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GS1100EZ - 40hp for $1,000?

  • Thread starter Thread starter CivilRock
  • Start date Start date
C

CivilRock

Guest
I have a bone stock motor with a V&H 4-1 street pipe.

Could I get 40 more ponies out of it for less than $1,000?

$525 1168 piston kit.
$150 75mm bore
$200 Used 36mm 1150 carbs?

Actually, what I'd like to do is go slowly. Although a pain in the A, I'd like to do bigger jugs, then ride it for a while. Then bigger carbs, then ride it a while. Then whatever is next, probably cams. repeat. Then porting?

I'd like to keep it completely a street bike. Maybe some ET racing 3 summers from now.

If you were in my shoes, what would be first?
And can get 40 more HP for under a grand?

-Kevin

20130817_184330.jpg
 
The 1166 I did for my friend runs 9.30s @ 145. It has 10-1 OLD Wisecos, Web .348 cams, porting & 38 Lectrons. With 36 RS Mikunis it made 140 at the rear wheel. This is a ride across country street motor in a dragbike. You WON'T get 140 from a 10-1, 1166, with stock carbs. Call me at 714--356-7845 if you want help or have questions. I build these all the time & know what it takes to make power. Ray.
 
but can he get this for a grand????
i say get some .340 webs and a set of 36RS carbs.
tuned right he should get near 20hp extra.
well add some timing 34/35 degree's total.
stock carbs are a choking point...don't waste your money.
 
rapidray said:
Also, you HAVE to have a welded clutch hub & crank! Ray.
Click to expand...

OK, I think this part made me stumble years ago when I contemplated hopping up this bike.

I did a little search and it appears my crank and clutch hub are not welded. I just took out my clutch basket and tried to look in at the crank to see if it is welded by chance. Can you verify this is NOT WELDED by the pictures?

I don't know if I'm even looking in the right places, and I'm not 100% sure of what a welded crank entails.

I can't see any welding done here where the light is shining inside #3:
20130825_004131.jpg


And nothing on the inside of #4:
20130825_004247.jpg


And what is a welded clutch HUB?

20130825_004532.jpg

20130825_004618.jpg


So assuming I take my crank to a machinist that knows what they're doing, how much should it cost to weld my crank and hub?

I know it makes sense to do this all at one time and just have someone do it for me. But that's giving away all the fun. I want to learn, get my hands dirty, make some mistakes, etc.

The big reason is that I can slip around $500 here and there spread out over several months. My wife will never know. If I drop $2500 all at once, I'll be out on the street... I'll have a killer bike, but no wife.

-Kevin
 
The crank in your pics don't seem to be welded. You can see a few welds on this crank to get an idea of where they are welded at.
 
Again a welded hub with a heavy backing plate and springs. A couple things to also think of might be a hardened clutch hub nut, and a manual cam chain tensioner, and if you can afford it get the transmission back cut. Just a few things I have seen fail when dragging these bikes besides the cranks and clutches. Also when shutting down the throttle abruptly can bend and sometimes break the left ends on these cranks. Since yours is an 82 I believe it has the small dia.left end making it easier to do then the 83's with the larger dia.
 
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Having the clutch basket and crankshaft welded is very good advice. One other thing you should get that's not very expensive is a Dyna RPM limiter. The bike does not have one stock and since you'll be riding it hard, a very worthwhile investment.
 
CivilRock said:
OK, I think this part made me stumble years ago when I contemplated hopping up this bike.

I did a little search and it appears my crank and clutch hub are not welded. I just took out my clutch basket and tried to look in at the crank to see if it is welded by chance. Can you verify this is NOT WELDED by the pictures?

I don't know if I'm even looking in the right places, and I'm not 100% sure of what a welded crank entails.

I can't see any welding done here where the light is shining inside #3:
20130825_004131.jpg


And nothing on the inside of #4:
20130825_004247.jpg


And what is a welded clutch HUB?

20130825_004532.jpg

20130825_004618.jpg


So assuming I take my crank to a machinist that knows what they're doing, how much should it cost to weld my crank and hub?

I know it makes sense to do this all at one time and just have someone do it for me. But that's giving away all the fun. I want to learn, get my hands dirty, make some mistakes, etc.

The big reason is that I can slip around $500 here and there spread out over several months. My wife will never know. If I drop $2500 all at once, I'll be out on the street... I'll have a killer bike, but no wife.

-Kevin
Click to expand...

Your crank is NOT welded & you have a factory stock clutch basket. You need to send the crank to someone that KNOWS what they are doing. Only 3 places in this country I will send a roller bearing crank to: Pearson Racing in Ohio, Gardner Racing in Maine or Bob Mosher at Accurate Crankshafts in Florida. NO WAY will I ever let Falicon touch another of my cranks!!! I build clutch hubs & can turn yours into a heavy duty. Welding the crank & building the clutch hub are the FIRST 2 things you HAVE to do to make your motor live a long, happy life, capable of 180-200 hp! Ray.
 
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What I have found in searches on this site is that eng. #'s S110X-146884 & lower are not welded & eng. #'s S110X-146889 & higher are welded, no idea of the in between #'s. Not reporting FACTS here, just repeating what I have found out.
 
rule of thumb...
silver is small taper and not welded.
black is large taper and welded.
83 kat1100 is exempt from the above as far as taper size.
to many people rely on information in print/text/internet ect..
 
I have an 83 kat 1100 motor, what should I look for on it ? Eng # is S110X-158783. Where are you talking about seeing the black & silver also
 
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rapidray said:
Your crank is NOT welded & you have a factory stock clutch basket. You need to send the crank to someone that KNOWS what they are doing. Only 3 places in this country I will send a roller bearing crank to: Pearson Racing in Ohio, Gardner Racing in Maine or Bob Mosher at Accurate Crankshafts in Florida. NO WAY will I ever let Falicon touch another of my cranks!!! I build clutch hubs & can turn yours into a heavy duty. Welding the crank & building the clutch hub are the FIRST 2 things you HAVE to do to make your motor live a long, happy life, capable of 180-200 hp! Ray.
Click to expand...


i would not even think of putting 180-200 hp though a helical cut gear it spends all its time side loading the clutch and crank
180-200 hp = STRAIGHT CUT GEARS
then you might get a long happy life

ozman
 
Katarat said:
I have an 83 kat 1100 motor, what should I look for on it ? Eng # is S110X-158783. Where are you talking about seeing the black & silver also
Click to expand...

82 kat motor is silver as is 80-82 E model's.
83 kat motor is black as is 83 E/ES model's.
83 kat motor has the small taper crank and a 750 size rotor and stator.
i don't pay a lot of attention to what i see in print/type/text/gossip ect..
 
ozman said:
i would not even think of putting 180-200 hp though a helical cut gear it spends all its time side loading the clutch and crank
180-200 hp = STRAIGHT CUT GEARS
then you might get a long happy life

ozman
Click to expand...

i have made over 200 turbo HP...mid 8's with helical gears but the basket needed inspected weekly(drag bike).
on one of those inspections i found 2 of the 3 welds broken.
straight cuts after that.
 
On a street tire bike a helical geared motor is fine up to about 180 HP. Put a slick on it & its:) a WHOLE different story! My point was that a WELDED stock crank will handle the power. This thread started with him wanting 140-150 HP & that's what I was referring to. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
On a street tire bike a helical geared motor is fine up to about 180 HP. Put a slick on it & its:) a WHOLE different story! My point was that a WELDED stock crank will handle the power. This thread started with him wanting 140-150 HP & that's what I was referring to. Ray.
Click to expand...


your having another bout of isclb are you ray

ozman
 
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