gs650e Stator + R/R issue

[Mrtoto]

Hello,

I recently purchased a GS650e with an electrical stator problem. I bought an original used stator. And a Chinese regulator with the right connections.

I reconnected all while keeping the original assembly and the headlight loop.

Stator, 3 Legs yellow/blue/white, green/white = 80v at 5000rpm, look fine.

R/R, 15v between Red output and - battery but when I connect the red output to the battery directly or to the original bike circuit, nothing.... Not charging.

Do you have some advice ?

Thanks

 

[Grimly]

Do you have some advice ?

Junk the junk regulator and fit an SH-775

 

[pdqford]

Hello,

R/R, 15v between Red output and - battery but when I connect the red output to the battery directly or to the original bike circuit, nothing.... Not charging.

Not sure just how you are connecting the “red output” to the battery directly, but there must be an open in that connection.
Ditto for the “original bike circuit”.
Verify both with your ohm meter.

Just for clarification, how are you determining “Not charging”?

 

[Mrtoto]

Junk the junk regulator and fit an SH-775

Thinking about that, hard to find in Europe with an affordable price.

 

[Mrtoto]

Not sure just how you are connecting the “red output” to the battery directly, but there must be an open in that connection.
Ditto for the “original bike circuit”.
Verify both with your ohm meter.

Just for clarification, how are you determining “Not charging”?

If I check the voltage of my R/R output (Red wire and - battery -> 15V
When I'm connecting the R/R to the battery red wire directly to +, it's show me only 12.5v at the battery, Same if I connect like the original bike circuit.

How you check an open connection?

Thanks for your reply

 

[650Skull]

Welcome Mrtoto, not many 650E's on here. What year is the E,

I bought one recently and made a thread with links to all my site threads relating to issues so I don't loose them.

Links in post#2

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...ean-up-repairs-parts-supplies-and-information


Recently done my Stator and R/R. Seperate thread in the link I posted, the thread has a lot of discussion about different R/R, series type and why even some of the newer shunt types are less favorable.

Post some pics, we all love pics.

 

[pdqford]

If I check the voltage of my R/R output (Red wire and - battery -> 15V
When I'm connecting the R/R to the battery red wire directly to +, it's show me only 12.5v at the battery, Same if I connect like the original bike circuit.

How you check an open connection?

Thanks for your reply

How I would check the original bike circuit, I’d disconnect the red wire from the R/R and disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery.
With your meter on resistance (ohms) scale,
Place the red probe of you meter on the red wire where it was connected to the R/R.
Place the black probe of your meter on the battery cable you disconnected from the battery positive post.

If the wire between your two meter probes is “open”,
your meter will read OL ( Over Limit or infinite resistance) because the red wire is “open” some where between where it connects to the R/R and where it connects to the positive battery post.

If the wire between your meter probes is “not open”,
your meter should read very low resistance, maybe an ohm or two.

Just because the wire is “not open”, we are not done testing that circuit,
so take your meter probe off the disconnected positive battery cable
and attach it to the battery negative post (with the negative battery cable still connected to the battery.

If the red wire is someplace shorted to ground your meter will read minimal ohms.
If the red wire is not shorted to ground your meter will read OL.

 

[Nessism]

If your battery any good?

 

[Mrtoto]

Welcome Mrtoto, not many 650E's on here. What year is the E,

I bought one recently and made a thread with links to all my site threads relating to issues so I don't loose them.

Links in post#2

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...ean-up-repairs-parts-supplies-and-information


Recently done my Stator and R/R. Seperate thread in the link I posted, the thread has a lot of discussion about different R/R, series type and why even some of the newer shunt types are less favorable.

Post some pics, we all love pics.

Hello, thanks you for the warm welcome. Thanks for the link you have a very beautifull bike !

Will share some pic of my gs650e chain 1983 soon

I read all the pages, I looked a lot for a serie" type regulator, but very difficult to find in Europe, so I took a shunt type regulator, the FH020aa...

it's not ideal but it's better than a Chinese regulator.... The regulator works correctly and delivers a regulated voltage of approximately 14.5 v. Unfortunately when I connect the regulator directly (with a fuse) to the battery the voltage drops to 12.5v.

does anyone have an idea of ​​the problem?

 

[Mrtoto]

How I would check the original bike circuit, I’d disconnect the red wire from the R/R and disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery.
With your meter on resistance (ohms) scale,
Place the red probe of you meter on the red wire where it was connected to the R/R.
Place the black probe of your meter on the battery cable you disconnected from the battery positive post.

If the wire between your two meter probes is “open”,
your meter will read OL ( Over Limit or infinite resistance) because the red wire is “open” some where between where it connects to the R/R and where it connects to the positive battery post.

If the wire between your meter probes is “not open”,
your meter should read very low resistance, maybe an ohm or two.

Just because the wire is “not open”, we are not done testing that circuit,
so take your meter probe off the disconnected positive battery cable
and attach it to the battery negative post (with the negative battery cable still connected to the battery.

If the red wire is someplace shorted to ground your meter will read minimal ohms.
If the red wire is not shorted to ground your meter will read OL.

Thanks for your reply, I abandoned the idea of ​​continuing to use the original circuit of the bike, but unfortunately I have the same problem, a drop in R/R voltage if I connect the regulator to the battery.

What do you think ?

 

[Mrtoto]

If your battery any good?

12.8v bike off. Charging good with a wall charger. Will test another one. Thanks

 

[Mrtoto]

Hello,

Checked my bike ground, cleaned my contact, tried to find if my circuit is open, it's not.

