GS1100E oil pan replacement

[Guest]

Just finished my oil change and noticed when I pulled the drain plug that some of what appears to be a heli-coil came out on the thread of the drain plug. I put the plug back in and it did tighten up snug but I did not crank it down (no leaks so far.) My question is, can the oil pan be replaced without removing the motor, and if so, what is the trick (if any) to do it safely and easily. Thanks in advance.

 

[blowerbike]

i'm sure you pulled the aluminum threads as a heli coil is stainless and the entire insert would have came out.
yes you can pull the pan in the frame.
you can also install a heli coil with the pan on.
just grease up the tap...same insert as an 8 valve spark plug...14mm

 

[JTGS850GL]

You may have to drop the exhaust to remove the pan but, as stated by blowerbike, you don't have to pull the motor. I'd go with the heli-coil route first. Just be cautious of metal fragments and flush the pan before you start the bike.

 

[geol]

The drain plug is M14 with 1.5 pitch, If the thread is bad, a good way to fix without using an insert is to buy an M15 tap and M15 drain plug kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Sealey-Drain-Plug-Thread-Repair/dp/B00DTEM2C8

 

[Guest]

The drain plug itself has good thread, most of the thread in the oil pan are gone. Since this would be the second heli-coil, I just wonder if replacing the pan might be a better long term solution. I have to decide soon, as I would like to do something to solve the issue at the next oil change. How many times can one put a heli-coil in the same hole before there is a problem, if that is even a concern.

 

[blowerbike]

are you sure it had an insert already?

 

[Guest]

are you sure it had an insert already?

Now you make me question what I thought I saw. It appeared the coiled piece that came out on the drain plug was steel but since I didn't check it with a magnet I cannot be sure. I also cannot get my head under the bike to look into the drain hole to see what is what. Probably a small mirror would work but I left my compact at the girlfriends house! The answer to your question is no, I am not sure.

 

[zuzu]

Put your phone under the pan and take a picture. That should show you how the drain hole looks.

 

[geol]

If you decide on another insert, Heli-coil is the LEAST reliable. Use a solid insert, like a Timesert using anaerobic thread locker on the newly cut thread. They do make thread repair kits in the proper size for most any oil pan.

 

[blowerbike]

normally a failed heli coil will damage the thread of what is threaded into it...
a lot of people mistake pulled aluminum threads for a failed a heli coil.

 

[Guest]

I see now that I was incorrect. The little coil that came out is indeed aluminum, and it does look like there has never been any kind of heli-coil put in the drain hole. My local auto parts store had a solid insert kit at 14mm size, I bought it ($30) and now when I do the next oil change I will attempt to install this insert. Since Miss Bugly is my daily rider the oil change will be coming up in less than a week. I will post an update and pictures when I get into the repair. Thanks for all the advice, many brains are better than one, especially mine!

 

[JTGS850GL]

You're riding it around with the threads stripped out on the oil drain? If that bolt works loose you're in for a very bad day.

 

[Guest]

You're riding it around with the threads stripped out on the oil drain? If that bolt works loose you're in for a very bad day.

I know, luckily(?) there was enough thread left for me to tighten the drain plug but not crank it down. I have ridden about 600 miles since last oil change and have checked its tightness every day after I ride. So far my luck is holding, and believe me that at each stop light or stop sign, I look down to see if there is any oil on the ground. My GS angel has been on guard, but probably at the end of the week I will change the oil and do the insert. Your prayers are needed in this time of (possible) crisis.

 

[JTGS850GL]

Just seems silly to be waiting for your next oil change before fixing this problem on your daily driver. Risking the bike for $23 worth of oil just doesn't seem smart. IMHO

 

[Guest]

Just seems silly to be waiting for your next oil change before fixing this problem on your daily driver. Risking the bike for $23 worth of oil just doesn't seem smart. IMHO

You're right, and that is why today I am going to change the oil and do the insert before going for a ride this afternoon. Wise words that have had their effect. Thanks for the nudge to do the right thing.

 

[Guest]

Update: Got the solid insert kit, drained the oil, taped it, screwed the insert in with thread lock, seated it with the punch provided and voila! It worked perfectly. Thanks to all, again without you guys I would not be able to effect repairs efficiently and cheaply (for me.) Now, the adventure continues...

 

[Guest]

Update: Got the solid insert kit, drained the oil, taped it, screwed the insert in with thread lock, seated it with the punch provided and voila! It worked perfectly. Thanks to all, again without you guys I would not be able to effect repairs efficiently and cheaply (for me.) Now, the adventure continues...

You didn't pull the pan did ya? If you didn't you need to, why? Because when you install the steel threaded insert into the pan, on the inside it will have a small lip and won't be able to drain the oil out of the pan completely. You have to cut two notches into the insert for the oil to drain completely out.

 

[bwringer]

The drain plug is M14 with 1.5 pitch...

In case anyone is watching, this is incorrect. Drain plugs with M14 threads on a GS use 1.25mm thread pitch, same as a spark plug.

 

[Griffin]

In case anyone is watching, this is incorrect. Drain plugs with M14 threads on a GS use 1.25mm thread pitch, same as a spark plug.

It never ceases to amaze me how you remember every damn thread pitch on every GS bolt.....

 

[geol]

I screwed up. I found out I was wrong when I changed the oil on my project GS1000G this weekend. Of course, the thread came out and I measured the drain plug: M14-1.25 as has been stated. First, you can buy "oversize" drain bolts that are just a wee bit larger than stated size for MOST drain bolt sizes, such as the M14-1.50 pitch. Not the M14-1.25 pitch. The good news is that this size is the same size as our spark plugs and if anyone has repaired a spark plug thread, the same tools and inserts can be used. I work on Kawasakis mostly and they also use B8ES plugs and these are also M14-1.25 pitch. I had a Balkamp 77003223 repair kit on hand and the medium length insert is the perfect length to use on the drain thread. I put a how-to in the TIPS section I believe it was but essentially, you use the supplied tap to cut new thread. The tap is two-stage with the first stage M14-1.25 and inserting it gets the tap started. The second stage on the tap is larger diameter to accommodate the insert. NAPA sells these kits for around $40 plus you can buy spare inserts if you need to fix any spark plugs thread.

Grease up your tap as a lot of shavings will drop down. Put the insert on your drain plug and coat the plug with grease first. Then put hi-temp gasket maker RTV on the outside of the insert and wipe the hole it goes in to get as much of the oil off the new thread as possible and just screw it into place and torque. The resulting insert repair is MUCH more solid than the alloy from the factory. These are solid inserts! It took me about 1/2 hour to do the job front to back and I would recommend it if you find your drain plug thread questionable. Sorry for stating the wrong pitch initially. As has been stated, most of the thread pitch on M8 and M10 bolts on the bike are 1.25 pitch as is also the case on a Kawasaki. Not sure why.