GS1100e new engine noise has me rattled

[Guest]

...or maybe it's more of a clattering a whirring, clattering sound clutch in or out. I'm trying to figure it out, worked cam tensioner back slightly, no change. Might pull valve cover to check cams, rockers, but thought I'd run it by you all before tearing down. What's a loose starter clutch sound like? Starter still works fine. I noticed this some time after missed shift overrev, like maybe collapsed a piston skirt? It seems to be getting worse every time I ride. I'll try and post a video with audio...

 

[Guest]

Here's the video, sounds worse on video than it really does...

 

[steve murdoch]

Does the sound change when you pull the clutch lever in?
MIGHT be a clutch issue, thinking the missed shift was a symptom?

 

[Guest]

Fired Suzi up again today to further scope out the noise, it seems to be coming from low on the engine, most prominent when you're ear is under the bike. Wonder if I might've chipped a tranny tooth or something. It's fairly low frequency like 4-5 beats per second at idle so not a piston or rod noise, and prolly not cam/rocker...hmmm...about time for an oil change, so think I'll drop the oil and have a look.

 

[Guest]

Fired Suzi up again today to further scope out the noise, it seems to be coming from low on the engine, most prominent when your ear is under the bike. Wonder if I might've chipped a tranny tooth or something. It's fairly low frequency like 4-5 beats per second at idle so not a piston or rod noise, and prolly not cam/rocker...hmmm...

 

[Carter Turk]

If your stator cover & clutch cover gaskets can be saved or removed carefully, it might worth taking a look inside or buy them in advance.

The starter clutch could still work with 1 hex bolt & 1-2 broken/snapped ones, rattling around trapped by the backside of the rotor.

Hard to tell sometimes, because the the end of the bolts can still be seen sticking thru the rotor, while the heads of the bolt are snapped off. Or they could be just loose.

Not sure if you have the rotor puller in your quiver thou.

The rotor nut could have backed off causing the rotor to wobble on the taper.

The clutch nut could be loose, causing the clutch basket to wobble.

All speculations on my part, but can be checked w/o removing the oil, thou you'd have to remove the bar end mirrors to lean the bike on the handlebar w/handlebar cocked to one side or the other

against a bench or wall.

 

[Guest]

If your stator cover & clutch cover gaskets can be saved or removed carefully, it might worth taking a look inside or buy them in advance.

The starter clutch could still work with 1 hex bolt & 1-2 broken/snapped ones, rattling around trapped by the backside of the rotor.

Hard to tell sometimes, because the the end of the bolts can still be seen sticking thru the rotor, while the heads of the bolt are snapped off. Or they could be just loose.

Not sure if you have the rotor puller in your quiver thou.

The rotor nut could have backed off causing the rotor to wobble on the taper.

The clutch nut could be loose, causing the clutch basket to wobble.

All speculations on my part, but can be checked w/o removing the oil, thou you'd have to remove the bar end mirrors to lean the bike on the handlebar w/handlebar cocked to one side or the other

against a bench or wall.

Just went through this last fall with my 1100e I brought home to get running. The noise sounded terrible and I started with the clutch side to find a loose hub nut AND play in the dampner springs in the backing plate. I took care of both and still had the noise. I moved on to the starter clutch and indeed found the starter clutch loose of the flywheel. 2 of the 3 bolts were loose and 1 was broken and bouncing around behind the flywheel, I bet this is your problem as well from the noise.

 

[Guest]

The sound doesn't change with the clutch lever pulled, thanks for the input

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the comments, I'll keep ya posted!

 

[Guest]

I checked the starter clutch it had zero movement on rotor, seemed rock solid so didn't pull rotor to check further. Oil didn't have any visible contaminants, just the normal look, no chunks, chips, slivers. Moved on to the clutch, took it all apart, just normal wear, outer had some notching from the friction plates(looked like aftermarket plates, Barnetts maybe). Springs on back of outer hub were all snug, rivets holding everything tight. Clutch inner hub nut may have been not fully torqued, I removed the nut with the same light chisel I used to straighten the lock tab. I was surprised that a few moderate taps loosened the nut, didn't even have to get out my 32mm socket. Gonna fire it up tomorrow with fresh oil, and if the noise persists, guess the valve cover comes off.

 

[steve murdoch]

Thanks for the follow-up.
Fingers crossed for a quiet start-up.

 

[Guest]

Nothing of note under the Valve cover, no scoring of cam lobes or rockers, only minor valve adjustment needed on a couple valves. Rocked crank forward and back an noticed a clanking noise that might be entirely normal, gonna compare it to my son's '82 GS1100e...

 

[Guest]

Didn't ride a whole lot this past season due to the noise, prolly less than 200 miles. Gotta get to the bottom of it a new video the noise is pretty evident. Thoughts???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OnnWxEjFZs

 

[Brendan W]

Is the cam chain tensioner working properly?
If it's locked up, backing out the wheel will make no difference to the sound.

 

[Grimly]

Hearing a clank as you rock the crank back and forward isn't good.
I have an engine sitting here that clanks quite well, but it's definitely noticeable as being at firing rate on one cylinder, so it's a big end roller bearing gone. Pulling plug leads in turn seemed to narrow it to number 1, iirc.

Yours doesn't sound quite like that, might be a main bearing.

 

[Guest]

When I turn back the tensioner wheel a bit, I can hear cam chain noise develop, and it tensions right back up when I release the wheel. I have a solid locking tensioner but haven't installed it don't think I need to.

 

[Carter Turk]

You mentioned the starter clutch was tight, but doesn't mean 1-2 bolts aren't broken or loose. It's about $40 for the rotor puller & if planning on owning a 1100 for any length of time is a relatively inexpensive tool to have in your quiver.

How are the exhaust manifold gaskets?

On a sadder note, one of my 1150/1229 engines had a terrible rattle, it turned out to be #3 connecting rod on the big end.
Have yet to deal with it as it's a welded Falicon Super Crank. Will have to call John Pearson in Ohio again, as he already replaced the left end 5 years back.

 

[salty_monk]

When you had the nut off the clutch did you pull the basket & check the back? Wondering if you may have a broken spring back there or one that's coming loose....

 

[Guest]

Sorry for the slow reply, yeah I had the clutch off and all springs on the basket were snug. Gonna pull down the engine bit by bit till I find the source, starting with the alternator/starter clutch...It'd be cool if someone had an archive of different engine failure sounds...

 

[Guest]

I got this bike rather cheap because it had cam chain noise, turned out someone had locked down the auto tensioner rather than leaving the locking bolt/nut backed off so the auto tensioner would work. Much diff noise than what I'm dealing with, tho.