-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
GS1150 ES Makeover Project
- Thread starter londonboards
- Start date
I got quite good at swapping the 850 lumps in and out single-handed, but there was always a bit where a second pair of hands was invaluable. One of my friends simply laid his bike over and lifted the bike off the engine, leaving it on the floor - reversing that to install it.
Grimly - I tried that once:
Well, from what I saw of my mate doing it, it's considerably easier if you take all the bolts out before laying it down. He was quite accomplished at it, I must admit, and it's a technique I never got around to trying, but next time I'm doing one on my todd, I'll do it that way.
Even better, for a gearbox strip on a GS650G, was a top-down strip with the engine still in the frame - head, barrels, top engine case all come off and leave the gearbox internals exposed for replacement.
I have to take the '79 lump apart soon, so either of the above techniques will be in use.
Even better, for a gearbox strip on a GS650G, was a top-down strip with the engine still in the frame - head, barrels, top engine case all come off and leave the gearbox internals exposed for replacement.
I have to take the '79 lump apart soon, so either of the above techniques will be in use.
Here's a quick recap as to where I am with this project.
I bought this bike blind on eBay and it turned out that the motor was shot. At some stage it had had a clutch explosion and whilst all the broken parts had been replaced, there was still this little lot spinning around inside:
This had caused some major damage. At least one of the main bearings on the crank was shot and the camshafts and the saddles in which they sit in the head were shot. So the crank and the head were toast.
I found another motor in Holland and after doing a little investigation into it, I decided to install it and see what it was like. So far it is in the frame but I need to work on wiring it up and putting the carbs on to see how it fares.
In the meantime, I took the old engine apart completely, ditched the head and sent the crank shaft away to be fixed. I found a local guy (only 60 miles from me) who has been reconditioning cranks (and particularly GS1150 / GSX1100 cranks) for the last 30 years. This is his workshop:
This is the crankshaft balancing kit:
There are crankshafts all over the place:
So now I have the engine that is in the frame and another engine that I will rebuild. The rebuild one will be tip top, as it will have a brilliant crank (I think he will end up replacing all the bearings and rods and balancing it and welding it back up), I have 3 heads to choose from and 5 clutches. I will replace all the seals and the drive shaft bearings and even the other transmission bearings if there is the slightest doubt about them. I should end up with a great engine which I will then put into the frame and then work on the one that is in the frame.
So my winter projects will be to rebuild the old engine with the new crank, determine the condition of the new motor (by getting it fired up) and continue to restore my Dad's GS1100G (see my signature).
I think I should get the bed put in the garage first thing tomorrow.
Greetings
I bought this bike blind on eBay and it turned out that the motor was shot. At some stage it had had a clutch explosion and whilst all the broken parts had been replaced, there was still this little lot spinning around inside:
This had caused some major damage. At least one of the main bearings on the crank was shot and the camshafts and the saddles in which they sit in the head were shot. So the crank and the head were toast.
I found another motor in Holland and after doing a little investigation into it, I decided to install it and see what it was like. So far it is in the frame but I need to work on wiring it up and putting the carbs on to see how it fares.
In the meantime, I took the old engine apart completely, ditched the head and sent the crank shaft away to be fixed. I found a local guy (only 60 miles from me) who has been reconditioning cranks (and particularly GS1150 / GSX1100 cranks) for the last 30 years. This is his workshop:
This is the crankshaft balancing kit:
There are crankshafts all over the place:
So now I have the engine that is in the frame and another engine that I will rebuild. The rebuild one will be tip top, as it will have a brilliant crank (I think he will end up replacing all the bearings and rods and balancing it and welding it back up), I have 3 heads to choose from and 5 clutches. I will replace all the seals and the drive shaft bearings and even the other transmission bearings if there is the slightest doubt about them. I should end up with a great engine which I will then put into the frame and then work on the one that is in the frame.
So my winter projects will be to rebuild the old engine with the new crank, determine the condition of the new motor (by getting it fired up) and continue to restore my Dad's GS1100G (see my signature).
I think I should get the bed put in the garage first thing tomorrow.
Greetings
Last edited:
I love the old school "unsanitized" shop with parts, etc floating around....I could only imagine that there's some good stories there after 30 years. Richard, you are one busy fellow. I hope the 1150 project finally turns up some good luck. Sound like with the lengths you're going its an inevitably.
dorkburger - yes thanks. I will get there in the end.