R/R connected directly to the battery -> 12.5V bike running, max 12,6V with more rpm....if I disconnect from the battery the negative R/R output -> 13.5V bike idle between positive battery pole and R/R negative output.

Don't understand with my voltage drop when I connect the R/R to the battery.

 

[pdqford]

Hello,

R/R connected directly to the battery -> 12.5V bike running, max 12,6V with more rpm....if I disconnect from the battery the negative R/R output -> 13.5V bike idle between positive battery pole and R/R negative output.

Sorry, but I’m having trouble following this, but let met try by asking a few questions .

”R/R connected directly to the battery”.
Does this mean you ran a jumper wire from the R/R positive output directly to the battery positive post?
AND that you ran a jumper wire from the R/R negative wire directly to the negative battery post?

”-> 12.5V bike running, Max 12.6V with more rpm...”
What does “->” mean?
Where were your meter probes connected at this time?


”f I disconnect from the battery the negative R/R output”.
Does this mean you disconnected the R/R negative jumper wire from the battery negative post BUT you left the R/R positive jumper wire connected to the battery positive post?

“-> 13.5V bike idle between positive battery pole and R/R negative output”.
So, at this point was the R/R negative wire grounded?

What was the battery condition (voltage) before you did these tests?

 

[Mrtoto]

Thanks for your reply Jim. Sorry for my awfull english.

Sorry, but I’m having trouble following this, but let met try by asking a few questions .

”R/R connected directly to the battery”.
Does this mean you ran a jumper wire from the R/R positive output directly to the battery positive post?
AND that you ran a jumper wire from the R/R negative wire directly to the negative battery post?

Exactly, with a fuse between the battery and the R/R positive jumper wire.

”-> 12.5V bike running, Max 12.6V with more rpm...”
What does “->” mean?
Where were your meter probes connected at this time?

With the Meter probes connected to the battery, like the R/R. Bike running.

”f I disconnect from the battery the negative R/R output”.
Does this mean you disconnected the R/R negative jumper wire from the battery negative post BUT you left the R/R positive jumper wire connected to the battery positive post?

Exactly, Meter probe connected with the negative jumper and the battery positive.

“-> 13.5V bike idle between positive battery pole and R/R negative output”.
So, at this point was the R/R negative wire grounded?

No, Negative wire disconnected from the battery, only the positive wire still connected to the battery.

What was the battery condition (voltage) before you did these tests?

Before the test 12.8v

R/R deliver 14.5v AT 5000rpm, but only when the negative R/R output is disconnected from the battery. When I connect the negative output of the R/R to the battery my voltage drop from +14v to 12.6V-12.8v AT 5000rpm.

 

[Nessism]

Wire your system like this, and test again. Be sure to bypass the factory wiring, other than the red wire feeding into the fuse box. And check the wire for resistance per the instructions.
If the photo shows the actual condition, with you using a FH020 R/R, you can cross off R/R failure as a possible cause. Those units are bulletproof.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

 

[Mrtoto]

Wire your system like this, and test again. Be sure to bypass the factory wiring, other than the red wire feeding into the fuse box. And check the wire for resistance per the instructions.
If the photo shows the actual condition, with you using a FH020 R/R, you can cross off R/R failure as a possible cause. Those units are bulletproof.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

Thanks for the reply, Tried that build and 0.5 volts drop between + R/R and battery. I'll try to open all my connections and clean all contact.

Some pics of my test.

R/R + go to the Factory plug
R/R - go to the battery -

Using oem stator. 80V between legs
If I disconnect the - stator output from the battery, I have my +13V bike running idle. When connected drop to 12.5v

Someone have picture of a sh775 or like me a fh020 ?

Thanks

 

[pdqford]

Exactly, with a fuse between the battery and the R/R positive jumper wire.​
Is that a glass fuse or a blade fuse.
As Nessism pointed out, disconnect that jumper wire at each end and ohm it.
That fuse may be dropping some voltage.

”f I disconnect from the battery the negative R/R output”
I’m not sure how much voltage that R/R would be able to put out if it was not grounded.

Take a look at Nessism’s picture. If your R/R is hooked up like that, and the bike is running, the main harness would be drawing current away from the battery AND from the R/R. The bike may be pulling more amps from the battery and regulator than they can provide when under load?

Question for the experts: Just because a R/R is producing X volts, how many amps is it providing?

 

[Grimly]

Question for the experts: Just because a R/R is producing X volts, how many amps is it providing?

Depends purely on load. Up to the maximum the stator can supply, which in these old ones isn't all that great, about 15A iirc.

 

[Mrtoto]

That's mean I'm good ? I'll try on road.

 

[Mrtoto]

Hello,

Some update after 2 years ;

Finally I changed my stator again with a 3 yellow wire new model, a new battery, and I kept my FH-020 regulator, finally got my 14.4V at iddle and it is also a maximum value. Great News !

But...


It worked for a few minutes (10min) while driving and suddenly​ no more headlights, no signal indicators...2 fuses Headlight and signal just blow.... replaced it and it blow again in 10sec at iddle.

My wirring :

Stator 3 Yellow wire -> in R/R FH020

R/R FH020 out -> Black to battery
R/R FH020 out -> Red to the + battery and the red wire main harness​

Just like Nessism​ told me.

green/white wire and red/white wire, (not connected to anything)

(Sorry for my english)

Someone have an idea ?

Thank you