GS1000G Valve Adjust info - Confirmation

[salty_monk]

Ok, I've read all the posts recently & done some searching so this is really just a confirmation....

Clymer & my owners handbook give two different ways to check the gaps (2 different positions of the lobe) which is best? I seem to remember it being the Suzuki handbook way, can't find the post that told me that right now....

Can someone post up that link to the Snap-On feeler gauges that went down to the right size I can't find that either.

Aside from the feeler gauges & the tappet tool from Ron Ayers is there anything else I might need? I already have a digital vernier.

What's best for pulling the shims out? My toolkit is pretty basic here & I'd like to be prepared as I don't want to be off the road too long....

I intend to get a cam cover gasket & breather gasket from Real gaskets as I've read good things. Anyone know the part numbers I need?

Lastly anyone got any spare shims around that I can have/buy/borrow to make the job easier & then buy/replace after I've done the job? Again I want to keep time off the road to a minimum.

Thanks for all the help as ever....

Dan :-D

 

[swhomrig]

I used a small pair of tweezers to get my shims out. The first was one was a little tricky but after I got the hang of it they came out quite easy. Also, I had a bit of trouble with the tappet tool I got from MotionPro. For some reason, it was really stubborn on the first tappet I tried but then worked like magic on the others. If you're having trouble on one of them, I would recommend trying the others rather than struggling a lot. Good luck!

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Engine has to be cold... DO you have a trailer??? Bring it up to Pomona I have tools & shims

 

[bwringer]

Either position shown in the manual will be fine -- neither is "best".

You mean you're in SoCal, and you can't find a local independent motorcycle shop that sells shims? What's the world coming to?

Not many (none I've ever found, anyway) Suzuki dealers stock the shims, but many independent shops do. Most will just sell them outright, but a few might trade. Call around.

Any auto parts store will have a metric feeler gauge set that goes down to .04mm. This is good enough -- if the .04mm won't go in, swap in the next smallest shim and measure again. If the clearance comes out to .08mm, you know it was exactly .03 to begin with, but .08 is also fine. If it comes out between .04 and .08mm, you know it was a bit less than .03 to begin with and you're still fine. If it still comes out less than .04mm, then you'll need to swap in an even smaller shim anyway.

This question comes up a lot, but you DON'T need a .03mm feeler gauge -- stop stressing! I have a piece of .001 inch shim stock, which is .0254mm. Even though it's titanium, it's pretty much completely useless because it's so weak and thin. I've never been able to use it. Surface tension just sticks it to the oil and folds it up.

The following point is mentioned in the manual, but I'll repeat it because it's important but a common mistake: DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE WITH ANY SHIMS REMOVED. It's a great way to tear up your cam lobes. If you don't have any extra shims, measure them one at a time, or at least the ones that need to be changed, and PUT THEM BACK.

Go buy new shims in the sizes you need plus the next smaller sizes if you can afford a few extra bucks. Clearances tend to decrease, so you might as well be ready and save a trip next time. If you have any zero clearance valves, you'll want a few different size shims on hand anyway -- most of the time, the next smallest shim will do the trick, but sometimes if it's really been neglected you'll need to go smaller yet.

 

[mortation]

I don't know how the Ron Ayer tool is but I got this one off eBay and it is a complete waste of metal POS!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=330085001569&rd=1&rd=1

Just a warning. Next time I will be looking for an OEM Suzuki one only.

I got shims from:

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/valve_shims.htm

Don't have em yet so I can't say they are 100% the right ones

I followed the clymer manual and aside from the tool not fitting right and doing its job it worked ok. I too used tweezers to pull the shims out and a barrage of curses to coax them along.

For feelers I just ran down to VIP (The auto store, not the porn store) and grabbed some that went down to .034. Which is close enough to be within specs.

if my shims come in today I will have some spare 2.6, 2.55, and 2.50.

I went for OEM gaskets because no one answered my email from real gaskets

 

[Norseman]

Snap-on Feeler Gauge

Snap-on Feeler Gauge

Salty Monk,

Here's the link to the snap-on feeler gauge set I purchased. It's only $5.35 plus 6% sales tax (Michigan), and free shipping. I got it in the mail within 3 days, and seems like it's good quality. It goes down to .001 (.03mm). Hope this helps.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1122&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Norseman

 

[waterman]

I have found that it is easy to remove shims if you first rotate or spin the "bucket" that the shim sits in so the groove is exposed. Then I insert a small pocket screwdriver (flat blade) in groove to pry shim up. It usually pops up and I can use tweezers or needle nose pliers to grasp shim. Make sure that screwdriver has not been magnetized, you don't want to magnetize shims. After changing shims, recheck your clearance to be sure shim markings are accurate. One question I always have is to oil shim upon insertion since they are coated when I remove them. I usually do and then cycle cams to ensure that excess oil is displaced before measuring again. Take time and call to see if nearby dealer might exchange shims with you; I haven't paid for shims yet on 3 bikes.

