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SILENTxIRIE
Guest
I have found an offer on craigslist for 1981 gs650 carbs with stage 3 dyno jets and pods, I am wondering if they would fit on my 81 gs550. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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Sure, but main jet would likely be too big- what's your current setup, pods? non stock exhaust? do you like experimenting?
What's wrong with your current carbs?
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SILENTxIRIE
Guest
my current set up is stock airbox with a 4 to 1 exhaust but it deosnt want to idle, I found a guy on craigslist selling the 650 carbs with pods already jetted so I figured id switch them out and Id be good to go.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Carbs with pods that are "already jetted" are really suspect.
You need to know WHAT they are jetted for and what jets you will need.
The jetting for the 650 will be a bit different than your 550.
At least the carbs will be the proper carbs, whether the jetting is correct or not.
How long have you had your bike?
Has it ever idled for you?
Have you tried cleaning the carbs and replacing all the o-rings?
That is the most-likely cause of your idle issues, no need to spend a bunch of money for carbs.
.
You need to know WHAT they are jetted for and what jets you will need.
The jetting for the 650 will be a bit different than your 550.
At least the carbs will be the proper carbs, whether the jetting is correct or not.
How long have you had your bike?
Has it ever idled for you?
Have you tried cleaning the carbs and replacing all the o-rings?
That is the most-likely cause of your idle issues, no need to spend a bunch of money for carbs.
.
B
BassCliff
Guest
Greetings and Salutations!!
Greetings and Salutations!!
Hi Mr. SILENTxIRIE,
Yes, proper maintenance is the key to a safe and reliable 30 year old motorcycle. It all starts with properly cleaned carbs, valve adjustment, and properly serviced electrical/charging system. Details below in your S.W.A.G.
If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, diagrams, "how-to" guides, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.
Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.
I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...
Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Greetings and Salutations!!
Hi Mr. SILENTxIRIE,
Yes, proper maintenance is the key to a safe and reliable 30 year old motorcycle. It all starts with properly cleaned carbs, valve adjustment, and properly serviced electrical/charging system. Details below in your S.W.A.G.
If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, diagrams, "how-to" guides, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.
Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.
I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...
Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Like others have said, it will be less hassle to deal with your current carbs. Problem idle is very common with dirty carbs the #1 suspect. Head to the info library in Basscliff's link.
If this bike is new to you, and you want to enjoy it, maintenance is calling!
If this bike is new to you, and you want to enjoy it, maintenance is calling!
S
SILENTxIRIE
Guest
Thanks for the welcome, I am a previous gs450 owner and know the ups and downs of maintenance and getting a bike to run properly but I am at a loss to this one, Ive cleaned the carbs thoroughly and I have no intake leaks but it still wont idle. Im assuming I might have to bump up jet sizes to accommodate the 4 into 1 exhaust. What do you guys think?
T
Toasty
Guest
From what I've heard from people here is that just a 4-1 shouldn't require additional jetting... What is your bike doing at idle? When you cleaned the carbs, did you take them apart and soak the parts in carb dip for at least 24 hours, then use new viton o-rings? You will probably have to adjust the idle air screws too. Are the valves in spec? Is the petcock filter clean? Are you running an inline fuel filter?
What kind of air filter are you using btw?
What kind of air filter are you using btw?
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SILENTxIRIE
Guest
I entirely stripped and dipped them, new gasket and viton o-rings. Valves are to specs, clean petcock, no inline filter. Don't remember what air filter, Ill check tomorrow. I got it to idle today and stay on by adjusting the idle air screws to 4 turns out but it runs sluggish, very bad at 40 mph+
W
wegs426
Guest
I called the dynojet jet technician today in regards to my setup.
From the phone call the 650 stage 3 kit comes with 2 different main jets and no pilot jets (says air screws can be backed out enough). It does however include a spacer and new needle, plugs for the main air corrector, and a drill for enlarging the slide air hole.
The main jets are their part numbers: dj160 and dj155. The large one is to be used with 4-1 and the smaller one without.
He said the dj160 is about equivalent to a mikuni 155. To me this seems really high (18 sizes larger than the stock 110) even for open 4-1 with pods.
It will definitely be to much for a 550. 550's have a 92.5 stock main jet.
If those are the only carbs you can find you could probably make them work with pods, and a pipe by sizing to a 107.5-115 main jet depending on how restrictive your muffler is. You will probably have to move the needle down a couple of spaces as well as turning in the air screws (you probably won't need a smaller pilot jet as the 650 is only one size larger than the 550). Expect to do some testing to fine tune it.
From the phone call the 650 stage 3 kit comes with 2 different main jets and no pilot jets (says air screws can be backed out enough). It does however include a spacer and new needle, plugs for the main air corrector, and a drill for enlarging the slide air hole.
The main jets are their part numbers: dj160 and dj155. The large one is to be used with 4-1 and the smaller one without.
He said the dj160 is about equivalent to a mikuni 155. To me this seems really high (18 sizes larger than the stock 110) even for open 4-1 with pods.
