetors and replaced all O-rings and most other components with the O-ring and K&L kits. I tried from 1 to 3 ? turns on the air screws in ? turn increments. The bike consistently started right up even in the cold but idled roughly with backfiring intervals averaging every 40 seconds or so.

The person who worked on the carburetors before me was a butcher on steroid. He stripped 2 of the air mixture screw heads, 3 of the pilot air jets and couple of threaded aluminum holes which the tie rack bolts into.

As I was replacing the air filter, I noticed the air box had duct tape covering the right side opening and the left opening had a bad rubber seal that, had it been in good shape, would?ve provided a good seal with the metal cover. The air inlet of this black plastic housing facing the rear of the bike was also duct-taped some what. As a test, after I replaced the air filter, I taped the left side of this plastic housing but removed the duct tape covering the air inlet. All the few small round holes at the bottom of this air box remained unobstructed. Still, the bike idled roughly and misfired intermittently. Also, the engine?s RPM went up to around 2100 when warmed up.

With a fresh change of filter and 10W40 oil and the bike warmed up I raised the throttle to 4000RPM briefly and found the engine steadier and surer. Little misfiring still happened when the RPM decreased.

I cleaned the carbs with Gumout and cleared all passages. What should I do next? I do like to obtain a better air box but it?s not going to be easy. The rubber seals are going to be difficult to find. Could a poorly sealed air box cause my problems? Should I get a manometer and sync the carbs at this stage? Any suggestion?

Thanks in advance.


:shock:









 
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