I wanted to ask the guy if he would spend a day with me and tell me some stories. I wanted to pick up every engine piece and ask it's history and how it came to be in his shop (and obviously some of them abandoned in his shop too). Really interesting guy (just like some of the guys on this Forum who could tell some great drag racing stories) - he also was into hydroplanes with 2 stroke engines. This was him in the 1980s:
This is some Busa crank work he has done:
and if you ever wanted to know how a crank was balanced. Here is a GT750 crank being done:
Greetings
I wanted to ask the guy if he would spend a day with me and tell me some stories. I wanted to pick up every engine piece and ask it's history and how it came to be in his shop (and obviously some of them abandoned in his shop too). Really interesting guy (just like some of the guys on this Forum who could tell some great drag racing stories) - he also was into hydroplanes with 2 stroke engines. This was him in the 1980s:
This is some Busa crank work he has done:
and if you ever wanted to know how a crank was balanced. Here is a GT750 crank being done:
Greetings
Last edited:
S
ShadowFocus603
Guest
I believe the idea behind them is that a polished crank is less likely to hold onto oil film as it spins thereby minimizing parasitic losses. Considering that was a Busa crank and the power levels those crazy b*stards go for I can't imagine it'd amount to more than 1-2 hp but I guess in some circles that's everything.
I'm guessing it reduces drag from oil and air resistance.
But what the heck - it's beautiful.
But what the heck - it's beautiful.
If I recall from my car enthusiast days, when they lighten the crank and bevel the counterweights, its called knife edging, which along with lightening it, makes it more "aerodynamic" as it spins.
G
GSX1000E
Guest
This is the bottom end of one of my go fast rockets. Besides the aerodynamic aspect, knife edging is also to shed any motor oil that might land on the throws that makes it past the windage tray/crank scraper keeping the crank in balance
and the oil where it needs to be.
O
one_civic
Guest
very cool vids 
Two Jobs at Once
Two Jobs at Once
I am putting in my "new" engine and at the same time working on the old "messed up" engine that I took out and stripped.
I sent the crank away to a crank man:
So the crank is away being "fixed" and I am moving on with cleaning up the crankcases and I've ordered up all the new seals, pistons pins and O rings I need for the rebuild.
I am also tapping each bolt hole. Some of them were gunked up. I don't know if they were using any Locktite substances but they are all squeeky clean now. I'm also thinking of getting some APE crankcase bolts. These cases already have APE cylinder studs but I noticed when I took it apart that the journals that hold the bearings had strange markings on them. I looked it up and it seems that this type of marking on the bearing holders is indicative of movement of the bearing in the holder. Jumping up and down causes it. See the pitting on the right hand side one near the bottom. The standard bolts can stretch and so some high tensile substitutes should put paid to that.
I love living vitually next door (they are about 500 metres away) from Robinsons Suzuki. They can get all these lovely parts in no time.
Two Jobs at Once
I am putting in my "new" engine and at the same time working on the old "messed up" engine that I took out and stripped.
I sent the crank away to a crank man:
So the crank is away being "fixed" and I am moving on with cleaning up the crankcases and I've ordered up all the new seals, pistons pins and O rings I need for the rebuild.
I am also tapping each bolt hole. Some of them were gunked up. I don't know if they were using any Locktite substances but they are all squeeky clean now. I'm also thinking of getting some APE crankcase bolts. These cases already have APE cylinder studs but I noticed when I took it apart that the journals that hold the bearings had strange markings on them. I looked it up and it seems that this type of marking on the bearing holders is indicative of movement of the bearing in the holder. Jumping up and down causes it. See the pitting on the right hand side one near the bottom. The standard bolts can stretch and so some high tensile substitutes should put paid to that.
I love living vitually next door (they are about 500 metres away) from Robinsons Suzuki. They can get all these lovely parts in no time.
Last edited:
nvr2old
Forum Sage
I just read this thread from start to finish, and I gotta say..you are incredibly dedicated to this project. Very few blogs have made me feel like I was standing right there next to you as you've experienced the trials and tribulations of getting this old girl dancing again. The videos and the pics have been excellent. I continue to look forward to your updates and wish you the best of luck getting it back on the road again.
I completely agree. You have done your project-and this forum a service through your attention to detail and the quality of your descriptions in words and photos. Cheers.
I'm also thinking of getting some APE crankcase bolts. These cases already have APE cylinder studs but I noticed when I took it apart that the journals that hold the bearings had strange markings on them. I looked it up and it seems that this type of marking on the bearing holders is indicative of movement of the bearing in the holder. Jumping up and down causes it. See the pitting on the right hand side one near the bottom. The standard bolts can stretch and so some high tensile substitutes should put paid to that.
My second 1000S had/has similar marks on the cases (and bearings). Was told it's somewhat common and nothing to be overly concern about. When putting the engine together I used Loctite bearing & stud setting compound in the saddles. No clue if this had a positive affect, but the engine runs well and no funny noises.
My second 1000S had/has similar marks on the cases (and bearings). Was told it's somewhat common and nothing to be overly concern about. When putting the engine together I used Loctite bearing & stud setting compound in the saddles. No clue if this had a positive affect, but the engine runs well and no funny noises.
you did right...
i always used red loctite and it would fill in the imperfections from the crank shaking(cases pushing a part).
when i dissembled the engine later it was there and hard as a rock.
oh,
main studs stop this for the most part