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Head removal ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Russ' GS1000E
  • Start date Start date
R

Russ' GS1000E

Guest
I have all the nuts off the head, mercifully without breaking anything,
but the head seems stuck-fast to the block.

Used a rubber mallet to no avail.

Help, hints? Figured I'd find similar in a search....:(

Yes, 8 nuts, 4 acorns, and 3 bolts. ( 1 in front and one on each end)
 
Last edited:
On some models there is an external bolt at the front of the head where it meets the block. See if you have one.
 
Some others have had the same problem - just a case of properly applied force

I used a piece of 1" x 2" at the corners and center and hit that with a dead blow hammer

This degree of adhesion means you'll have to pull the barrels also


And, tie up the cam chain to save yourself some time later on
 
Billy Ricks said:
On some models there is an external bolt at the front of the head where it meets the block. See if you have one.
Click to expand...
Just saw your edit, looks like you got the one that runs from the block upwards into the head.
 
If you look in the factory service manual they use a special tool to pry the head loose against the cylinder. The parts have special slots that the tool can pry against without breaking off any fins. Obviously, finding a tool like that is difficult but look for the pry points and don't bang on the fins or you will risk snapping some of them off. You can get the head loose without breaking anyting if you pry carefully.
 
throw the cam chain into the bottom end....no biggie.
remove the head and cylinders and then take a couple equal length pieces of wood and put in the end cylinders.
have someone hold the head while you lift and drop the assy. against the wood pieces while holding the cylinders.
the head will then separate from the cylinder.
oh,
as for the cam chain i said to toss out of the way...
its call a stick or flexible magnet..reaches right down into the bottom end and retrieves the cam chain.
don't sweat the small stuff.:)
note:
the cam chain on GS's will not fall off of the crank sprocket like a 900/1000 kawi...no worries.
 
Last edited:
Thanks everybody !

I have time on my side, so it will come apart! :-\\\

I checked the factory service manual I have downloaded,
but I don't see pry points listed.

So far the motor work has been fun....:)
 
Last edited:
Be patient, and you will get it.

I have some plastic "scrapers" that look like chisels. I got them from HF for a few bucks. I drove one of these into the edge of the head gasket, and that got mine loose.
 
Got the head off tonight.

I used a rubber mallet as a buffer and a big hammer as the force.
Struck on the Intake side outside, and top front of the outside of the head. Both areas look reinforced in the fins.

My first look at any used cylinder, but I think they look good.
Is that still cross-hatching I see?

Where do I find a Valve Spring Compressor?
 
Looks pretty good. You got lucky if they all look that way.:)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessism
Looks pretty good. You got lucky if they all look that way.:)

+1. Might want to run a quick ball hone through there to knock off any glaze before reassembling.
Click to expand...
Yes, hone for sure, at a minimum. I do like the dingleberry (ball) hones.
Does one of our site sponsers sell the right size?

Been fighting with the cylinder block this morning.
1/4" up off the base so far.


Cool !! A Valve spring tool viddy. :) The one at Autozone for $20 didn't look like it would work.
 
Russ' GS1000E said:
Yes, hone for sure, at a minimum. I do like the dingleberry (ball) hones.
Does one of our site sponsers sell the right size?

Been fighting with the cylinder block this morning.
1/4" up off the base so far.


Cool !! A Valve spring tool viddy. :) The one at Autozone for $20 didn't look like it would work.
Click to expand...

Crud gets down into the stud holes and makes removing the cylinder a pain sometimes.

Regarding that ball hone, we don't have any site sponsors here (good thing) so you might want to search using google. I need to get one too so please post your search results so I can leach off your hard work.:D
 
This will do a fine job also.
Available at Sears and most Automotive stores.
I believe, that you want a 120 degree cross-patten for best sealing. Ray?

DSC02077.jpg


Eric ;)
 
Nessism said:
No disrespect to Eric but the dingoball type is better for used cylinders since there are invariably going to be low spots and those flat bar hones skip over those areas.

Regarding where to purchase, Goodson is a good source... http://www.goodson.com/store/templa...?NID=645&SID=52758e95291198f1db47bf2a07e7f9bb

Anyone know what grit to use? I'm thinking 180 or 240?
Click to expand...

No disrepect to Ed but, if you are skipping over low spots,
you need a bore job.
Not a freshening up. ;)

Eric
 
Rick65Cat said:
X2 ;)
If you got "low spots" wouldn't it be smoking?
Click to expand...

The dingoball hone is the proper tool. Yes, there will be low spots but not enough to cause problems assuming the cylinder is still within the service limit. Straight hones are going to skip over spots and are better if the cylinder has been freshly bored, but for a used cylinder you just want to deglaze for installing new rings, use the dingoball.
 
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