It will definitely be to much for a 550. 550's have a 92.5 stock main jet.
If those are the only carbs you can find you could probably make them work with pods, and a pipe by sizing to a 107.5-115 main jet depending on how restrictive your muffler is. You will probably have to move the needle down a couple of spaces as well as turning in the air screws (you probably won't need a smaller pilot jet as the 650 is only one size larger than the 550). Expect to do some testing to fine tune it.
S
SILENTxIRIE
Guest
I've ditched the 650 carbs idea, I only wanted it for the jets and pods hoping it would be an easy swap. Now I am concerned with getting my 550 to run right with the stock air box and V&H 4 to 1. I will be ordering size #95 and #97.5 jets just in case I need to go higher. Are all 4 main jets sized equally or are the #2 and #3 carb jetted higher?
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SILENTxIRIE
Guest
And something I've noticed about this forum is that the begging of a thread sometimes changes from the first page to the last, is this normal of the forum or should I be getting a new computer?
B
BassCliff
Guest
Hi,
You'll find a chart with most of the stock carb specs on my little website.
By default the forum posts show the newest on top. You can change this behavior and add more information to you profile using the "User CP" in the upper left corner of the page. Add location, signature file with bike year and model, etc.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
You'll find a chart with most of the stock carb specs on my little website.
By default the forum posts show the newest on top. You can change this behavior and add more information to you profile using the "User CP" in the upper left corner of the page. Add location, signature file with bike year and model, etc.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Jets are the same size. Honestly, I'd head to Basscliff's and review the carb cleaning stuff. You said you completely tore them down, but did you blow and poke out (carefully!) the nasty little holes in idle circuit?make sure that the pickup tube for "choke" is clear and make sure "choke" plungers are not sticking?
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SILENTxIRIE
Guest
Believe me I went through those carbs religiously. I finally got it to idle by turning the air screws to 3.5 turns and runs good now but it gargles when I let off the throttle which with I've read means its not getting enough air to burn the remaining fuel.
Steve
GS Whisperer
OK, you stripped and dipped them, but how long did you leave them in the dip? :-k
Unless the bike has been running quite nicely and you are just doing a freshening up for the sake of it, carbs need to be dipped a bit longer than the directions on the can lead you to believe. The directions say "15 to 30 minutes", but that was back when the stuff actually worked. Now, it is better to dip carbs for "15 to 30 HOURS" to get the same results.
If you did not dip them for a full day each, stop messing around and do that.
Also, having the air screws out 4 turns might be a decent setting, but that depends on the setting of the fuel screws. Where are they set?
As a general starting point, the air screws will be set about double the fuel screw setting. For a stock bike with a header, the fuel screw should be about 3/4 to 7/8 turn out, meaning that the air screws should be about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns.
Personally, I would not bother with the 95s. Depending on how much of a baffle is in the pipe (how quiet is it?), you will need to go up 2-4 sizes for the pipe. I would start with 97.5 or 100 for a quiet pipe, be ready with a 102.5 or 105 for a louder pipe.
Ii have no idea what the "begging of a thread" is, but I am going to guess like BassCliff did, and say that you need to change your preferences for thread display order. While you are in that area, why not change the maximum threads per page from the default 10 to 40 posts per page. Makes it a LOT easier to read longer threads.And something I've noticed about this forum is that the begging of a thread sometimes changes from the first page to the last, is this normal of the forum or should I be getting a new computer?
.
Assuming your carbs have been blessed clean, did you happen to see this guys write up?
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff1/images/Adjusting_Idle_Mixture_on_CV_Carbs.pdf
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SILENTxIRIE
Guest
Where is the fuel screw? Is it the idle screw that's inbetween the carbs?
S
SILENTxIRIE
Guest
Yes I've read that and it states, "Characteristics of a lean
condition are a hanging idle (slow to return to idle), high idle, idling at higher RPM as the engine warms up, and a ?racing idle? -- difficulty returning to the pre-set idle level." and "Characteristics of a rich condition
are an inability to stay at the pre-set idle level, dropping off of idle level and dying at idle." Its doing both (raising rpms and dropping at idle till it dies) but my plugs are coming out dry with white residue, and my engine is running really hot and smells like burned gas. Ive sealed my air intake with weather stripper and made sure there are no leaks. So what the hell is the issue.
I dipped the carbs for 24 hours then sprayed through every opening, making sure it comes out the other side.
condition are a hanging idle (slow to return to idle), high idle, idling at higher RPM as the engine warms up, and a ?racing idle? -- difficulty returning to the pre-set idle level." and "Characteristics of a rich condition
are an inability to stay at the pre-set idle level, dropping off of idle level and dying at idle." Its doing both (raising rpms and dropping at idle till it dies) but my plugs are coming out dry with white residue, and my engine is running really hot and smells like burned gas. Ive sealed my air intake with weather stripper and made sure there are no leaks. So what the hell is the issue.
I dipped the carbs for 24 hours then sprayed through every opening, making sure it comes out the other side.
