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Heck for 3 weeks so far.

B

Big Block

Forum Apprentice
Super Site Supporter
This has been going on for 3 weeks so far. I think I'll conclude it this week hopefully. I was so happy to find a skunk tank, it was pretty decent but my fault I didn't notice it had a liner in it. Liner was failed of course. Ordered $125 of MEK and that hardly helped, ran $40 of Acetone through it, that helped. Finally found a rad shop 2.5 hours away that stilll has a tank. So I ran it over there, told him I didn't care about the paint and leave it in as long as it takes. He called me to come and get it as it was as good as it was going to get. IMO he should have left it in longer but he didn't (remember this was 2 x 5 hour round trips so far). So I'm still throwing Acetone in and shaking the poop out of it with the drywall screws going for a ride. Fortunately the liner is slightly magnetic with the rust on the back of it so it makes it easy to pick the loose chunks out with a magnet. I'd say 80% of the liner is gone but it has to be 100% gone in prep for the new Caswell liner.
After tonights sitting I'll be heating whats left from the outside to loosen it (if the heat warps the metal a bit I'll just bodywork it). After that if necessary I'm filling it with water and cutting the bottom off of it and I'll hand sand the rest off. (I don't want to do that as I'd have to weld a 3/8" flange around the perimiter so I could run my spot welds into it to join the 2 pieces back together.
As of now I've got the price of the tank, price of the waiting Caswell and the other chemicals, rad shop bill etc.
So this will be a $1000 tank on a $3000 motorcycle, plus paint and stripes of course.
 

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I have used a large propane torch designed to kill weeds in fence rows on a couple of tanks. It gets all of the liner out really quickly! Of course, you have a bare metal tank when finished, but it's the quickest, cheapest way that I have found to remove failed tank liner.
 
Do what i do when paints non issue. Couple cinder blocks and scrap twigs or whatever and fire it up. Rinse ashes out and do your regular prep. RO sander and 220 grit will polish up the outside real quick after the BBQ. Somewhere i had a rebuild thread with pics of a tank roasting.
 
Yup: Propane will my friend on this one i think. The chemicals have loosened what's left so it'll be quick tomorrow I think. I have some 10 gauge wire I've been scratching off what I can as well but that's hard to do and you can only see what you can see. which is half the problem.
 
This is what I used on my last one!
5a3j8TZ.jpeg


Works great!
 
Did you get any warpage? I don't care as I'll just fix it but curious.
I'll NEVER get into this again, and when I do I'll just go straight to heat.
Chuck I did a search on your heating technique a couple weeks ago but my search words didn't turn anything up. I'll put an end to this pretty soon though. One upside is I only soldered maybe 10 pinholes, I expected it to be a lot more.
 
I looked for pics too but the forum has removed them. Basically i laid tank as close to its ends across 2 cement blocks and fired some brush up under it. Watched till smoke stopped coming out the filler neck. No warpage or damage incurred
 
The warpage was not detectable. I got the idea from Chuck's bonfire post from long ago.

I use the torch because I had it and it's easier than me trying to start a fire! I just heat it until the smoke stops, and then acid out the inside, then work on the exterior.

It's saved me a bunch of time over the years!

Here is the link to the original post by Chuck. Look on page #3.
chuck hahn

Thread 'Blue 78 1000C project'

Well after 6 years in storage I drug the boxes of parts out and hauled the carcass home. Pics will follow at some point.
 
Thing with a torch it gtrs hotter in spots as you wave the flame around. Bonfire is even all the way around. Yes the outside gets dirty from the smoke but a sander quickly removes all that. And just let it cool naturally without spraying with water
 
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