 

[salty_monk]

Engine has to be cold... DO you have a trailer??? Bring it up to Pomona I have tools & shims

Unfortunately not, I have a van (Chevy Astro) but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't go in the back, too tall

How long is cold? Really appreciate the offer! Maybe I could ride up & get the wife to follow me & leave over night, come back & play the next day? That might work.....

So I checked my Owners manual again... no valve instructions in there! Weird, I don't know where I read that then! Clymer says to do it with the Lobe vertical (i.e. pointy bit up if I read it correctly), does that method work ok?

Am I liable to need to synch the carbs after doing this as that's another tool I don't have I know they were cleaned out, main jets changed (for 1.21 I think) & the slides drilled for faster closing (or at least that's what the receipt says) & synched but I don't know what state the valve adjust was in when it was done.

I'm probably going to be putting the progressive springs in the front end sometime soon, valves will be 2nd on the list unless you really are a glutton for punishment SqDancerLynn :lol:

Dan

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

That could work If you want I have the complete mechanics shim set. So no ordering & can lock bike inside.
To save time You need a new gasket & end seals. Coat the gasket with Oil so you can reuse it. . Go ahead & take it apart & check the clearances If you are lucky they may not even be out of adjustment.

 

[J_C]

Marina Suzuki sold/traded me shims for my old GS500... Are they the same size? I did the valve check on the 2000 GS500 and the 80 GS1100. Obviously the 1100 is different since it doesnt use shims. But on the 500 I used a magnetic pick up tool to get them out.

 

[salty_monk]

Thanks JC, never been in there I'll have to give them a call. They're in striking distance definitely.

I'll get the forks done first & then either have a bash myself or tap up SqDancerLynn one weekend.

As a start I'll get some gaskets from Real Gasket or is aftermarket / OEM ok? Just as good & cheaper? Cam Cover, Breather & end caps.

We should set up a SO CAL ride one weekend, even 50 miles to SqDancerLynn is not far......

Thanks again,

Dan

 

[salty_monk]

Looking at http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm#suzuki it would seem I need either RG-GS1000 or RG-GS2000.

Looking at this it seems to be the simpler GS1000 http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandi..._id~989752.asp

Can anyone confirm?

Also this RG-SBC-1 SUZUKI BREATHER COVER GASKET
79/82 GS550 OEM# 11177-47001 looks closest from the pictures, not sure about the sizing, the 850 one seems to have a square hole in the centre which definitely doesn't match. Anyone know if it's the right size?
If not I guess I'll buy one for $7.50 & see... not a big risk, more a time thing.

Dan :smile:
____________

 

[chiphead]

Don't use magnetized devices to manipulate the shims. This was factory advice. If the shim becomes even slightly magnetized, metal particles will like to stick to it. Bad news.

 

[salty_monk]

Sure, I have tweezers at the ready..

Anyone have any clues on the gaskets?

Cheers,

Dan

 

[Nessism]

OEM gasket is fine of course. If your rubber half moon pieces are hard as a rock you might want to replace them as well.

When you adjust the valves you want to follow the factory procedure - not just set the lobe pointing up. If you follow the proper procedure the adjacent valve to the one you are adjusting will be in the proper position so it will not skew the cam within the journal clearance which will effect the clearance on the valve you are checking.

 

[Steve]

Thanks, Chiphead. \\/

I had always heard not to use a magnet to get them out, but had never heard WHY. 8-[


.

 

[salty_monk]

Aha Nessism, this is what I remember reading before, does anyone have the factory instructions to hand? My Clymer just talks about rotating them till the lobe is straight up...

Maybe I'll get some of the half moons when I get some shims from the Suzuki place in the Marina. By that stage I'll have had a look at them.

Cheers,

Dan

 

[Nessism]

 

[Nessism]

 

[salty_monk]

Great, this is exactly what I needed, thanks very much!

Dan