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Head gasket needs replaced what else while I'm there?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nilson
  • Start date Start date
N

Nilson

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I have noticed that I have a slight air leak in my head gasket on my 1981 GS450L while warming up.
When I get around to replacing that what else should I do while I'm "there" with the engine out and tore down to that point?

I have no idea how long it has been or what else has been done on it.

Thanks
 
How many miles are on the engine? has it been pushing any blue smoke on start up or while riding it?
 
It has around 20,000 on the engine. It pushes some whitish smoke, perhaps a bit bluish on start up with the choke all the way up for a min or two.
 
Likely your valve stem seals are gone, order those and really rings aren't too much you might want to consider doing those as well since you have it all apart, but of course you might find the ones you have well within spec. once you start measuring everything in there. What ever you do make sure you order nothing more than OEM Suzuki for the gaskets/seals.
 
What do you mean by "slight air leak"? This time of year (cold and damp) it is common for there to be some white to bluish smoke on warm up as water condensation in the pipe vaporizes.

Unless you have noticeable oil consumption, or oil fouled sparkplugs, it is usually not worth the effort/expense to fix it. I'd check the torque on the cylinder stud nuts first. 20K is not that much on these old bikes.
 
At warm up I notice a small amount of exhaust coming from the head gasket by cam chain tensioned.
That is what I mean by small leak.
 
If you are going to remove the head gasket, be advised that you WILL disturb the cylinders and mess up the base gasket, so plan on changing that, too.

By the way, you can do all that without removing the engine from the frame. :-\\\

.
 
AND before you remote the cylinders, Clean the crap out between the cylinders.

When you pull the head up, dirt will drop into the engine from the 4 middle studs since they are open to the
Sand will gather in the little pockets where the studs go through and will be the first thing to drop down when you lift the cylinders up.


So pick at it. Blow it out , vacuum, what ever you have to do to get the crap out.

Also before you start do a compression check just for the hell of it so you know what your starting with.

Lap the valves while your in there as well.
 
AND before you remote the cylinders, Clean the crap out between the cylinders.

When you pull the head up, dirt will drop into the engine from the 4 middle studs since they are open to the
Sand will gather in the little pockets where the studs go through and will be the first thing to drop down when you lift the cylinders up.


So pick at it. Blow it out , vacuum, what ever you have to do to get the crap out.

Also before you start do a compression check just for the hell of it so you know what your starting with.

Lap the valves while your in there as well.

What he said, the only way I have found to remove cylinders without dumping the rust and dirt inside the engine is to turn it on it's end so it's not downhill to fall into the cylinders. No matter how much you clean, the crud between the center studs won't come loose until the cylinder lifts up, by then it's too late.

Don't think I've ever gotten cylinders off without spilling crap down into the cases except by turning it on it's end.
 
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