GS650E Valve Clearance.

[XTlegend]

Just got around to checking them out:

1 2 3 4

.08-.10 .08-.10 <.04 <.04 Exhaust

<.04 <.04 <.04 .10 Inlet

All tappets rotate fine so the <.04 ones arnt zero

Question is, should I use the bike like this or lay it up until I can get a tool to take the shims out?

Everything looks fine btw - cam chain is tensioned well and no wear visible on the cam lobes despite what I consider to be a noisy top end at times (especially when cold). Cheers.

 

[hampshirehog]

The shims may spin round fine when your engine is cold but the clearances are there to allow for expansion when warm. I'd change the shims as soon as and you don't need the special tool. The zip tie method works fine - check it out on Basscliff's site:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/valve_tool_zip_tie.pdfhttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs850valve_adjust.pdf

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. XTlegend,

With that many clearances below .04mm, I suspect that your engine will become difficult to start cold and start running badly soon. Damage may not occur for a couple thousand miles, but I wouldn't push my luck. As Mr. hampshirehog suggested, go ahead and use the zip tie method (following the instructions carefully so that you don't get zip tie in your cylinders), so that you can find out what shim sizes you now have in the motor. Then you can order the shims you need along with the tool. Do you have a caliper? Sometimes the size marks get worn off the shims.

Personally, I like using the tappet tool but it takes some practice. Many folks have had success using the zip tie method. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[XTlegend]

Thanks for your quick reply's - the engine is difficult to start on cold mornings and choke setting doesnt seem to make much difference. I'll order the tool anyway as I wont be able to do anything now until the weekend at the earliest. Thanks again.

PS I understand why shims are used but am still a fan of screw and locknut type adjusters as on my GN400 !

 

[Steve]

Assuming your .10 measurements are metric, they are slightly larger than spec, but very tolerable. In fact, many of us prefer to be on the larger side of spec, including slightly over.

Yes, use the zip-tie method, it works very well. While you are at it, send me an e-mail with the request and I will send you a copy of my spreadsheet that will help you determine what shims to use, and will also help you keep track of what shims you have in there so you will be ready for next time.

Hard cold starting is a classic symptom of tight valves, especially intakes, and you have 3 of 4 that are tight. Be aware that changing one shim size will take it from the minimum clearance (0.03) to maximum (0.08), so your measurements of <.04 will end up at <.09. Even if they end up at .06 (meaning that they only had .01 before the shim swap), they are well within specs. It would be a bonus if you have some "X" shims in there to play with. They are half-sizes and you can get your clearances more consistent from cylinder to cylinder.

.

 

[Bones]

Hey XTLegend;

I also have a GS650E, and the valve clearences should be between .001-.003 inches or .03-.08 metric.

The intake and exhaust should be the same clearence. I see that some or your clearences are borderline (.08) and some are out of spec (.10). The ones that are <.04 are also questionable.
I would start with getting a set of feeler guages that go down to at least .03 to be sure that the <.04 are not <.03.

I hope this helps.


Bones

 

[XTlegend]

Hey XTLegend;

I also have a GS650E, and the valve clearences should be between .001-.003 inches or .03-.08 metric.

The intake and exhaust should be the same clearence. I see that some or your clearences are borderline (.08) and some are out of spec (.10). The ones that are <.04 are also questionable.
I would start with getting a set of feeler guages that go down to at least .03 to be sure that the <.04 are not <.03.

I hope this helps.


Bones

Cheers for that and great minds think alike as last night I ordered a better set of feeler gauges that go down to .03 and go up to .1mm in .01 steps. This will give me a better picture as to what the current state is.

Got my GS a few months ago for about 450 of your dollars (Canadian import). Its road leagal but has been neglected somewhat and is not original (Seat, exhaust, K&N's etc) though I think there is a decent bike in there somewhere! This chain drive 650 is very rare over here as it was never officially imported. Thanks.

 

[robertbarr]

Most of the work (or at least the tedium, the part that really feels like work) involves cleaning the gasket surfaces. The rest is fairly entertaining, as long as it's not a frequent chore (which it shouldn't be if it's done right), and in all cases, the first time around is the most labor intensive.

I wouldn't consider buttoning up the cam cover on one of these without putting the valve clearances where they belong.

As was mentioned, be sure to keep an accounting of what size shim you have in each bucket. Store this information somewhere, as it will come in very handy on subsequent valve lash checks, when you can usually do a bit of shim swapping (musical chairs) to get the clearances you need, and maybe purchase only a shim or two.

 

[Steve]

As was mentioned, be sure to keep an accounting of what size shim you have in each bucket. Store this information somewhere, as it will come in very handy on subsequent valve lash checks, when you can usually do a bit of shim swapping (musical chairs) to get the clearances you need, and maybe purchase only a shim or two.

Fortunately, most of the tedium of this little task has already been done for you.

While you are at it, send me an e-mail with the request and I will send you a copy of my spreadsheet that will help you determine what shims to use, and will also help you keep track of what shims you have in there so you will be ready for next time.

 

[Bones]

Got my GS a few months ago for about 450 of your dollars (Canadian import). Its road leagal but has been neglected somewhat and is not original (Seat, exhaust, K&N's etc) though I think there is a decent bike in there somewhere! This chain drive 650 is very rare over here as it was never officially imported. Thanks.

I got lucky and didn't have to pay for my dike. My friend works in the landscaping business and aquired this bike from someone who wanted it out of the back yard.

It's nice to have friends.

Bones

 

[XTlegend]

Me again! I just got around to doing the clearances again with a better range of gauges:

1 / 2/ 3/ 4
0.1 yes - 0.13 no / 0.1 yes - 0.13 no/ .04/ .05

.03 / .03/ .03 / 0.1 yes - 0.13 no

The ones that are .1 to .13 mm are closer to .1 than .13 so 0.1 or 0.11.

So they arnt too bad really!

 

[hampshirehog]

You'll need to keep a close eye on the 0.03 clearances as that is the limit. Personally I'd favour changing when the gap hits that low for peace of mind.
The 0.1 clearances are most probably ok but if you like hitting the redline (or beyond - these bikes thrive on it) I think I'd be tempted to see if I could jiggle the shims around to get within the recommended limits.
Although the shims are marked up in 0.05mm steps you'll often find when you measure them that they are +/- 1 or 2 100ths and you can get your settings bang in the middle.

Whereabouts are you in Surrey? I'm just over the Hants border near Farnham.

 

[XTlegend]

You'll need to keep a close eye on the 0.03 clearances as that is the limit. Personally I'd favour changing when the gap hits that low for peace of mind.
The 0.1 clearances are most probably ok but if you like hitting the redline (or beyond - these bikes thrive on it) I think I'd be tempted to see if I could jiggle the shims around to get within the recommended limits.
Although the shims are marked up in 0.05mm steps you'll often find when you measure them that they are +/- 1 or 2 100ths and you can get your settings bang in the middle.

Whereabouts are you in Surrey? I'm just over the Hants border near Farnham.

Cheers for that - I'm just off the A30 at Englefield Green?